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jeremy
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Post by jeremy » Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:17 am

If the engine is meant to run on 98 octane then it will set the advance appropriately. If it run on lower ocatane the knock sensor will function and the ECU will retatard the ignition so that the engine doesn't destroy itself.

However this isn't quite as good as it seems as there was a purpose in the engine running in the advanced state in the first place - namely better efficiency.

Somehow I doubt if the retardation is progressive - ie I doubt if the thing retards by one degree and listens to the knock sensor and stops there if its OK - my guess is it retards by enough so that it won't knock if its on the real cheap stuff - so the loss in efficiency is more than it really needs to be if the fuel is one less than it should be.

The next question is what doesn it need to persuade it to go back to its 'advance' setting. I've heard it said that they really need disconnecting from the battery to make them forget all the settings and re-calibrate from scratch for best results.

Incidentally fuel is not necessarily the same. Many years I had a Scirrocco GTi which ran well when I got it. I always filled it from the same pumps (Esso) and over a month it got rather poor - then I was caught short as it were away from home and filled it with something else - instant cure! - So I avoided Esso for the rest of the time I had it!

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Post by RobC » Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:20 am

BX Bandit wrote:
is if you find a black sensor with 2 wires coming out of it screwed into the engine block right next to the oil filter - that's yer knock sensor and it only came with the M1.3.
Did you mean oil filler? Yep, there's a little thingy connected to inlet manifold and air inlet duct. So mines an M1.3 which means it doesn't mind which fuel its on? I must say tho' it does seem alot better on the v-max but it could be cos' its had a good run instead of standing around??
Why do recon Vmax is crap docco? I think the local Texaco will do super unleaded (98 ron???) and I'll check Tesco - it's a big store so they probably do, although I'm not keen on lining their pockets any further truth be known - daylight bluddy robbery that lot!!

Need to focus on the TD cos its MOT tomorrow!!!!!
Nope, I mean the oil filter - you have to get down and dirty on the floor and look up! It's on the cambelt side of the oil filter. The black thing next to the oil FILLER is the idle speed control valve, and all 16vs have that.
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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:01 am

Mike E (uk) wrote:" I know V power is crap "

I disagree, my 16V runs very nicely on it. costimax seems OK too.
Not tried the 99 tesco type yet.
Dont get me wrong mate, V Power runs well in my car too. However, it can attack the plastic bits in fuel lines / pumps in older cars. this is something I have been told by someone that knows, wont mention names but I trust his word on this.

The Tesco's stuff seems bl**dy good to me and is very cheap! And earns me enough clubcard points for a serious spending spree at xmas time (booze of course!!).

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Chris G
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:10 pm

Slightly off topic i guess, except its still about fuel, for those of us who have bowed their heads in shame & now are using devil juice (sorry i mean diesel), is there much difference between the standard quality diesel & the current range of high performance one's?

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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:28 pm

The high performance diesel fuels available today are really designed for modern PD/HDI diesels, a relative of mine who drives an Audi A6 reckons that BP advanced diesel makes a noticeable difference, back in the old days (well the nineties) Shell super used to make them run well to the extent that I would always put some in any diesel car I was selling, for our old living fossils any improvements are doubtful, biodiesel makes them run smoothly and quietly but if used at 100% causes an ultimate loss of power, a mix of 30% bio appears to be a good compromise.
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Post by BX Bandit » Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:53 pm

you have to get down and dirty on the floor and look up!
Rob C, my missus seems to say the same quite alot...are you two up to something???!!! :roll: :wink: 8) I'll check tomorrow mate.
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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY » Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:03 pm

So its safe to mix biodiesel & regular together? Is biodiesel cheaper? & whereabouts can i find out where anyone stocks any local to me?

If you havent noticed, i ask lots of questions...hehe...

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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:46 am

Have a web search for biodiesel, you should find your local supplier, it is best mixed with normal fossil diesel, beware some bio can gum up the works (I think thats why my TZD is running on a little)
Stewart
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Toddman
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Post by Toddman » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:42 pm

Bandit you will be pleased to know that the ecu info is not as comprehensive as stated earlier - some P2s have the ML4.1 and some of the 1.3s come without knock sensor.
The true test to see which ecu you have is to look at the ecu and count the number of rows of pins th eplug fits onto

2 rows - 4.1
3 rows - 1.3

It is adviseable to run your valver on the best petrol you can get as if oyu thrash it a lot oyu will damage the seats with poor quality petrol despite what the citroen spec may say - I have seen many vakve seats on these engines nad they do regress.

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Luke
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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:47 pm

Amen to that mate!

Leaded fuel round here is £1.60 now though!!!!!! (A litre :shock: )

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Chris G
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Post by BX Bandit » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:50 pm

OK, Where is the ECU - under one of the front seats?
I did get down and dirty and had a look up (not my words...honest) and there was a plug (2 wires I think) just by the Halfrauds :x oil filter.
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:52 pm

Engine ECU is under the drivers seat mate.
Unless it's a left hooker of course! :lol:

Having driven it I'm fairly sure your's is a right hooker so, er, my original point stands! :lol:

Time for beer

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Chris G
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Toddman
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Post by Toddman » Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:00 pm

Yes indeedy under the passenger seat is the ABS control unit.
I was working on an Austrian left hooker the other day and the units are not switched over just the seats.

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Luke

P.S. No comments about hookers from the Austrain left thankyou :D
Please call me Luke :)
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Post by BX Bandit » Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:20 pm

3 rows of pins...which confirms its an M1.3?? It's nice and warm in the car at the moment cos I've got a fan heater to try and drive off the old moisture - gonna take a week or so I would of thought :shock: Still, can't bear to have it all moist over winter [-X !=!! now now stop it!!!!
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1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
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Toddman
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Post by Toddman » Sat Dec 02, 2006 9:39 pm

Yep that's a 1.3 sounds like it is with knock sensor as well if oyu have the thingy on the front of th eblock :D

Sunroof drains are the usual culprit for damp interiors

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Luke
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