Ta dah . . ! My new foglights . . .

A place for us to show off our cars in all their glory. Please keep picture sizes to about 800x600 pixels.
Mothman

Post by Mothman » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:28 pm

Thats very interesting Phil,

and actually i am very pleased to know that holes there aint a problem, None of my BXs as yet have holes apearing there yet but ime treating them in case they do. I would personally be a bit worried if i was driving about in a vehicle with such holes there or in the boot areas as the rustworm creeps as we know.

Andy

User avatar
Philip Chidlow
Over 2k
Posts: 11576
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 1:08 pm
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
x 16

Post by Philip Chidlow » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:31 pm

Holes are generally bad and frowned upon, but I guess if you treat and seal and weatherproof it'll stop problems developing elsewhere? Dunno :? Most of the BXs I've owned have exhibited bubbling in that area to some extent - but I've never had one (of my maybe 9 BXs I've actually had tested) fail an MOT on it.
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
• 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6 16v

Mothman

Post by Mothman » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:38 pm

Well,
if it looks good and cant be seen, will the tester know? If its keeps an old motor going i guess it will keep being done.

Andy

User avatar
Paul296
Over 2k
Posts: 3483
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:39 pm
Location: Newark Nottinghamshire
My Cars: Citroen BX 17 TZD Hurricane
Citroen BX 17 TGD

Post by Paul296 » Sun Oct 09, 2011 1:33 pm

Kitch wrote:Fog lamps look pretty swish, are they the Renault ones?

With that C-pillar, sorry in advance etc, but isn't filling over rust holes a bodge? Surely you want to at least spot weld some plating in there first? What's the filler supported with, mesh or fibreglass?
The filler’s supported by mesh. When the car was MOT’ed at the end of June/early July this year the rust was pretty much as it appears before I completed the repair. The car passed its’ MOT without any advisories so I assumed that as far as the test was concerned the rust didn’t compromise the structural integrity of the car in anyway. I took some advice at a few of the CCC rallies I attended over the Summer as to what would be the best way to go about the repair – it was generally agreed that it didn’t present a structural problem, which was my main concern. Ideally I’d like to have undone the spot welds between the rear wing and the wheel arch, peeled back the seam and removed any rust that that revealed. I think it’s unlikely as it stood that the welding in of a new piece of metal would have been required.

As I had neither the practical resources to complete the work myself or the finances to get someone else to do it, the second (and perhaps less comprehensive option) was to remove all the rust that was visible, rust treat it and remove any rust in the rear wheel arch (it was clean as a whistle in there and made me optimistic that the repair would be stable). To leave it any longer – particularly over another winter – would have meant that major surgery would definitely have been required by next year. I certainly didn’t repair over any visible rust only fresh metal. I’m not sure if that makes it a ‘bodge’ – I prefer to see it as damage limitation or at least the most sensible option I had in light of the resources available to me. So far the repair seems very stable and I still have the option of a more comprehensive repair should that be required at a later stage, but without any deterioration in the meantime

anaconda
BXpert
BXpert
Posts: 185
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:50 pm
Location: Chateau du Wirral

Post by anaconda » Sun Oct 09, 2011 3:41 pm

Doesnt the hole give access to the inner sill? I seem to recall someone here saying if you're doing this job then its worth making sure you waxoil or otherwise rust treat the inner sill - via the hole?
1991 BX TGD Saloon
1990 VW T25 Camper. Currently on sabbatical

User avatar
Kitch
Over 2k
Posts: 6204
Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 9:36 pm
Location: Fareham, Hants
x 49

Post by Kitch » Sun Oct 09, 2011 6:33 pm

Paul296 wrote:
Kitch wrote:Fog lamps look pretty swish, are they the Renault ones?

With that C-pillar, sorry in advance etc, but isn\'t filling over rust holes a bodge? Surely you want to at least spot weld some plating in there first? What\'s the filler supported with, mesh or fibreglass?
The filler’s supported by mesh. When the car was MOT’ed at the end of June/early July this year the rust was pretty much as it appears before I completed the repair. The car passed its’ MOT without any advisories so I assumed that as far as the test was concerned the rust didn’t compromise the structural integrity of the car in anyway. I took some advice at a few of the CCC rallies I attended over the Summer as to what would be the best way to go about the repair – it was generally agreed that it didn’t present a structural problem, which was my main concern. Ideally I’d like to have undone the spot welds between the rear wing and the wheel arch, peeled back the seam and removed any rust that that revealed. I think it’s unlikely as it stood that the welding in of a new piece of metal would have been required.

