I should know. I thoughtat first it was a doseur but it ain't. Height corrector? Regulator? Realise I haven't done enough hydraulic jobs yet ( not that I want to)
Mystery bit
What is this and is it worth €150?
What is this and is it worth €150?
Todd
this yellow writing is really hard to read
this yellow writing is really hard to read
Its a Flow divider Valve aka FDV for power steering.
As for the price erm yea thats a bit high if you have to do an FDV anytime soon theres a good guide on here on doing a refurb for less than new.
As for the price erm yea thats a bit high if you have to do an FDV anytime soon theres a good guide on here on doing a refurb for less than new.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91
- Aerodynamica
- BXpert
- Posts: 793
- Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:43 pm
- Location: Glasgow
I wonder what the advantage to buying a new one is if we knw you can fairly easily overhaul it?
I did wonder about the 2 springs in my recent FDV project - how would you know if they'd gone weak? maybe it doesn't matter.
I, perhaps would replace this with a new one if I had the wedge for it but of course, I'd have to repaint it in the PROPER green paint for an early days BX
I did wonder about the 2 springs in my recent FDV project - how would you know if they'd gone weak? maybe it doesn't matter.
I, perhaps would replace this with a new one if I had the wedge for it but of course, I'd have to repaint it in the PROPER green paint for an early days BX
Graeme M
CX 2400 Pallas LPG
2CV6 dolly (SORNed)
Mk1 Xantia 1.9TD SX
'c'est hydropneumatique'
CX 2400 Pallas LPG
2CV6 dolly (SORNed)
Mk1 Xantia 1.9TD SX
'c'est hydropneumatique'
- cauchoiskev
- BXpert
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:36 am
- Location: France
- DLM
- Our Trim Guru
- Posts: 1620
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:41 pm
- Location: Gosport, Hampshire, UK
- My Cars: Historically, lots of BX hatches/estates in the 90s/00s - 16/19i/17td/19d
Recent scruffy diesel n/a estate - "The Red Shed" - is no longer mine. - x 9
Many thanks for the info, cauchoiskev. So that's about £36 or 42 Euros?
I know in theory that even the most horribly mangled bearing housing can be bored-out and a suitably-machined insert pressed-in, but it does require access to a reasonably well-equipped engineering workshop, or someone willing to do it for you.
That's a bit of a sweeping statement - about radius arms.... from the point or view of opportunity and availability.Job well worth doing, I've never known one to be irremediably shafted - a bit like radius arms.
I know in theory that even the most horribly mangled bearing housing can be bored-out and a suitably-machined insert pressed-in, but it does require access to a reasonably well-equipped engineering workshop, or someone willing to do it for you.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
- cauchoiskev
- BXpert
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:36 am
- Location: France
Yep, 36 quid. Was only 20 a few years back.
As for the radius arms, I've never seen one damaged where the bearing sits. It's only at at seal end that the damage occurs (this is only my own experience, if anybody has seen different I would be interested to know...).
I just fill up the gap between the seal and the metal with joint compound, after careful degreasing. I've done this twice on my own cars, never had any problems since. Somebody posted recently about using body filler, nice idea too, maybe a bit more fiddly to get right than Loctite joint paste.
As for the radius arms, I've never seen one damaged where the bearing sits. It's only at at seal end that the damage occurs (this is only my own experience, if anybody has seen different I would be interested to know...).
I just fill up the gap between the seal and the metal with joint compound, after careful degreasing. I've done this twice on my own cars, never had any problems since. Somebody posted recently about using body filler, nice idea too, maybe a bit more fiddly to get right than Loctite joint paste.