Need to change my cambelt on my TZD

Frequently asked technical questions and common modifications/improvements
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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Tue May 13, 2008 3:02 am

I'm a bit confused here.
You have both front wheels free of the ground?
If you have then turning the wheel in gear will have no effect on the engine whatsoever as the diff will counter any movement you give to one side by rotating the other wheel.

So, maybe the brake was stuck on on the opposite side which allowed the engine to be turned over, but has now freed and therefore both wheels are turning and the engine is not?

Only other thing that springs to mind is that *possibly* one of the inner CV joints has parted company from the shaft?
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TB2
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Post by TB2 » Tue May 13, 2008 1:49 pm

Ah, uhm, so, it is actually a good thing that if I rotate one wheel, the engine doesn't turn with it?

Yes, both front wheels are off the ground. If I rotate the front left wheel, which is still on, then if I check the other side I can see that the right side (where I took the wheel off) was moving, too. So that's normal? The engine only turns with the other wheel blocked? Well, guess that explains it then. So that's perfectly normal? I feel a bit stupid.

*reads wikipedia article about differentials

Ah, so the opposite wheel is actually turning the other way? Well. I see, that's pretty smart. I still need to read some more to fully understand it though.

But thanks. I get it now ;)
Carl

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1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
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Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Tue May 13, 2008 1:53 pm

TB2 wrote:Yes, both front wheels are off the ground. If I rotate the front left wheel, which is still on, then if I check the other side I can see that the right side (where I took the wheel off) was moving, too. So that's normal? The engine only turns with the other wheel blocked? Well, guess that explains it then. So that's perfectly normal? I feel a bit stupid.
Yes, thats perfectley normal!

Diff's are very easy to understand, once you understand what they do!

Still, thats one problem sorted without any outlay of cash! Result.
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Post by RichardW » Tue May 13, 2008 2:54 pm

What you want is a Technics Lego differential so that you can see how they work :lol: Remarkable simple solution to what is on the surface quite a complex problem.

I too have fallen in the "both wheels off the ground, can't rotate the engine" hole :roll:
I NEED a BX TD.

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Post by ellevie » Sat May 17, 2008 9:10 am

Quote TB2: "I took a look at the manual and found out that the hand brake also locks the front wheels"

It ONLY locks the front wheels. Make sure to secure the back wheels with 4 suitable wheel stops. I don't even trust the handbrake --- I also secure the fronts wheels with stops when I have the back of the car jacked up.

You can get the timing marks into approximate position before you jack the car up by nudging the car backwards and forwards whilst putting it in and out of gear as often as necessary. Then you can do the fine adjustment with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley.
David

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Post by YorkieTXD » Tue Mar 03, 2009 4:23 pm

Ian_Fearn wrote:Cheers David, i'd intended to do the pump and tensioner regardless.

This is a money no object job, i've wanted this car for years!
if its money no object, why not pay someone to do it. i have just been quoted £150 of a mate as he reckons its a four hour job.
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Post by YorkieTXD » Tue Mar 03, 2009 4:27 pm

YorkieTXD wrote:
Ian_Fearn wrote:Cheers David, i'd intended to do the pump and tensioner regardless.

This is a money no object job, i've wanted this car for years!
if its money no object, why not pay someone to do it. i have just been quoted £150 of a mate as he reckons its a four hour job.
okay why did i post this when it was sooooo long ago!
Current 1993 19 TXD White
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Post by toddao » Thu Jun 25, 2009 3:34 pm

This I have learnt : do NOT use a junior hacksaw handle in the flywheel timing hole, make sure it's a proper 8mm steel rod or drill bit with no play whatsoever as this is critical. If all the pins/screws are tight with no play the cambelt is straightforward.

I learnt this the hard way when the belt slipped and the pistons went up, hit the valves and broke the camshaft. If there is any play in the screws that hold the cam/pump pulley and the flywheel it's possible to jump a tooth when fitting the belt.
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read

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Post by Dollywobbler » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:27 am

This thread is great. Hoping to have time to tackle the belt on mine this week. Am I right in thinking that essential items include a deep 16mm socket but that I can probably get away with not having to remove the crank pulley? On the advice of Mr Fenwick, the starter motor will be coming off.

I'm replacing the water pump (as it's leaking) and the tensioner (part of the kit so it'd be foolish to not replace it I reckon). Presume I need to drop the coolant before taking the pump off? If it hasn't all drained out anyway... :roll:

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Post by Defender110 » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:32 am

Yes you need to drop the coolant, I have never found the need to remove the starter motor but I would remove the crank pulley as it makes it much easier especially when fitting all new parts/belt and I like to see every part of the belt is correctly positioned on each pulley.
Kevan
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Post by citronut » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:28 pm

its not possible to change a cam belt without removeing the crank pully,
unless someone knows something i dont, i have been knowen to be wrong :shock: :lol: :wink:


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JayW
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Post by JayW » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:38 pm

citronut wrote:i have been known to be wrong :shock: :lol: :wink:


regards malcolm
Well, this time you get away with it old man :lol:

For thou art correct.
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Dollywobbler
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Post by Dollywobbler » Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:12 pm

Interesting. At least two people have said that it can be done in this thread...

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JayW
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Post by JayW » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:43 pm

Only if the plastics are missing! :lol:
I have zero patience for your tedium.

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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick » Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:07 am

/\ Agreed. I don't think you can remove the lower plastic cover (in one piece at least!) with the crank pulley still in place.
Starter motor is a matter of preference - makes it easier to find the hole, especially if it is your first time (should I rephrase that? :oops: ) and is very little bother on a NA diesel.
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