Started today first flick of the key! Seems that the timing pin theory was correct.
This I have learnt : do NOT use a junior hacksaw handle in the flywheel timing hole ( as suggested in the sticky about Diesel cambelts), make sure it's a proper 8mm steel rod or drill bit with no play whatsoever as this is critical. If all the pins/screws are tight with no play the cambelt is straightforward.
This could have been expensive and disastrous for me but luckily I had all the spares lying about and it only cost me extra time. How can we learn without our failures?
Cam belt issues
- mat_fenwick
- Moderator
- Posts: 7326
- Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:08 pm
- Location: North Wales
- x 19
When I changed the cam belt, I didn't lock the flywheel, as I wasn't even able to find the hole. I left it un-locked but just took care not to move it. It's quite heavy after all. Most important thing is that when fitting the belt, you do the bit where the tensioner is last, so that all the teeth are perfectly in place around the whole thing.
But true, I guess having the actual rod would be safe
But true, I guess having the actual rod would be safe
Carl
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
Cam Belt Issues
David Rutherford is essentially correct in his reply concerning the valve
stems.You were lucky in this respect.
I had a similar experiece with a snapped belt. Camshaft snapped in 3
places,centre bearing broken in two,and 3 valves dinged. Had to buy a
cyl.hesd from a scrapper who charged me £80! Still,needs must,etc.
I salvaged the valves and the centre bearing from this,since it wasnt
good enough for a straight swap.
To cut a long story short,after I"d checked the new cam rotated with the
two outer bearings torqued down,I scraped the centre bearing to fit,then
finished off with a half round file and fine emery .Just like it grew there!!
It helps if youve got the right tools and a workshop I suppose.
When refitting the belt, locking the timing holes tight is a must.3 M8 bolts
and an M8 drill did mine. I took the opportunity to decoke and regrind
the valves as well and change the water pump and tensioners.
Car runs like a dream.Glad to see yours does as well.
Richard
stems.You were lucky in this respect.
I had a similar experiece with a snapped belt. Camshaft snapped in 3
places,centre bearing broken in two,and 3 valves dinged. Had to buy a
cyl.hesd from a scrapper who charged me £80! Still,needs must,etc.
I salvaged the valves and the centre bearing from this,since it wasnt
good enough for a straight swap.
To cut a long story short,after I"d checked the new cam rotated with the
two outer bearings torqued down,I scraped the centre bearing to fit,then
finished off with a half round file and fine emery .Just like it grew there!!
It helps if youve got the right tools and a workshop I suppose.
When refitting the belt, locking the timing holes tight is a must.3 M8 bolts
and an M8 drill did mine. I took the opportunity to decoke and regrind
the valves as well and change the water pump and tensioners.
Car runs like a dream.Glad to see yours does as well.
Richard