Ok guys... I'm going to need some help on this one. We're pretty sure that it wasn't damaged during installation, but I suppose it is possible.
However, one of the pipes was jubilee-clipped on to the octopus - I can see now that this is not a good sign, and does support the knackered strut theory, so... I need to test things, and here's where the questions start:
1: Given the octopus is now more like a prawn salad, it's not much use for anything. Do I need it (for testing)?
2: How much LHM should be coming out when the car is just idling, with no steering/brake or height input? Is more than a few drops here and there from a strut an indication of failure? It really does P!ss LHM. We turn it off sharpish, but I'd suggest that > 1litre/min wouldn't be impossible...
3: If strut(s) are toast, has anyone got any available that aren't? I can't afford Pleiades recon prices, and even if I could I'm not sure I could justify spending that much on the car given that there's been some much tidier cars around for not much more money...
I'm really stuck with this one guys. Hydraulic issues aside it will need a respray, the paint is crap in many places, especially as I need to replace 2 doors...
Part of me says cut my losses, break it for parts, sell the rest to the scrap metal dealer, use the money to put towards restoring the CX TRS for Wetherby, and look for another BX when I have more money and less things to spend it on....
...on the other hand, I feel really sorry for the car and the way it's been passed around and sometimes neglected during the process (not pointing fingers at anyone in particular - I can see it has had some money spent on it from the paperwork I have). I'd like to fix it up and have it in the club, looked after as I feel it deserves.
As an added problem, I need it off Graham's drive (either because it is on the road or scrapped) because I need the space to fix the CX TRS, which has only tax until the end of April, so there is not much time, and a fixed deadline...
So, what do you guys think I should do?
It's here! My 1987 19TRS Auto.
- rayfenwick
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Ray
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1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
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The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
- mat_fenwick
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- rayfenwick
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A good plan, but it'll still be there next morning, resplendent in its shimmering puddle....mat_fenwick wrote:rayfenwick wrote:So, what do you guys think I should do?
Well that would be most generous, and I'd be very grateful, except if I did put them on the car that would make things rather permanent, wouldn't it? What would I do if you required them back? I think if I do replace struts it would have to be on a permanent basis.mat_fenwick wrote:Failing that I have some useable, but not ideal struts for a potential loan (they're my spares).
First thing I need to do is test the struts I have - can someone write a quick idiots guide?
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
As I already posted.rayfenwick wrote: First thing I need to do is test the struts I have - can someone write a quick idiots guide?
If you set the height lever to intermediate there really should be nothing coming out of the strut returns. It still should be the case when the ignition is turned off.Way2go wrote:As Dollywobbler says the problem could still be the struts. Are the returns zip tied? (they shouldn't be)
Disconnect the front strut returns pipes where they attach at the pipe ends and run the car, there should be next to no fluid coming out of them. Any flow from either shows strut seal failure.
If fluid comes out of the metal pipes when open then that is probably back flow from the rear struts indicating a failure there.
However in normal with the engine running there should be no leakage but some may be seen on this setting on turning the engine off when the car settles.
1991 BX19GTi Auto
- rayfenwick
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Sorry, I didn't want to give the impression I was ignoring you
I just wasn't sure I could test the returns without an octopus fitted. It now makes sense that I can.
Forgive my noobity - I'll return the favour if you ever need a Beolink AV installation, or your 12 string restrung
I'll try to test things tomorrow - assuming it's not raining or having a hurricane outside.... I'll post results.
I just wasn't sure I could test the returns without an octopus fitted. It now makes sense that I can.
Forgive my noobity - I'll return the favour if you ever need a Beolink AV installation, or your 12 string restrung
I'll try to test things tomorrow - assuming it's not raining or having a hurricane outside.... I'll post results.
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
- rayfenwick
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Today I managed to do some examination of what's going on with struts etc. Although I'm fairly crap at this sort of stuff, Graham and I have reached the conclusion that it is neither front or back suspension causing the problem - with the returns off there is but a few drops a minute from these components. In fact, there doesn't seem to be a p!ssing from anywhere as there was before.
This is good, as it basically cements what you have all been saying - that it's too good to scrap. If it isn't struts, it's now economically viable as far as I can see.
Now we have to find out: why the octopus split/exploded, and where the p!ssing LHM came from. If we somehow connected the octopus incorrectly, could this cause the symptoms I've described? Where do we go from here? I'm sure many of you could sort it in 10 minutes, and wonder why I'm such a spaz </politically incorrect>...
Once again, over to you guys...
This is good, as it basically cements what you have all been saying - that it's too good to scrap. If it isn't struts, it's now economically viable as far as I can see.
Now we have to find out: why the octopus split/exploded, and where the p!ssing LHM came from. If we somehow connected the octopus incorrectly, could this cause the symptoms I've described? Where do we go from here? I'm sure many of you could sort it in 10 minutes, and wonder why I'm such a spaz </politically incorrect>...
Once again, over to you guys...
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
Don't be too quick to rule them out if you've only tested them statically! You've got to do some dynamic testing as the flow could be more at different parts of the bore.rayfenwick wrote:Today I managed to do some examination of what's going on with struts etc. Although I'm fairly crap at this sort of stuff, Graham and I have reached the conclusion that it is neither front or back suspension causing the problem - with the returns off there is but a few drops a minute from these components. In fact, there doesn't seem to be a p!ssing from anywhere as there was before.
Attach a jar to the front returns in a position it won't get crushed and then try some citerobics a few times with the height control. Then examine the leakage quantities in the jars to see whether one has become excessive.
1991 BX19GTi Auto
- rayfenwick
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I can see the logic in that, and it will need doing. We had p!ssing whilst static, and now don't, so we're confused as to where all the p!ssing was coming from. I think we must have screwed up the octopus installation, but looking at it I can't see how getting a couple of hoses transposed would cause the octopus to split, keep blowing hoses off prior to splitting...
I've taken refuge in cleaning the stripped out CX interior, and helping my brother with the welding - it seems easier!
I've taken refuge in cleaning the stripped out CX interior, and helping my brother with the welding - it seems easier!
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk