JAMMED KNOBS!

BX Tech talk
tim leech

JAMMED KNOBS!

Post by tim leech » Tue Dec 06, 2005 9:46 pm

It seems a common fault on bx models that the heater control knob seizes solid! I know 2 of my cars suffer with this and no matter what i do they wont move! Have broken one of the knobs so far so not wanting to do them both!

What causes this and is there a easy way to fix it, have taken the dash to bits but cant get at the cable!

User avatar
Ian_Fearn
Spender lotta cash on Citroens
Posts: 2231
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2005 9:51 pm
Location: Derbyshire

Post by Ian_Fearn » Tue Dec 06, 2005 10:29 pm

This is a common problem caused by the valve underneath the steering column seizing up.

In my case it seized through lack of use and sludge for coolant.

After a coolant change, some wd40 on the linkages and some manual opening and closing it did loosen right up.
Over and out from me

jeremy
Over 2k
Posts: 2112
Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 2:58 am
Location: Hampshire UK

Post by jeremy » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:58 am

Kept my water valve free for the last 6 years by simply spraying it with silicon - regularily - about every 18 months!

jeremy

tim leech

Post by tim leech » Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:53 am

Wheres this valve then guys? Under the steering column, do I need to take it to bits or can u see it If i poke my head unerneath.

Thanks

jeremy
Over 2k
Posts: 2112
Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 2:58 am
Location: Hampshire UK

Post by jeremy » Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:02 am

Up besides the clutch pedal - over the tunnel on the side of the heater casing - you should be able to see a bowden cable and some plastic gears and - yes - the water valve at the top. Once you've found it you'll see why I use a silicon spray - which makes less mess of the carpet than WD 40 and also seems to stay in place and is probably better for any rubber bits in the valev (gland?)

jeremy

tim leech

Post by tim leech » Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:14 am

Thanks jeremy, another job to do when the weather permits!

Regards

Stewart (oily!)
1K Away
1K Away
Posts: 1604
Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 6:23 pm
Location: North Wales

Post by Stewart (oily!) » Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:51 pm

I used to have a BX customer who came to me to turn his heater on in Autumn and back off again in early summer, once the thing is moving its a case of use it or lose it.
Stewart
TZD 19 TD one of the few
Xantia Td estate, going soft

User avatar
Dollywobbler
Over 2k
Posts: 3940
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:25 pm
Location: Wales

Post by Dollywobbler » Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:40 pm

Is this the Hot/Cold control? Mine just springs back to hot again - but it isn't actually that hot either!

Might get out there right now and see if I can free it off as it's already bloomin' cold out there!

Ian

User avatar
Dollywobbler
Over 2k
Posts: 3940
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:25 pm
Location: Wales

Post by Dollywobbler » Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:59 pm

Right. Been there. Done that. Hurt my fingers and back!

And failed to free it up anymore. I'll leave my grease to soak but I'm not hopeful. Any ideas what I can do? Need more heat now (max heat equals the penultimate red sector at the moment) and I'll need to shut it off in the summer (goes around to six o clock the other way!).

Ian

User avatar
ken newbold
Over 2k
Posts: 4408
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 10:53 pm
x 5

Post by ken newbold » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:17 pm

Dont force it whatever you do. Or you'll end up with no heat and one very nasty little job to do.
Sounds like Tims already got this one.

Question for the very technically minded. Why do Citroen cut this heater valve cable to the last 1000th of an inch. The other two cables aren't too bad, But changing a heater control panel is a nightmare because of this one cable.
They think it's all over, it is now!

User avatar
Dollywobbler
Over 2k
Posts: 3940
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:25 pm
Location: Wales

Post by Dollywobbler » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:39 pm

Glad you said that Ken as I'm the sort who loses his rag and ends up destroying stuff! Some heat is better than no heat!!

But what can be done to free it off?

Ian

User avatar
ken newbold
Over 2k
Posts: 4408
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 10:53 pm
x 5

Post by ken newbold » Wed Dec 07, 2005 10:00 pm

As has been said earlier, change the coolant and apply silicone spray to the valve/tap itself whilst gently trying to move it back and forth from the control knob.
They think it's all over, it is now!

User avatar
Dollywobbler
Over 2k
Posts: 3940
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:25 pm
Location: Wales

Post by Dollywobbler » Wed Dec 07, 2005 10:14 pm

Coolant was changed with the 'stat at the weekend (not strictly speaking necessary but I like to change it frequently ie 2 years).

Have sprayed some lube but no joy yet. I'll give it another go at the weekend although I may be in the Peaks...

Ian

User avatar
Oscar
1K Away
1K Away
Posts: 1091
Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:07 pm
Location: Driving a ZX

Post by Oscar » Fri Dec 09, 2005 11:39 am

Yangreen - there are two cables on the back of that knob which balance each other - sounds like one of yours has come off.

If you ever find yourself in the position of having to refit heater control cables, you'll get frustrated pretty quickly.

After 40 minutes of swearing, I approached it differently. I took a half-inch wide, twelve inch long strip of gaffer tape and overlapped it on the cable, sticking it to itself to make a six inch auxiliary handle. I built up several layers like that to make it strong enough to cope with the leverage necessary. This enabled me to get enough force on the cable to slip it over the knob and hold it in place while it secured it.
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"

User avatar
Dollywobbler
Over 2k
Posts: 3940
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:25 pm
Location: Wales

Post by Dollywobbler » Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:17 pm

Hi Oscar

I think the "tap" is actually seized as it barely moves so not convinced it is a cable issue.

Needs another "lube" session!

Ian