What would you do first?

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BXcitro
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What would you do first?

Post by BXcitro »

I've recently purchased a 1991 BX TZD Turbo with only 81000 miles on the clock.

I'm not going to be using it as my daily as I want to keep the mileage low so it's just a 'weekend' car.

Some jobs are in need of doing, which are as follows:-

Rear arm bearings - clonks a bit when going round corners and occasionally hear a high pitched squeal.

Spheres and LHM change - Looking at some old invoices, seems like they haven't been changed since 2005! Still soft ride (harder at the back) it's only done 20k in 10 years. I did check the LHM today and it looks more yellow than green.

A service - The oil was last changed in 2013 but it's only done 1000 miles since then.

Cambelt and waterpump was changed last month so that's all ok.

What order do you think I should get those jobs done? I know they're all important but can only afford to do bit by bit. A Citroen specialist will be doing the work for me.

Thanks
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by rutter123 »

If you are doing the rear arm bearings you may as well change the rear spheres at same time, the spheres dont have to come off to remove the rear arms but whilst its up in the air.......
The high pitched squeal could be something as simple as the hydraulic pump belt or alternator needing tightening/replacing.
Simple enough jobs that can be done at home only needing basic tools.
If you are interested i can rebuild your rear arms on an exchange basis providing yours are servicable. This could save £s on garage labour rates.
For the sake of a few pounds i would change the oil and filters.
I would get the rear arms done as a priority and the rear spheres as flat spheres can cause premature wear in the rear arm bearings.
If you have proof of cambelt and w/p change then no need to worry on that as it wont be due till 120k.
LHM should be green tho does turn yellowish when aged, might be a good idea to change it tho bleeding the brake lines through is essential as simply changing the fluid will not get down this far and wont flush the old stuff through the brake calipers also clean out all the LHM filters.
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Philip Chidlow
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by Philip Chidlow »

Cambelt and water pump would've been the priority in my book, so that's good :)

Rear arm bearings first. Then LHM change and filters cleaned followed by spheres.

Then, oil change; oil, fuel, air filters and change the coolant too.

I appreciate it is a bit obvious but good tyres, discs and pads too are vital.
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by mat_fenwick »

Personally I'd go with Phil's advice pretty much, but if budget is tight then I'd be inclined to leave the spheres for now. If the front is still soft then they're OK, and the hard ride at the rear is likely due to the bearings. To change the rear spheres you actually need the weight to be on the wheels to crack them off, NOT up in the air so no logic behind combining those jobs for a cost saving...

However, if the ride is still firm t the rear fter doing the bearings, I'd move spheres up the priority list.
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by BXcitro »

Great advice, thanks!

That's the order I was thinking too so rear arm bearings first.

All the tyres are good and the pads & discs have recently been changed.

Checking old invoices again tonight, the rear spheres were last replaced in 2001 :shock: at 61k and the front in 2005 at 70k. Today mileage is at 81k so although they haven't done the miles they are old.
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by rutter123 »

The spheres will leak gas over time and 15 year old spheres will almost certainly have lost some pressure, a little tip-crack the rear spheres off with the car in high position as this holds the rear struts tight in the housings but only by a fraction of a turn-this will stop the metal supply pipes from getting damaged, then put the car in low, open the bleed valve on the pressure regulator to release any remaining pressure, then you can remove the spheres. Refitting is reversal of this.
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by Tinkley »

Make sure the 'clonking' is from the rear - if it is, then it is indeed the rear arm bearings. If not, it can be the front drop links. I'd drain the cooling system fully and if clean replace with 50/50 anti freeze and deionised water. If it's really claggy, you'll need to flush it a lot, probably get the rad out and really clean it, and then refill with good coolant. I have been advised recently that pre 1998/2000 cars should stick to the blue antifreeze as the pink'un can damage head gaskets causing them to fail. I have used the pink'un in one (petrol) engine for almost 10 years without losing the gasket so far but some other makers definitely have had problems wit this. Now why the hell do they not put this information on the cans of the stuff?

Also check the hydraulic pump belt condition and alternator belt. They are cheap and fairly easy to change. If the rubber and reinforcing is old it may give up without warning. Any cracking obviously shows some deterioration. A bit like cam belts, the time interval does matter ie 7 years (for cam belts), and for a few quid it is worth the peace of mind.

If your doing the spheres do not overlook the Accumulator sphere as this should be as fresh as the others, so 5 spheres to replace the whole system. The fronts and Accumulator release easily, the rears can be a bit of a brute.... :wink:
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by mat_fenwick »

I would hope/expect the coolant to have been changed with the water pump... ;)
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by Tinkley »

mat_fenwick wrote:I would hope/expect the coolant to have been changed with the water pump... ;)

Well my auto probably has 25 year old coolant....which has resulted in siezed heater tap etc etc
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Re: What would you do first?

Post by Dragon Man »

good info, ill have to look into getting replacement sphers for mine too. i still kinda think that the whole getting the engine running thing is my top priority though.
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always buy base spec. that way you have the fun of putting all the cool bit on your vehicle :mrgreen:
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