Valeo ignition switch versus original flat key - wiring!!

[mnde]

From an old thread:

Hello from a new member
help needed!!!
I contacted AEP and got a new steering lock and ignition switch (£51.47 including delivery) it did n't quite match the old one I've taken off! Having noted that members seemed to have cracked the problem of physically fitting the lock by creative use of hacksaw I was not too discouraged: -- This was before the conversation had turned to the question of wiring!!!
Now its bank holiday weekend I 've just got the time to fit the part, however, now I've come to do it and taken the old one apart I have found that the wiring from the switch to the two connector sockets is different. So I'm stuck!

The old wiring has
4 WHITE wires leading to one circuit socket connector and
another 4 RED wires leading to a second circuit socket connector.

The unit AEP have supplied does have two circuit socket connectors the same size as the originals to plug into the circuits served by the ignition/ steering column switch but the wiring is different;

The first of the circuit socket connectors has only two WHITE wires only to sockets 1 and 4 and no connections to sockets 2 and 3

The other circuit socket connector has four wires from the ignition switch
Socket 1 has GREEN lead with an additional fly lead with a socket. There is no extra lead like this on the current set up.
Socket 2 has GREEN lead
socket 3 has an ORANGE lead
Socket 4 has a YELLOW lead.

How do I wire the new unit in, how did you do it. Would be grateful for any help I can't trace how the switches are wired from my Haynes Manual.

I've just bought a new Valeo "spine key" ignition barrel to replace the fubared "flat key" original, where the first pin is leaning out and obstructing entry of the key.

To cut a long story short, the car is currently with an elderly non-Citroen mechanic... he's just phoned me up to say "wiring's different mate".

So, the above post shows the wiring differences between the old and newer type switch. Now I need some advice please how to connect up the new Valeo switch to the connectors under the dash so I can phone the guy back and tell him!! I'm hoping its easy! I really want the car back!!

Cheers,

Mark.

[rhv100]

Ive just changed my switch to a valeo.Just reconnect the two plugs--they

only go one way.I didnt have a problem. Dont worry about the colour of

the wires. Hope this helps.

[mnde]

Thanks! I've just called him to reassure him that it'll all fit and to ignore the fly lead for the ABS. He said he's going to have another look in the morning.

So, what colour are the wires to the connectors under the dash? I'm assuming they are white and red to match the four whites and reds coming in from the ignition switch?

If so, I assume with the new Valeo switch it'll be white TO white and green-green-orange-yellow TO red?

Cheers,

Mark.

[DLM]

I don't have a Haynes OR BX in front of me, but think you're right about the colours. There IS only one way to fit the connectors from the new switch, but it is a little disconcenting when you compare the new leads & connectors with the old ones.

If your man is still skeptical then why not suggest he disconnects the old switch (under the very rear of the central radio console) and plugs in the new switch to confirm it works before fitting. That's what I did with mine as I didn't feel 100% confident when I saw the wiring "mismatch", though all was well (on an ABS-equipped TZD).

[DLM]

I meant "disconcerting" - a cuse on the lack of edit...

[Vanny]

Is there a lack of edit function? I notice that Mr Chidlow was able to edit some of his posts. Is it timed or something?

Hmmm, seems i can edit, must be a timer. I also notice how rude that was to hijack the thread!

My thoughts where however, that i have had no problem fitting multicoloured wiring to replace the red/white wiring. I also have somewhere a two year old set of Citroen supplied and fitted locks and wires which have the new style colours so i suspect all OEM parts are now the same evn if you went to the great Citroen shop its self!

[prm]

Not having seen your new type Valeo switch, a few pointers that may help to solve the problem with the two wire terminal block.. As previously mentioned, I would have thought these would connect to existing blocks and still operate fully, as the two missing wire/terminals may be connected internally with the new switch.

With the old switch – 4 reds, 4 whites, each adjacent pair of red white wires on the switch make contact with each other making 4 independent switched circuits. All reds from the brown terminal block are supply + wires; all whites to the white terminal block are the switched + circuits.

If the new switch fails to make contact internally with the two missing supply wires on the brown connector, you may need to bridge terminals 1 with 2 and 3 with 4

As a guide from the old type switch with a 3 position key, your new unit should have 3 switched positions. 1st position 1 or 2 circuits connected, ancillary equipment (radio ets.) 2nd position, 3 circuits connected - 3rd position, (spring return) two circuits connected. Ignition plus starter.

If possible, just tie up the new switch - 2 greens, yellow, orange with similar white wire connections on the old unit. In most cases?? You shouldn’t cause any electrical damage by using a fused direct feed from the battery to identify the existing switched circuits. But on the safe side, disconnect any ECU’s

Now you know how to bypass/jump most old type ignition circuits!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hope this helps.

Regards

[Jaba]

The new two wire connector works ok with the original car wiring. Those two extra wires that are missing on new switches are redundant circuits,

Just plug it in and it will work. Honest.

[mnde]

Thanks everyone. I called him yesterday and he's fitted it without any further problems.

Mark.

[DLM]

Pleased to hear it was fitted successfully - just a bit offputting the first time you see it and wonder where the wires have gone.

Is there a lack of edit function?

If it's back I'm very pleased. My supposed correction shows just how accurate my fingers normally are - last time I wanted to use the posting edit function it had been withdrawn for a reason I don't now recall.

[B-Hive]

For my money i'd return the switch for money back..

Usually the ignition switch just fails engaging the starter motor.. if this is the case leave your old switch in situ and add a push button start over-ride to get the starter going.. I have done that one the MK1. Just isolate the leads that activate the starter and install a button into to cowl adjacent to the switch. Saved me the cost of a new switch and all the conversion problems,,

IMHO

[DavidRutherford]

For my money i'd return the switch for money back..

Usually the ignition switch just fails engaging the starter motor.. if this is the case....

If you read the thread, you'll find that this is not the case, and a new ignition switch was the only course of action.

[Kitch]

For my money i'd return the switch for money back..

Usually the ignition switch just fails engaging the starter motor.. if this is the case....

If you read the thread, you'll find that this is not the case, and a new ignition switch was the only course of action.

Plus if anyone tries returning electrical items to my shop, they get told to move along