jacking up/`blocking` suspension to enable car to be moved.

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cavmad
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jacking up/`blocking` suspension to enable car to be moved.

Post by cavmad » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:13 pm

Many moons ago now a mate sold an XM which wouldnt go to a bloke who came to collect it. The buyer was an absolute whizz with all things Citroen and jacked the car up (with a trolley jack) and put four pieces of wood (one in each corner) then lowered the jack. Presto hey! off he went with XM on trailer.
My question is thus: is this possible on a BX and if so can someone please explain in the most laymen of laymen terms how to do this and exactly where to insert my wood (fnarr fnarr!) ?
The plan is (if I win the listing) to tow said BX home but it couldn`t be done in it`s present state as the exhaust is on the floor already. It wouldn`t get out of the chaps drive without ripping it off, never mind the speedhumps. Any ideas/solutions most welcome.
Cheers,
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Stewart (oily!)
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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:28 pm

I dont know about the front on a BX but the rear is easy, get youself a couple of four inch lengths of two by two, jack the rear up high as you can and put a block each side near where the bump stops are behind the rear wheels, mind you if the car is a complete but non running one you are just as well towing it in second gear, it should get up after a few yards. that way you may even have brakes too!
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DLM
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Post by DLM » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:29 pm

It must have been a CX rather than an XM, I think.

The wooden block bodge is accomplished by inserting the block between a rear arm (or front wishbone) and its end-travel rubber stop. As an XM (like the BX) has a Macpherson-strut-and-cylinder arrangement on the front suspension, there's no end-stop.
Relying on two wheels and musclepower since the last BX (or any car) had to go.

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Post by adamskibx » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:25 pm

Umm- I know one way you might be able to do it is to use the starter motor to turn the engine over. Basically, if you go there to get it, take some heavy duty jump leads and a charged battery to put in it if you can, then connect them up to another running car, remove the spark plugs and turn it over for ages, stopping every 20 secs for 20 secs to allow the cables and starter to cool.
I tried this on my GS once and gave up after about 3 minutes of doing it, BUT, the GS takes about 10 times longer anyway to get up to pressure, and when I decided to fix the engine instead it went up as soon as it started which it never did before so I was obviously almost there. This method will work but might take 10 minutes or so.

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Post by tom » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:36 pm

Remove plugs or glowplugs, Disconnect ignition or fuel stop solenoid and tow in gear. Car rises after 100 yards and you have brakes, steering and suspension, Check LHM before departure though.

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Post by Vanny » Sat Dec 03, 2005 2:20 am

for the fronts just lob the wood between the bottom wishbone and the top of the strut, however i dont fancy your chances of getting too far! Whats up with the car in total? And how far? Im up for a trek with a tool kit and perhaps i might fix it while i'm there, worst comes to the worst i'll ride while you tow and i can play bitch (though does a bitch CARcount?).


Best tell us whats suspected to be wrong with it!

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cavmad
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Post by cavmad » Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:16 am

Thanks once again folks and this is exactly the reason why I`m more than happy to pay a membership fee.
Car has had fuel problems in the past Vanny: apparantly ran o.k when on the move but struggled to tick over/build up power pulling away from junctions etc.
He also said it wouldn`t physically hold as much fuel as it used to-I did try and look at the fuel tank but the position of the car made it a little difficult but what I could see looked o.k.
When he got it home the last time he used it it limped back then never ran again-that was over a year ago now and after a couple of attempts to start it he just left it there.
More details on the technical and bx spotting sections of this site btw.
Nice looking car (underneath the piles of rubbish and dents/scratches!) and I love the colour.
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Post by Grace » Sat Dec 03, 2005 8:54 pm

For the front. Take a piece of 2"x4" (50mmx100mm timber), mark at 100mm to define a square. Draw a line from each corner to form a cross. At centre point drill 30mm dia hole. Cut block thru centre of hole and at 100mm mark. Repeat process for 2nd block. Place halves around the strut insert and hold in place with cable ties. Et voila!

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Post by tom » Sat Dec 03, 2005 9:10 pm

Wood work! :D

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cavmad
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Post by cavmad » Fri Dec 09, 2005 8:23 pm

D-day: 09.00hrs prompt tomorrow (Sat) morning. Venue: vendor`s garden. I`ll be bringing: lots of tools, a battery, some jump leads, my boost pack and a friend (if he`s up).
Report on success/failure sometime tomorrow on this very forum. Wish me luck chaps, and if i don`t make it back with another BX carry on without me, I`ll be in the alehouse.
D.S.O Cavmad, PSV, HGV, MBE. Twice removed, once from the pub.
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Post by jeremy » Sat Dec 10, 2005 8:48 am

Cavmad - if you win some awards twice you get a 'BAR' don't you?

jeremy

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cavmad
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Post by cavmad » Sat Dec 10, 2005 11:47 am

I don`t know Jeremy but I`ll be hitting one later on!
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