As I had neither the practical resources to complete the work myself or the finances to get someone else to do it, the second (and perhaps less comprehensive option) was to remove all the rust that was visible, rust treat it and remove any rust in the rear wheel arch (it was clean as a whistle in there and made me optimistic that the repair would be stable). To leave it any longer – particularly over another winter – would have meant that major surgery would definitely have been required by next year. I certainly didn’t repair over any visible rust only fresh metal. I’m not sure if that makes it a ‘bodge’ – I prefer to see it as damage limitation or at least the most sensible option I had in light of the resources available to me. So far the repair seems very stable and I still have the option of a more comprehensive repair should that be required at a later stage, but without any deterioration in the meantime
Oh if it\'s a stop-gap type affair then I don\'t think you could do much more, though I\'d have added some fibreglass in there aswell to keep some strength. Finished article came out well too didn\'t it?

User avatar
Paul296
Over 2k
Posts: 3483
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:39 pm
Location: Newark Nottinghamshire
My Cars: Citroen BX 17 TZD Hurricane
Citroen BX 17 TGD

Post by Paul296 » Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:55 pm

I have actually got some fibreglass but didn't think to use it! #-o Oh well, you live and learn. I'm hoping it won't have to be a stop gap, but if it is I'll accept my fate with equanimity (then kick something! :D )

User avatar
mat_fenwick
Moderator
Posts: 7278
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:08 pm
Location: North Wales
x 13

Post by mat_fenwick » Sun Oct 09, 2011 10:27 pm

IMO (and experience) filled repairs will not last as long as welded in new metal, but can last a few years if there is no rust left behind and the filler is protected from moisture. Many fillers are hydroscopic so the last stage is important!

It is a good looking job you've done there, and reminds me I must sort out mine! I have a little bit of corrosion in the seam, so my plan is to drill out the spot welds, remove the overlap and butt weld them back together. But my welder has failed and I can't find the fault :(
Image

1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad

User avatar
Paul296
Over 2k
Posts: 3483
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:39 pm
Location: Newark Nottinghamshire
My Cars: Citroen BX 17 TZD Hurricane
Citroen BX 17 TGD

Post by Paul296 » Sun Oct 09, 2011 10:43 pm

mat_fenwick wrote: I have a little bit of corrosion in the seam, so my plan is to drill out the spot welds, remove the overlap and butt weld them back together. :(
I think that's the best way to go about it - but I don't have the facilities or the know-how really. I'm hoping that it will last a couple of years at least and in the meantime keep my beady eye on it. My main concern (besides making it look nice!) was to stop it getting any worse as it was definitely on the move!

Defender110
Over 2k
Posts: 5898
Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:02 pm
Location: Harwood, Bolton
My Cars: Citroen BX MK1 Break.
Land Rover Discovery Series 1 200tdi 3 door
Land Rover Discovery Series 2 Facelift TD5
BMW X1
x 25

Post by Defender110 » Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:44 pm

mat_fenwick wrote:But my welder has failed and I can't find the fault :(
Have you put a shilling in the meter? :lol:
Kevan
1987 Citroen BX MK1 diesel estate.(Currently in dry storage)
1997 Mercedes C230 W202 - daily driver.
2010 BMW X1 SE 2.0D Auto - Her indoors daily driver.
2003 Land Rover Discovery Series 2 Facelift TD5 - Daily driver / hobby days and camping.
1993 Land Rover Discovery 200tdi Series 1 3 door - in need of TLC

User avatar
mat_fenwick
Moderator
Posts: 7278
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:08 pm
Location: North Wales
x 13

Post by mat_fenwick » Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:04 pm

:lol: Tried that, also the old 'bang on the side of the case' trick but no success. The usual problem with these is the relay on the PCB for the wire feed motor, but that's OK on mine. Getting a 12V supply to the board as I should be, but that drops to nothing as soon as you pull the trigger.
Image

1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad

bx petrol auto saloon
BXpert
BXpert
Posts: 477
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2011 11:50 am
Location: Tonbridge KENT
My Cars: Citroens SAABs and Vauxhalls
x 2

Ta Dah ! My new fog lights.

