Need to change my cambelt on my TZD

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 1:37 pm

There is a lot to be said for the advice (which may come from Haynes) which is having got the belt on and timed properly and the tensioner tightened to turn the engine over a couple of times and then make sure that with the flywheel locked the bolts go in the pump and the camshaft.

On mine the most difficult part was getting the plastic covers back on!

BX_dizwol · Post by **BX_dizwol** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 2:36 pm

Well it was 1 tooth out on the pump and cam, retarded too so thats why then engine sounded soft and put loads of smoke out. There is a little movement in the pulleys with the bolts in, i found that having the moved as much clock wise as possible made sure that the belt would go on in the right position.

Took a little starting as i had change the fuel filter too, after a jump from a bigger battery is jumped into life, spewing smoke out from the previous days futile running!

Tomorrow i shall do the oils and flush the rad.

Here is why its worth changing the belt at the correct intervals, mine was at its 48K mile limit, but its been 7 years since the last change, hence the poor condition -

Dont leave it too long kids!

Cheers for the assistance guys, really appreciate it!

J

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 3:59 pm

Curiously mine had been on for 7 years but had only done about 37, 000 miles and looked like new! Anyway its changed now so I feel safe!

Glad you've found the problem and all is now OK.

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:04 pm

Trust me I KNOW what happens when a belt lets go

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:50 am

I hope this post is still alive, apologies if im asking something already covered, its 3am and im not reading the whole post!

I ve been slowly putting back the TZD after a complete head change and waterpump change.

I put the timing belt back on after a long wrestle with the tensioner, though I was a bit concerned with the slack between the cam sproket and injector sprocket.

Once it was all back on I took out the M8 bolts from the sprokets, and the 8mm drill from the frywheel, set it in 5th, gave the wheel a spin and . . . CLUNk, no turn.

The tension between the sprokets, suddenly was fantastic but the timing is dodgy. I tried to put the pins back in. Cambelt sproket was aligned, but both the injector sproket and flywheel pin are miss aligned. . .

what now?

How can I re align the flywheel and injectors and reset the timing? Im lost on this one . . .

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:35 pm

Turn the engine a quarter of a turn (crankshaft) using a spanner on the crank pulley, probably backwards, this will leave all pistons halfway down the bores and allow you to turn the cam to the right position, I always turn the engine over twice using a socket on the crank and refit pins to ensure timing is ok, it is worth letting the tensioner go again too as slack will have been redistributed.
Stewart

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:13 am

Did that, worked perfectly.

The cam sproket isnt aligned properly when its turned and pinned, it needs truning backwards slightly, then pulling forward until the pin goes in. It seems like hardly any distance, but it makes the belt fin on properly (with a bit of pushing in the teeth) with more tension.

Spun it twice and the bolts went in.

The engines coming back together nicely, Im waiting on a new themostat, then shes done.

When putting gaskets back on, is it worth putting a film of high temp silcone on all the sides?

thanks for the help!

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 9:42 pm

I’ve just had a go at doing the cambelt and have come across a problem

when i tried to slacken the timing belt tensioner is was stuck fast and would move

After an hour of poking about I ran out of patience

cut the belt though and guess what happened

Nothing !! It only moves about a half an inch but it can’t be moved back

What now ?

Post by **docchevron** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:33 am

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but have you undone both the lock bolt, and the pinch nut??

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 5:29 pm

otherwise you'll have to whip off the engine mount and pull the plunger out as it might have corroded in place. But i've never seen it happen, and i've pulled apart an engine in the scrap yard which was rusty all over (looked like it had been parked in the sea), cut the belt off and the tensioner pinged straight out! I'm not sure they do corrode, best check them bolts!

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 5:47 pm

Hi Vanny

i've had the mount off and the plunger has corroded in place.

but i have got it out and am cleaning it up and will be fitting back in place so i can get the new cambelt and waterpump in place

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 9:48 pm

now that is a PITA, always assumed it would happen but never actually seen it! Reconstruction with Copper slip is probably the way to go, that way it shouldnt corrode again. Personally i no longer have any problems getting the plunger in/belt on, but it is rather fiddly and takes practise to find a method thats easy to manage!

Best of luck!

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:15 pm

Hi Vanny

i posted a new tread on this but maybe i should ad it here so that any one with same problem can see it too

after cutting through the timing belt in order to remove it

I managed to remove the tensioner and mount and found that the plunger was very stuck

so i took RichardW advice:

RichardW wrote: The (some heat should do it - just make sure you are not stood in the way in case the spring fires the piston out )

with a little heat (boiling water from a kettle) it shot out with a bang

good advice richard

the plunger was very grotty

this is what it looked like after a little wire brushing

i've now cleaned it up and put it back together with a bit of copper grease and refited it with the new timing belt and water pump

it's the first time that I have done a cambelt on a Bx

now I know what it's like to do keyhole surgery

all running nicely now

ellevie · Post by **ellevie** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:08 pm

Thanks to Adam's dad for this excellent tip. A junior hacksaw with the blade removed makes a perfect tool for locking the flywheel. You would be hard pressed to design a more suitable tool for the job.

Install the 3 locking pins in the sprocket holes first in order to bring the flywheel hole into approximate alignment, then tweak the crankshaft pulley with a spanner or socket until the leg of the saw goes all the way into the hole.

view from above

view from below

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:10 pm

Hello everyone,

I will finally have a crack at changing the cambelt on my TD in a few days, and this thread gave me some difficulties while reading it. I'm not a native speaker and though I understand quite a bit of english, all those technical terms don't make much sense to me in english and the dictionary gives me like 30 possible meanings for every word. Actually Google Images makes for better translations

it often helps to remove fuel pump locking pin and slightly rotate pump clockwise before putting the belt on its pulley to get all slack out of the front run

What do you mean by "fuel pump locking pin"? And what about the diesel pump?

Yep, all you need are 3 x M8 bolts, one for the cam pulley, and 2 for the pump, then a suitable drill or similar to go through the block and the hole in the flywheel. For the sake of 5 mins, unbolt the starter motor, and you will see the hole in the block, it will be much easier

Why do I "need" 3xM8 bolts? I guess they already are in place, I just remove them and reattach them later, right? What is meant by "a suitable drill"? Do I get this right: That there's a deep hole in the middle of the flywheel and I have to remove it with a long socket to get the flywheel off and remove the belt?

Finally, when the belt is fitted and retensioned, remove all the pins (I usually cable tie the pins with bright coloured cable ties to ensure this!!!!)

What pins? Why remove them, where did they come from all of a sudden? Do I need to place some pins there to lock the flywheel?

And another question:
Regarding the timing, is it possible to just paint marks everywhere on the pulleys and the engine block to just refit everything the way it was before taking of the belt or isn't that working. Also, to set the timings manually, is there something like this on the BX?

I took this picture from a Toyota Tacoma How-To, where the pulleys are aligned to those numbers to set the timing right. Is that the way it's done on a BX?

And what the heck is that "plunger" thing?
And I always thought I'd need a torque wrench somewhere in this process, isn't that true?

Anyways, this is all a bit confusing, I guess I'll try my luck and get going. If I disassemble all those things, I guess I will understand how everything works.
Is there anything where I need to be careful when removing it, as it would be difficult to refit?

Any help would be appreciated!