ABS driveshafts

RxBX · Post by **RxBX** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:25 pm

mountainmanUK wrote:Hi Dave,
Here's the linky for the cheap eBay driveshafts that I posted for someone earlier It's still "active" so I presume they still have stock!

DLM wrote: Thanks - I have a complete ABS CV joint already myself, was reminding Sam the ebay item exists.

Dave and Dave,
Sam Is after a drive-shaft or CV joint kit fitted with ABS !
The 'linky' to the E-bay item list only non ABS drive-shafts :-

Citroen, BX, 1.8
17 (Turbo), Diesel, Hatchback, 8v, (non ABS) Driveshafts 05/1988 - 12/1993 Front RH
17 (Turbo), Diesel, Estate, 8v, (non ABS) Driveshafts 05/1988 - 07/1995 Front RH

Citroen, BX, 1.9
GTi, Petrol, Hatchback, FWD, 8v, Manual, Auto (non ABS) Driveshafts 08/1986 - 12/1993 Front RH

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:46 pm

Jaba wrote

Buy a non abs shaft and swap the CV joint over from your existing shaft

That was the reason for the non-ABS shaft linky!

I guess it depends on which joint is knackered?
If it's the inner, then fitting a non-ABS shaft (brand new) but with the outer ABS CV joint swapped over from Sam's existing wonky shaft, should (in theory) work!
If it's the outer ABS joint that's goosed, then a new ABS joint will still need to be sourced.

Swapping outer CV joints is not a particularly "risky" job! After all, that's what you need to do, just to replace the rubber gaiters!!

EDIT:

A quick eBay search just revealed this.....

BX CV Joint (ABS-90)

...or this....

another BX CV joint (ABS)

RxBX · Post by **RxBX** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:31 pm

mountainmanUK wrote: I guess it depends on which joint is knackered?
If it's the inner, then fitting a non-ABS shaft (brand new) but with the outer ABS CV joint swapped over from Sam's existing wonky shaft, should (in theory) work!
If it's the outer ABS joint that's goosed, then a new ABS joint will still need to be sourced.

Good point Dave !
I've just read thro' the thread again and he's not stated whether it's the inner or outer joint that's failed he'll need to post, to let us know as to which one it is and then work out what are the best options ?
BTW the second 'linky' is the same CV kit that I had put in my previous posting !
Hopefully it's just the outer CV joint as you and 'docchevron1472' have stated it's a relatively easy job to do in situ', you just need to hold on firmly to the drive-shaft when thumping the old CV joint off with a hammer especially if it's the nearside one !
Because if it is, the inner drive-shaft end can easily pop out off the gearbox and you'll loose some gearbox oil, so it's also best to have a clean container to catch any if that happens to put back unless you have plenty of new BV oil at hand (if this is a manual gearbox) also maybe a good time to check/change the gearbox oil if it's not been done for a good while whilst working in the vicinity and of course if the gearbox/drive-shaft OILSEALS are leaking then they would need replacing, so then you would need to drain the gear box oil anyway !

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:41 pm

....a perfect example of how a smallish job on a BX can easily turn into a full weekend's work!!

tbh...I've always found that the outer joint "knocks off" pretty easily, so much so that I've usually managed to hold the middle of the shaft whilst hitting the joint, so that the inner joint doesn't "pop out" spilling its guts 'n needles everywhere!!

The gearbox diff seals are pretty cheap from GSF. IIRC I replaced both for around £6 the last time I had the box off.

SamWise · Post by **SamWise** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:28 pm

DLM wrote:
What happened to the eBay driveshafts at a reasonable price someone pointed you in the direction of?

I realised, fortunately before I pushed the button, that they were non ABS (I hadn't specified in my previous discussion, not knowing at that point that it was an issue). I know of a cheaper source of non ABS shafts!

SamWise · Post by **SamWise** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:32 pm

I'm pretty sure I need the whole shaft (but maybe the discussion above is about DLMs issue?). I've had failing CV joints before, and they've never caused the alarming juddering I've been enjoying.

RxBX · Post by **RxBX** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:45 pm

SamWise wrote: I've had failing CV joints before, and they've never caused the alarming juddering I've been enjoying.

Hi Sam,
Is the juddering :-

a) On taking up the drive only.
b) Constant and when driving roughly a straight ahead position.
c) Just when cornering.

Also have you checked the condition of the lower/rear engine/gearbox mount ?
If the rubber has perished and is starting to disintegrate that could cause juddering on taking up the drive.
Also check the tightness of the nut/bolt's which are bolted thro' both ends of the yoke bracket.
If the nut/bolt on the yoke bracket which bolts onto the engine/gearbox end appears a bit on the loose side it could have worn an elongation in the hole's on the 'Tang' ends and if so could give a clunking noise/feel when accelerating hard and decelerating, a replacement bracket would be necessary to cure this symptom unless your good at welding/filing up the worn edges of the elongated holes.
You only need slight elongation of these holes to get a clunking noise so you really do need them torquing up correctly if these nuts/bolts have been disturbed for what ever reason !

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:24 pm

Fit a new non-ABS shaft for not alot of money.

Bridge ABS lamp up on dash with oil pressure lamp in top lefft corner (provided you have said gauge). Both come on and do a check with ignition and then go out, as per MOT testers requirements. Disconnect ABS and enjoy lamp/judder free driving.

Simples!

Matt H · Post by **Matt H** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:09 am

Kitch wrote: Bridge ABS lamp up on dash with oil pressure lamp in top lefft corner (provided you have said gauge). Both come on and do a check with ignition and then go out, as per MOT testers requirements.

I'll have to give this a go if the 16v fails its MoT next week due to the ABS bulb missing.

It's usually 50/50 as to if they notice/care but hey, good to have a bodge planned just in case!

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:56 am

Apologies if I've muddied the waters here in traditional BXclub thread deviation fashion.

I've changed driveshafts and gaiters before (hence have removed outer CV joints before, just needed a reminder. Wouldn't touch the gaiters pre-split for "easier" fitting with a bargepole as they're such a massive kludge.

I've also been there grovelling on the floor for the intermediate-joint needle bearings from the long shaft before now too, and have gearbox seals ready for the next time the complete shafts come out.