Just bought my first BX and........

BX Tech talk
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

MULLEY wrote:

Infact on a different forum some people have been using the stuff in sole preference to lhm for their duration of ownership with apparently no problems. If you're worried, just do a 1000 miles & see how you get on, i've not noticed any undue problems, the drips i have now are the exact same when there was lhm sloshing through my car.
That really makes no sense Mulley. The purpose of this stuff is to rinse the system and hold the crud in suspension so you can get it out. It doesn't have the lubricating properties of LHM so you will be inducing higher wear in the moving parts. The suspended crud will eventually abrade the moving parts and seals if left in long term and cause premature failures.

It's horses for courses! One is for rinsing, the other for general wellbeing of the system!
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kiwi
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Post by kiwi »

As I understood it the recommended time is 5000km (3000miles) to be efficant at cleaning the system? after that t has done its job and should be changed. Given Hydraflush (easier to spell) is more expensive than LHM and also needs to be changed more it defeats the purpose to keep putting it in more than the 36,000 miles (have I got that correct?) recommended as the Life of LHM?

The question is after running a Car for 100,000 miles on Hydraflush will it be in better condition than one thats using LHM? Hard to say really.
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Aerodynamica
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Post by Aerodynamica »

I thought that Hydraflush was just LHM with detergents added abd the green dye missing.
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Post by MULLEY »

I never said it made any sense, try finding those threads & have a good read way2go. I go with what you said Graeme, its just lhm with a cleaning detergent, so i dont see why it would cause more wear & tear. Having handled both, they appear to be slippery oil, just a different colour. Who knows? Either way i'll be going back to lhm after i've done a few thousand miles just as this seems to be the recommended practice.
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
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1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
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1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

MULLEY wrote:its just lhm with a cleaning detergent, so i dont see why it would cause more wear & tear.
I believe you will find if you translate the rincage bit of Hydraurincage that that is the operative part of the product name which means rinsing - try Babelfish, French to English & verify yourself!
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Aerodynamica
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Post by Aerodynamica »

Way2go wrote:
MULLEY wrote:its just lhm with a cleaning detergent, so i dont see why it would cause more wear & tear.
I believe you will find if you translate the rincage bit of Hydraurincage that that is the operative part of the product name which means rinsing - try Babelfish, French to English & verify yourself!
So that it has rinsing properties and is intended as a rinsing substance it MUST have no oil properties?

I would think other. Possibly it had the properties of LHM and also cleaning properties - is this POSSIBLE??

Yes. Also possible is the thought that Hydraflush is only temporary to LHM because of the potential to gather grime in the system that you'd otherwise want to remove.

I still have my doubts about Hydraflush though since the black grub that appears in LHM over time and miles is caused by degradation of the black rubber parts dislodging micro particles of black stuff from their surfaces into the LHM through surface shearing (unless anyone knows otherwise). I'd not call this dirt as such and consider it something that will remove by an LHM change (until the next time). What other dirt can get into the hydraulic circuit?

With the high pressure side cleaned of the black LHM via new fluid, the only parts that have black crap in them long term are the low pressure and 'bleed' parts such as the vent lines of the rubber gaiters and the height correctors' damping valves (notorious as lowest points of the circuit and dead ends.) but of course, hydraflush doesn't deal with these parts. It also can't do anything for the brake supply pipes to calipers - these can be cleaned by simply bleeding them well after changing the LHM.

So unless anyone has another angle on this I think I'll give Hydraurincage a miss in future.
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

Aerodynamica wrote:
Way2go wrote:
MULLEY wrote:its just lhm with a cleaning detergent, so i dont see why it would cause more wear & tear.
I believe you will find if you translate the rincage bit of Hydraurincage that that is the operative part of the product name which means rinsing - try Babelfish, French to English & verify yourself!
So that it has rinsing properties and is intended as a rinsing substance it MUST have no oil properties?
No, I didn't say that but I would think that the lubricating properties would be reduced to the minimum required to keep the system safe over a short period to enable the active dissolving & rinsing agents to do their job efficiently. Changing back to LHM is prescribed in it's use!

After all, hydraulics can work on water (as the name implies) and the only reason that oil is used is because water would go manky with rust issues and provide no lubrication to the seals and moving parts. For a period, water would work OK before problems set in. (I am not suggesting trying this in the BX :) )
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Cresco750
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Post by Cresco750 »

On one of the DS forums soemone was davocating simply pouring a bottle of engine flush in with the LHM and acheive the same results as Hydraurincage. The main advantages of this method, assuming it worked would be: engine flush is more readily available (in this part of the world, anyway), about 1/10th the cost, and the LHM doesn't have to be drained out to begin with.
Any thoughts?
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