Uh oh....

retrodriver · Post by **retrodriver** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:38 pm

a friend of mine runs a 205 1.6 that revs to 8.5k, its set up for racing and to be fair has a different cam and is on carbs, aswell as a proper exhaust manifold etc but the engine is lasting well and the bottom end is standard because he broke his 1st bottom end which was balanced up etc.

I do like to take these things as far as they will go though, im not saying its not my fault by any stretch but to be honest im not fussed if I break it, its only an engine and ive broken a few on tracks, grass racing etc lol and its more fun if its something a bit 'standard' just whack a new one in.

I used to drive around in a Granada with a leaky rad, blown headgasket and knackered autobox, it was fun to see how far we could get it....

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:26 pm

Ah, see going the tuned route gives different results, although a tuned XU 8v would also be pretty pointless IMO given that the difference between an 8v 1.9 and a 16v 1.9 is fairly vast to begin with.

retrodriver · Post by **retrodriver** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:35 pm

true but just because its illogical doesnt mean it shouldnt be done! I think we are going to go down the modded engine route with mine, there is something that appeals about a standard looking 16 TGS with a hot twin carb 1.9 8v under the bonnet! should be able to get near 150bhp with a cam and some proper tuning in there. So obviously its no longer for sale! It might be a first too! obviously I want a valver aswell but I want to start with a humble base for modding, strange I know! Plus 8v parts are easier and cheaper to come by so no need to be scared of breaking it.....

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:50 pm

Ah the lengths people go to to be different

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:55 pm

retrodriver wrote:there is something that appeals about a standard looking 16 TGS with a hot twin carb 1.9 8v under the bonnet!

I can see your point entirely, this started life with a standard 1.6 under the bonnet. 74 rampaging wild horses!

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:33 am

I needed valve stem seals at about 120/130k on one of the two 16RS's I've owned, though I I've known of others where they needed replacement earlier (80k-ish). As Kitch says, it's a long-term wear issue, and I'd personally say it's something to expect sooner or later with an XU engine.

Give it some more driving while to settle down after the aforementioned Italian service , then see what happens on acceleration after engine braking.

Just as a matter of interest, what oil are you using? A grade of oil that's too slippery has been known to cause oil-burning false alarms in a standard XU engine ...

I farmed the valve-stem-seal job out to a 16v-owning specialist, who did the job without taking the head off by using compressed air in each pot in turn to stop the valves from dropping. The seals themselves cost pennies, or used to.

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:20 pm

mat_fenwick wrote:
retrodriver wrote:there is something that appeals about a standard looking 16 TGS with a hot twin carb 1.9 8v under the bonnet!
I can see your point entirely, this started life with a standard 1.6 under the bonnet. 74 rampaging wild horses!

Haha, yeah but to be fair your Hyundai started out slow and now has a V8 shoe-horned under it. A BX 16 to BX 19 conversion, twin carbs or not isn't exactly on the same level

retrodriver · Post by **retrodriver** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:42 pm

DLM wrote:I needed valve stem seals at about 120/130k on one of the two 16RS's I've owned, though I I've known of others where they needed replacement earlier (80k-ish). As Kitch says, it's a long-term wear issue, and I'd personally say it's something to expect sooner or later with an XU engine.

Give it some more driving while to settle down after the aforementioned Italian service , then see what happens on acceleration after engine braking.

Just as a matter of interest, what oil are you using? A grade of oil that's too slippery has been known to cause oil-burning false alarms in a standard XU engine ...

I farmed the valve-stem-seal job out to a 16v-owning specialist, who did the job without taking the head off by using compressed air in each pot in turn to stop the valves from dropping. The seals themselves cost pennies, or used to.

I am currently using 20w 50 in it due to the fact its pretty warm and I anticipated hard use in hot weather, plus its almost cheaper than unleaded per litre!

Kitch, if only I could fit a proper engine in there I would!

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:15 pm

You can....

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:06 am

I agree with kitch, when you buy a BX16V you get more than just a more powerful motor.

You get better brakes, fatter wheels, suspension designed for the extra loadings, nicer seats, and you can get insurance without bending the truth.

A BX16V is pretty 'stealthy' anyway, because almost no one knows what it is.

Taking the badges off is much quicker & cheaper than rebuilding a lesser power BX!

Fit BX RD badges on for extra effect.

Mike

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:19 am

Yeah, my 16v is seen by others as a ratty old tat-box, which only adds to the fun! It's not exactly in your face...it's still a BX.

Ph1 16v is ultimate sleeper though

Post by **Tim Leech** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:38 am

Alex why dont you buy that grey P2 16v advertised on here for £700? FAR FAR easier than swopping engines.

retrodriver · Post by **retrodriver** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:07 pm

well im in a bit of a bind, I cant in good conscience sell my BX for top money with a smokey engine without a certain amount of blagging.. likewise I dont have the space for 3 cars and I dont really want to be spending that much money without getting some back for mine so im unsure of my next steps really. At least if I do something with mine I wont lose all the money ive put into it already!