Rear Wing Stone Guards
- Tim Leech
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Rear Wing Stone Guards
You know what I mean, the plastic things that fits at the front edge of the rear arch to stop the stone chipping, how do these come off as I want to paint mine on the TRS when I get the bonnet done as mine are faded and worn.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
- DavidRutherford
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- DLM
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Recent scruffy diesel n/a estate - "The Red Shed" - is no longer mine. - x 9
Why remove them unless absolutely required? They all get stone-chipped at the leading edge. A a bit of judicious masking would allow just that area to be covered with the part in situ, though I guess that's more of a DIYing task than something to pay for.
IF absolutely necessary for structural work and the like, they are potentially removable with considerable care, but it's not a casual undertaking. I've managed it on 3 separate occasions now, but it's still very much a question of luck as to how well they're fastened. I've only removed from scrappers and have never been tempted to try it on one of my runners. I have one pair reserved for my own car in case of damage, swapped a pair with the doc for his "phoenix" rebuild, and just have a scabby grey pair left (cracked during storage, but kept for reference).
Looking at the one I have in front of me , the main adhesive on the plastic itself is black, but I think there's another layer of whiteish adhesive under that on the wheel arch. The crucial point for finding out whether you'll get anywhere is the top horizontal edge and the top trailing 45deg-angle section: these are only mildly "lipped", unlike the other edges.
At-your-own-risk advice: something like a long pallette knife or flat-bladed paint stripper blade can be very carefully inserted where I've indicated and very gentle but sustained outward pressure applied to see if there's any movement. Hot water first will probably help - the usual first step with plastic BX bodykit and badges.
If there's movement, you're in with a chance, and can continue with extremely gentle levering. If there isn't any hint of movement, don't bother: you'll break it.
As for refixing, your guess is as good as mine...
IF absolutely necessary for structural work and the like, they are potentially removable with considerable care, but it's not a casual undertaking. I've managed it on 3 separate occasions now, but it's still very much a question of luck as to how well they're fastened. I've only removed from scrappers and have never been tempted to try it on one of my runners. I have one pair reserved for my own car in case of damage, swapped a pair with the doc for his "phoenix" rebuild, and just have a scabby grey pair left (cracked during storage, but kept for reference).
Looking at the one I have in front of me , the main adhesive on the plastic itself is black, but I think there's another layer of whiteish adhesive under that on the wheel arch. The crucial point for finding out whether you'll get anywhere is the top horizontal edge and the top trailing 45deg-angle section: these are only mildly "lipped", unlike the other edges.
At-your-own-risk advice: something like a long pallette knife or flat-bladed paint stripper blade can be very carefully inserted where I've indicated and very gentle but sustained outward pressure applied to see if there's any movement. Hot water first will probably help - the usual first step with plastic BX bodykit and badges.
If there's movement, you're in with a chance, and can continue with extremely gentle levering. If there isn't any hint of movement, don't bother: you'll break it.
As for refixing, your guess is as good as mine...
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
- Philip Chidlow
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- maxgreenwood
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- Rob_e (UK)
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I did manage to get one off on mine, to try and fix the rust underneath. I just leaved and pulled it off, It was quite well stuck on; but it sounds like I was lucky and mine came off in one piece.
I have not put it back on yet so don't know what I am going to use. The original stuff, I though looked a bit like those sort of double sided adhesive foam pads; only with much stronger glue.
Rob
I have not put it back on yet so don't know what I am going to use. The original stuff, I though looked a bit like those sort of double sided adhesive foam pads; only with much stronger glue.
Rob
BX19 GTi 8v 89 227k
- DLM
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Recent scruffy diesel n/a estate - "The Red Shed" - is no longer mine. - x 9
That's the white adhesive I referred to above. The black "adhesive" (a sort of rubberised substance) is attached to the inside of the plastic stone-guard in a widely-spread layer (2-3mm thick) about 1cm in from the outer non-lipped edges but closer to the lipped edges : thick enough to allow contact with the pads that are fitted direct to the bodywork.The original stuff, I though looked a bit like those sort of double sided adhesive foam pads; only with much stronger glue.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
- ken newbold
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