I'm Getting a 16v Tomorrow!

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docchevron
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Re: ecu

Post by docchevron » Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:14 am

Toddman wrote:Sunroof drains are the usual culprit for damp interiors

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Luke
Yeah, Mr. Bandit was trying to tell me that too!
I reckon it's cos he got over excited driving it home! :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink:

Mine doesn't have any of that knock sensor sh!te. Seems happy on 98 / 99 RON fuel and thus far [-o< valve seat recession doesn't seem to be an issue. I've never used 95RON in her and never would, knock sensor or not..
I'm loath to use an additive / octane booster. Not sure how the technologies come along but when I was running the ambulance everyday I found the manganese / potasium based additives caused horrid pity...
More harm than good.

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Chris G
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Post by BX Bandit » Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:41 am

I'm kind of envious Doc - technology seems to mess engines up. Perhaps I'll rip my knock sensor out just to 'comply'...

I'll always stick the full ron in her anyway...she seems to like it that way!!
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:41 am

Nooooooooooo :shock:

Dont rip the sensor out! she'll bite you in ar$e if you do that!

Just run it on full fat fuel and it'll be fine :wink:

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Chris G
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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thanuttiscotsman
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Post by thanuttiscotsman » Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:45 am

hi there,
i would agree with that :D . i rarely fill my car right up but when i do i use NOS octane booster :twisted: . considering it is 8 quid or something its not too expensive as you need to spend near fiddy to fill a 16v anyhow. :(

cheers rossco 8)
1989 BX 16v ph1 Chipped, k+N, full scorpion, weber throttle body, NOS 1990 BX 16v ph2
1996 transit 2.5di 80 swb
2006 Suzuki GSR 600cc Fast as F**K!

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sensor

Post by Toddman » Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:20 pm

Defo keep the knock sensor they are a good thing but as said just use 98/99 fuel if oyu struggle with finding good juice just whack in some Castrol Valvemaster Plus it is the only additive I havd tried taht keeps my motor sweet if I have to get some local watered down petrol.

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Luke
Please call me Luke :)
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Post by BX Bandit » Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:26 pm

Thanks guys - I can't run it now cos the radiator turns into a very hot shower once she gets warmed up!! Doc, I think you're right about the thermostat cos the heating is virtually instant - so its either missing or knackered :x
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
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Post by docchevron » Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:39 pm

The way the gauge plummets whilst driving and the lack of heat in the rad (before it became incontinent) suggests to me the distinct lack of thermostat.
Stats are cheap and easy to fit though! Since the rad has to go in the bin too it's a good excuse to have a decent dabble with the cooling system!

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Chris G
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Post by Mike E (uk) » Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:22 am

If Thermostat is missing or stuck open, it will warm up very slowly.
It will also overcool on long downhill runs.

If it is stuck shut, it will warm up quickly (this is normally very fast in a BX16V anyway) but then it will overheat as the rad wont be used properly.

Mike

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Post by Kitch » Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:29 am

I seem to remember the seller mentioning it had had it removed.

Although I tried removing it once, and if you have the plastic stat housing, water just pisses out again as it needs the stat to fully seal. Unless you bodge it somehow.

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Post by BX Bandit » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:08 am

If Thermostat is missing or stuck open, it will warm up very slowly.
It will also overcool on long downhill runs.

If it is stuck shut, it will warm up quickly (this is normally very fast in a BX16V anyway) but then it will overheat as the rad wont be used properly.
Mmm - now I am confused!!

It doesn't overheat so I assume its not stuck shut.
The only reason I think it's missing/stuck open is the fact that warm air can be felt through the heating/ventilation very soon after starting the car, say 1 minute (whereas normally, it would take 4/5 minutes to get hot enough before the thermostat opens). Its not very hot air but it comes through very quickly.

I didn't observe it overcooling on a downhill run, but surely under normal operation when the engine is hot the thermostat is open anyway?
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1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue

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Post by jeremy » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:25 am

The heater is the engine side of the thermostat - so will warm as the engine does - and should work nicely with the thermostat shut. It is of course a source of cooling for the engine and its perfectly possible to run for miles using the heater as the sole source of cooling (as our ZX does in winter)

The thermostat opens as and when needed - and may not open fully if it doesn't need to. If the car is standing and idling with the heater off then eventually the engine will reach the thermostat opening temperature and allow water to flow through the radiator. This in turn will get hotter until the fans are turned on.

You may be able to monitor the performance from the gauge or independant thermometers placed on the hoses, engine rad etc. (or even by feel - top hose should suddenly get hot as thermostat opens!)

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Post by BX Bandit » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:32 am

The heater is the engine side of the thermostat - so will warm as the engine does
Aha! I thought it was isolated until the thermostat opens....so the car 'apprently' warming up quickly (as far as heat/ventilation goes) has nothing to do with the thermostat. As Mike said then, the 16v warms up quite quickly, as opposed to my td which takes a few more minutes.Capiche!!

Doc, if this makes a difference, it has the finned/cast sump - I remember you were querying it at some point......
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue

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Post by docchevron » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:34 pm

hhmm, Although the heating seemed to work abit, it aint anywhere near as good as mine!!! Yuo actually can burn your hands in it!

Working on the assumption that you had driven from London to mine I'd have said thats plenty enough time to warm it up!! :D
However I noted that despite the gauge being up round the 90 deg c mark when I got in it, within seconds of driving off the gauge fell and continued to do so down to about 60 deg C. with luke warm air at best from the heater. When we got back and I had the bonnet open the engine and rad were warm but not hot. This to me suggests the thermostat is either stuck open, opens far too early or isn't fitted. I still reckon it aint got one....
Unless it was me getting in it which killed it?? :shock:

The sump is cast alloy?? Blimey, the oil gets very hot then!!!

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Chris G
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Post by jeremy » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:41 pm

I entirely agree lack of thermostat or a dud one. It should control the flow to the radiator to keep the engine at the optimum temperature - and I'd expect a 16 Valve to produce plenty of heat.

The temperature gauge pickup is on the engine side of the thermostat (like the heater)