Pluto's '92 BX19TGD Estate - Let the resto begin!

[Pluto]

Hi all, as a new member I thought I would introduce myself (and the car as soon as I figure out how to upload pictures)! This BX used to belong to my dad who sold it 14 years ago before emigrating to the states. The guy he sold it to dry stored it for the entire time he owned it and never drove it. It still has the same diesel in it from 14 years ago! He contacted me about a month ago to see if i would like to buy it! Amazingly, with a new battery it started first pull. As my dad passed away 6 years ago this car has massive sentimental value to me, so it's my mission to get it back to factory fresh condition as a rolling resto and complete my dad's goal of getting it to 250k! It's currently done 174k. I'll be picking some brains along the way, but I hope to have her back on the road in the next 3 or 4 weeks. MOT booked on Tuesday, that should at least give me a starting point to work on!!

Mechanically the car doesn't present me with any problems to work on, but I'm totally unfamiliar with the hydraulic system. I'm thinking of getting the whole system re-piped and basically overhauled to work like new. Are there any independant specialists that anyone can recommend on the south coast near chichester area? Thanks in advance for all your help!!

[Tinkley]

Welcome to the Forum and Club.

My own approach to a 'new' BX ie second hand is something along the following, but it will be a bit model dependent. Firstly the rubber parts will be old, this means cooling hoses, brake flexys' (only 2!) cambelt, hydraulic pump belt, alternator belt etc etc. Cambelt should be changed asap if it has one, which I believe the diesel does...

Drain cooling system and check radiator, if clean refill with 50/50 deionised water and anti freeze. If dirty, really clean out any crud in the rad. It appears that our hard southern water lets more scale and rubbish build up if tap water is used

As for the hydraulics, i would suggest replacing all 5 spheres, don't ignore the Accumulator one, and the front strut suspension returns. It's actually pretty simple to do, but you may need a good chain wrench/strap for the rear spheres. Drain and refill with nice new fluid the LHM reservoir and bleed all four brake positions till new clean fluid comes through. It will be worth checking the 'Octopus' and 'Little Octopus' or 'Squid' which are multi rubber tube returns for leaks/perishing in the system which generally last around 14-20 years. If you have a ramp or pit the former is easier to change - approx 2 hours for a pro on a lift.

After that I'd check the rear arm bearings, replace if needed. Worth seeing if 'clonks' on the front - drop links. Obviously you have at least 14 year old tyres.... Brakes and pads are straight forward though you must adhere to handbrake set up, slightly different to most vehicles. Stay Bendix if you can.

So pretty much like any old car apart from the hydraulics. Key thing is that despite what many say about the #complex' hydraulics, they are actually fairly simple. As for repiping, that depends on the condition of the pipes, mainly the front to rear 4 pipe run. If it is repiped, you will need a lot of 3.5mm Cunifer piping, maybe some 4.5 depending on just how far you go. The pipes may well be OK, check over the top of the rear subframe which is the main corrosion point. Also check the metal fuel pipes which run just inside the o/s sill.

Actually not too bad if you just go through it in a fairly straight forward way. Good luck, if you get really stuck for re-piping I know a guy locally who can do it, I'm in N Hants about 40 minutes from Chichester. I'm sure others can advise more on the details on the diesels and other quirks of your particular model.

[Pluto]

Hi Tinkley,

Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed reply, that really helps! I'm hoping to get stuck in this weekend and cambelt is first on the list! I don't have a pit or ramps but I think I'll be investing in some. The only thing I can say for sure, is after scrabbling around underneath it when it was on its high setting (with axle stands for back up of course!) I cant find even a spec of rust or corrosion anywhere which amazed me. At least I know I'm starting with a solid car!

I'll have a better idea of the condition of all the rubber pipes etc once I get stuck in , but I want to change them all for piece of mind. I'm planning on doing some long trips in this when it's all done so don't want it failing on me in the middle of nowhere!

Is it best to go straight to citroen to buy all the parts for the hydraulic system (sphears, octopus etc) or are there other company's producing high quality aftermarket parts?

Thanks again, I'll keep updating my progress once I make a start!

Cheers

[Tinkley]

Personally I am using the IFHS spheres from AEP in Glasgow as they are fresh (date wise) and seem to work well. Good price too. The front strut returns are best from a Citroen dealer as the GSF ones are complete rubbish grade rubber. The Octopus and Little Octopus may be available elsewhere as good original grade rubber otherwise again Citroen can supply - now Polish made but seem good quality. Pipng is a bit more hit and miss AFAIK you can have stuff made by Pleides or a good local tech in Cunifer (NOT copper), and a few replacements are available through the good people at Chevronics in Hitchin, or Malcolm Lockwood. Seals and 'screws' are certainly available from the hydraulic expert places.

