Clutch drag?

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:59 pm

Sorry, me again.

When I get to work after a nice motorway blat, I can almost guarantee that it'll crunch, even if I really ram the clutch pedal down. The rest of the time, absolutely fine. Any idea what's going wrong? No other gearchange issues.

scarecrow · Post by **scarecrow** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:39 pm

Maybe the oil is losing viscosity when it's hot affecting the synchromesh, or maybe the synchromesh just doesn't work so good when it's hot.

I'm completely out of my depth now so I'll eagerly await the following knowledgeable answers, as should you

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kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:37 pm

Either

A, Clutch needs adjustment. (Refer to Haynes Manual) according to the manual you "may" need to do that every 6,000 miles. I tend to have that done by my local mechs when it goes in for its biannual wof.

B, The Gearbox oil neeeds changing or is the wrong viscosity. when was the last time you did this or have you ever changed that?

C, You just need to push your clutch pedal down because your leg has been relaxed after such a cruise on a open stretch of Motorway.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:57 pm

The oil was changed last service. The clutch bite is quite low, so that's a suspect. Prob done 8000 since it was adjusted.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:55 pm

Well in that case first port of call is adjust that clutch

Second port of call is was the right viscosity of Gearbox Oil used?

scarecrow · Post by **scarecrow** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:34 am

I can remember the day my old Meteor ate its first and second gear synchromesh - a minute of loud clacking and then the crunching gear changes. I mention it because the symptoms you describe are very similar to how mine was for a while before.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:22 pm

This is only affecting reverse through Scarecrow, which I guess doesn't have any synchromesh. Service was done by a specialist, so I reckon it's got the right grade in it. Clutch adjustment looks like the thing. How is this done? Must get around to buying a Haynes BOL...

scarecrow · Post by **scarecrow** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:57 pm

I would ask your mechanic to diagnose the problem - it's not something I think anyone can accurately diagnose via the forum.

I just got my manual from ebay for £2.74 including postage! There's plenty of others:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Citroen-BX-Owners ... 4cedf97e8d

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:07 pm

cor, thanks for the link!

Post by **Tim Leech** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:34 pm

Get him to stick a new cable on at the same time Ian if I were you mate for what they cost.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:57 pm

Well, as I finished early today, I was going to have a gander, but it's absolutely hurling it down. Rubbish!

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:23 pm

Dollywobbler wrote:This is only affecting reverse through Scarecrow, which I guess doesn't have any synchromesh. Service was done by a specialist, so I reckon it's got the right grade in it. Clutch adjustment looks like the thing. How is this done? Must get around to buying a Haynes BOL...

That paints a whole new picture

The way you posted originally I figured you were refering to ALL Gears after the car had warmed up. Never would have crossed my mind about reverse when you mentioned motorway blats.

Well if you get this sorted I have a similer problem in the TZS of not being able to engage reverse very easily. Since you dont use reverse not really been a bother for me.

macplaxton · Post by **macplaxton** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:39 pm

I've had a Pug that had sometimes iffy gear selection (harder than it should be to put into gear) and it was supposedly adjusted by someone else. Anyway it was little better and eventually it went away.

Then the clutch died completely. Drove back from Newry without it.

What had been happening was the individual fingers in the centre of the clutch had been breaking their tips off one-by-one and this affected the release of it. When they'd all given up there was no release action.

Adjust the cable. If that doesn't cure it, or it comes back. It's time to do the clutch.

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:47 pm

From experience, once you start having to adjust the clutch, it's a good sign that the clutch is on it's way out

Most times it's the thrust/release bearing that's seizing up under load and burning it's way through the clutch fingers.

The good news is, it'll be like driving a new car once it has a new clutch.

scarecrow · Post by **scarecrow** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:49 pm

notchy reverse on a 19 diesel is pretty common (has been on mine anyway). I've found that by lifting the clutch to biting point as you select reverse works every time without any crunching.