Post by bx petrol auto saloon » Tue Oct 11, 2011 10:04 pm

Dear Paul.
Nice car Paul, the fog lights are exactly the sort I would have fitted, I
love the yellow fog lamps look, it suits your car perfectly.
Very nice repair to the door shut too Paul, I think it is a fantastic job
well done, I found with rust it is a case of sooner rather than later.
I know what you mean about people thinking, he,s out there polishing
his car again, I have a 2 car drive. and I rent a council garage 1/4 of a
mile away, but there is usually 4 cars I polish and valet continously like
painting the 4th road bridge, it is a never ending job. I am very very
good at polishing cars and I thoroughly enjoy it and have done since I was
18.
Today I have been totally soaked pressure washing the underneath of
the car and washing the wheel arches to reveal white paint.
I will get some photo,s for you Paul but I am just making the most of
having the car on 4 axle stand, now that I have finished repairing the
LHM leak and cleaning the LHM filters and renewing the LHM fluid.
Best Wishes Paul.
Vince.
Passion Hydropneumatic Citroen,s

Cars;- 1993 White Citroen BX 1.6 TXi petrol
saloon auto with air-con & ABS.
47,594 Miles from new.
Owned for 3 years sorned.
1988 Silver SAAB 900i 2.0 8v F/lift,
saloon 5sp with 3 spoke Ronals,
69,000 Miles from new.
Owned for 15 years T & T.

User avatar
Way2go
Over 2k
Posts: 7279
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 3:15 pm
Location: RCoBerkshire
x 2

Re: Ta Dah ! My new fog lights.

Post by Way2go » Wed Oct 12, 2011 1:38 am

bx petrol auto saloon wrote: Today I have been totally soaked pressure washing the underneath of
the car and washing the wheel arches to reveal white paint.
Does that mean that you have blasted off the underseal with the ferocity of the pressure washer? :?
1991 BX19GTi Auto

User avatar
Paul296
Over 2k
Posts: 3483
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:39 pm
Location: Newark Nottinghamshire
My Cars: Citroen BX 17 TZD Hurricane
Citroen BX 17 TGD

Post by Paul296 » Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:29 am

Thanks Vince. My next job is to replace the LHM as it's not as green as it should be! I have to say, like you, I'm an inveterate polisher. I find it very relaxing and it sort of compensates for my lack of proficiency with a spanner ( but it does mean I have to tolerate my Mum's neighbour saying; 'you'll mek it rain agen' with monotonous regularity - it was funny the first time) Also, I like making what is generally thought of as a banger - look absolutely lovely - its my way of giving the finger to consumerism and 'new car' culture (bit of politics there) :shock:

As 'way2go' mentioned I'd be careful with the pressure washer in the wheel arches and that you don't remove the underseal? Anyway, hope you've made some progress with working out how to post pics - it would be great to see some pics of this car of yours?

Paul

User avatar
Tim Leech
Over 2k
Posts: 15199
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:12 am
Location: Burton on Trent
My Cars: 1963 VW BEETLE 1200 KGJ413A
1972 Morris Marina 1.8 SDL BFA720L
1979 Rover SD1 3.5 V8-S TSL 982
1980 Morris Marina 1.7HL DBV468W
1985 CITROEN BX 19GT C1TBX
1991 CITROEN BX 19TZI AUTO A/C BXi 19
1994 CITROEN XANTIA 1.8 SXi M908HRY
2002 Rover 75 CDT Connossieur SE Nav Auto R40TSL
2003 Rover 25 1.6i XL L33CHT
x 70

Re: Ta Dah ! My new fog lights.

Post by Tim Leech » Wed Oct 12, 2011 9:02 am

Way2go wrote:
bx petrol auto saloon wrote: Today I have been totally soaked pressure washing the underneath of
the car and washing the wheel arches to reveal white paint.
Does that mean that you have blasted off the underseal with the ferocity of the pressure washer? :?
erm no, they should indeed be be white (see my TZi), albeit stone chip paint.
1963 VW BEETLE 1200
1985 BX 19GT Mk1
1991 BX 19TZI Auto A/C
1994 Xantia 1.8i SX
1972 Morris Marina 1.8 SDL
1979 Rover SD1 V8-S
1980 Morris Marina 1.7HL
2002 Rover 75 CDTi Connossieur SE AUTO Nav
2003 Rover 25 1.6i XL 5 DR