You (for now) just need to check there are no LHM leaks and be aware of the fact that the rubber will be at least part perished. I'd be tempted to do the front strut returns anyway as these get a lot of flexing. It is unusual to get a complete loss of fluid in one hit from a leak back rubber pipe, usually it is gradual so a bottle of LHM will get you home!. A hole in a pressure pipe is a bit different!.

Cambelts etc (Dayco, Continental etc)are available from a number of factors such as Euro Car parts, GSF etc etc so not yet a problem. Timing belt kits too with water pump amd idler. Again for some things like brake pads GSF had the Bendix pads in stock, at least earlier this year. LHM is widely available, usually cheaper in factors, but dealers not too bad either. Drop links, I've used the First Line ones ( AEP and Euro).

Make sure you fully chock the car in the air with stands, wooden blocks etc partly because when you need to let pressure out the system (and you will at some time) you don't want to risk it falling on you. As the late 'Citronut' would tell you, people have been killed working underneath these cars...
They are light cars by modern standards but just don't take chances at all. BTW if you did not know the handbrake is on the front wheels.... Fuel economy should be 50-60 mpg. For tyres I personally like the Michelin Energy (they still seem to suit the car, and nice steering weight) but everyone has a different opinion.
Hopefully one of the diesel experts on here will give specific details on those motors. I am surprised you have only set sights on 250k, round here I have one (diesel estate) with in excess of 520k......

[Pluto]

Can't thank you enough for the advice! I feel like I know where to start now. After a lifetime of working on/rebuilding motorcycles this is all a bit alien to me.

As for the 250k benchmark, I didn't fully realise just how many miles these cars were realistically able to do. I thought the current 174k was high, but it seems that it's not even run in yet! A good thing too, as I don't ever plan on selling her! I'll start with the 250k mark, then maybe set my own goal from there.

No doubt I'll have a load more questions as I go through, so I'm sure I'm going to owe a few people on here a few by the time I'm done!

I'll definitely get some pictures of her up this weekend.
Thanks again

[Tim Leech]

Welcome aboard, understand the sentiment for your dad, I still have my old man's xantia although he passed away 16 years ago!

Good luck with the car, tinkleys covered pretty much everything so have fun! Cambelt first!

[Pluto]

Tomorrow I can finally start working on her! This is how she looks at the moment, I'll start trying to wash off 14 years worth of dust and crud tomorrow!

[rutter123]

250k is easy done providing your engine has not been cooked and has had regular oil changes, the XUD7/9 engine are simple non complexed all mechanical units with no fancy ecu's to go wrong. If you are changing the cambelt do the water pump as well and prob the tensioner, only use quality belts i always use Gates. Cheap water pumps are rubbish. Caution when working on hydraulics very high pressure, never work under an unpropped bx they can drop suddenly. Looks like a tidy car there good luck with progress.
I have a nice t/d engine/box that would fit nicely into that, and add 30bhp to boot.

[Pluto]

250k is easy done providing your engine has not been cooked and has had regular oil changes, the XUD7/9 engine are simple non complexed all mechanical units with no fancy ecu's to go wrong. If you are changing the cambelt do the water pump as well and prob the tensioner, only use quality belts i always use Gates. Cheap water pumps are rubbish. Caution when working on hydraulics very high pressure, never work under an unpropped bx they can drop suddenly. Looks like a tidy car there good luck with progress.
I have a nice t/d engine/box that would fit nicely into that, and add 30bhp to boot.

Thanks for the advice, I may well be interested in the t/d lump. . . .
Ill concentrate on getting the car mot'd as is for now and see where I go from there. Until I've had her out on the road I'm not sure what the current 70bhp is going to feel like. I was 18 the last time I went passenger in this car and I can't remember the performance at all. It might be just what I need to slow me down!

[kernowtim]

I have a 1992 1.9 TXD estate with 239K miles, still running well but has a few lhm and oil leaks still to sort, Performance wise 70 bhp is good for 70mph all day on motorway, its the hills you notice the (lack of ) power, and the rather slow acceleration ..
all the best with your restoration,really must start on mine, only had it 1 year now!!!

[Defender110]

Doesn't look like it needs too much of a "Resto" to me, very nice and my own personal favourite spec; white TGD.

[Pluto]

Doesn't look like it needs too much of a "Resto" to me, very nice and my own personal favourite spec; white TGD.

Cosmetically it's actually pretty good, a good T-cut and polish should see the bodywork looking good for now. The dark grey/black around the windows is very faded and the roof bars could do with a fresh coat of paint. Apart from that is all mechanical/hydraulic related. Not too much to do hopefully!

After changing the cam belt and doing a basic fluids service, she is off for an MOT tomorrow! Be interested to see how it goes after sitting for such a long time. The last issued MOT in 2001 showed three advisories - we shall see! I'm just looking forward to actually being able to legally drive her on the road tomorrow, even if it is only the 6 miles to the MOT garage.