repairing sills damaged by car jacks

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Fri Apr 16, 2010 4:03 pm

Hello once again.

the right sill on my BX is dented because some moron probably dropped the car on a carjack.

Is there any other way of repairing this (road safety inspector wants it done), other then buying a new one and welding it on? I doubt its even available anymore. what a royal pain this is.

I gave my BX to a dealer specifically for this because the time window for a MOT recheck is 2 weeks, but he failed to do it saying all the wagon-makers were busy. is it possible to fix over the weekend?

thanks.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Fri Apr 16, 2010 4:39 pm

Is it the seam at the bottom that is damaged, or the curved area further up? If it's the latter it might be possible to screw in some self tapping screws and lever out the dent with a claw hammer, then get the holes welded up again fairly easily.
Any chance of a photo to have a better idea how bad it is?
What a waste of time they didn't let you know sooner!

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:26 pm

The car is still at the dealer, I'll pick it up tomorrow morning.

But yeah it's the curved area that stretches from the front to the rear wheels between the seam at the bottom and the beginning of the colored door parts.

It's not *that* bad, though there even is a small hole and two ugly scratches making it look like godzilla had his claws poked into it. It's right in the middle where the seam has these weird hook-like things.

Self tapping screws sound like a splendid Idea! I'll see if I can arrange a welder. It *should* be possible to get this done fairly quick I guess.

It's gonna be a busy sunday!

Thanks again

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Sat Apr 17, 2010 9:18 am

if you can get the car high enough in the air, you migh be able to use a slide hammer to pull the dentted section back out, then get the tear weldded,

TB2 wrote
"these weird hook-like things. "

these are were you attatch the original car jack to

regards malcolm

NZ16v · Post by **NZ16v** » Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:52 am

In the world of modern technology, you probably know soneone with access to a computer-controlled plasma cutter...get a template to them and they can bang em out of 4-6mm steel in literally 20 mins, including computer time. We use this thing at work (Weta Workshop-Halo Warthog, District9 Hiluxes) and swear by it. then its a simple slitting disc to remove damaged mounts, and a clean up and wedl of the new ones. Afternoons work tops!

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:47 pm

A slide hammer! I didn't even know such a tool existed

I'll see if I can get one. Will ring up a friend later to see if he has one and if I can borrow his welder.

NZ16v: get a template? What template. Do you mean they'd be able to make a new sill? I'm not sure if I know someone with access to such tools.

Well, this is the damage:

NZ16v · Post by **NZ16v** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:57 pm

Sorry yeah i thought the tabs were bent or shot. MIne are stuffed! A slide hammer/ weld repair looks the go...

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:21 am

it looks in your picys someone has had the car slipp of its jack,

also looks like the bottom seem/lip is rolled outwards, if this is the case you will be able to sort most of it by knocking the seem back down with a hammer, then if needed re/weld any split

regards malcolm

Post by **Tim Leech** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:59 am

My 19TZI has suffered the same fate at the front end of the sill (not in my ownership), a fresh coat of black smoothrite on the whole sill made it alot less noticeable.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:52 am

Reading through this thread I think that it would be a good idea to have a 'technical FAQ' sticky on the correct way to jack up and support a BX - with pictures too. And not in the Haynes style! This foxed me ( and slightly frightened me) when I first got my BX a few years back and I damaged the jacking points on my yellow one as a result.
Many people coming for the first time to the BX would appreciate this I think - with photos perhaps if someone's keen?

I suppose firstly there must be consensus on the correct way to do this. I do it thus : car in high then I lift under the middle of front subframe with a trolley jack, then put two stands either side of the subframe using two pieces of wood inbetween the car and the stands.

The back is harder to find a good alternative jacking point but once the front is supported as above it is less likely to topple off its stands which causes the damage that this thread concerns. So I lift from the middle jacking points, both sides at once using two jacks then put the stands under the 'axle', just in front of the rear wheels. This works fine for me.

I'm sure there's other ways but I think it would be good to do a sticky on this once we've got consensus.

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:28 am

toddao wrote:The back is harder to find a good alternative jacking point but once the front is supported as above it is less likely to topple off its stands which causes the damage that this thread concerns.

I have to disagree with that statement. Once one end of a car is up on axle stands, it's MORE likely that you will cause the car to fall off the stands while jacking up the other end. Jacking one end of a car with the other on it's wheels is reasonably safe and easy as the car cannot fall. Jacking up one end of the car while the other is on axle stands means there is always a risk of pulling the car off the stands.

I have in the past done a fairly extensive write-up on jacking up a BX. Granted, no pictures, but I had hoped the description was adequate.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 12:04 pm

It is a bit dodgy IMO to have the whole car supported on axle stands, although I've done it successfully several times. I would always put a few wheels under where I'm working just in case the car moves when you're heaving on something. Better to put the front on ramps and then lift up the rear but then you obviously can't take the front wheels off.
As I have a ready supply of trees, I have a series of non adjustable 'axle stands' for different vehicles, made from sections of tree trunk cut to the right lengths. Very stable and no damage to the underside of the vehicle. I'm not sure it would be the most practical solution for everyone though...
David, I do remember your guide you wrote to help Tourist I think. I'll try and find it to put in the Technical FAQ section.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 12:09 pm

David, that is exactly why I used the word 'consensus' - I did not pretend that this is the right way. It is how I have done it - without damage for the last couple of years. It is an improvement on my previous 'technique.'
If you can excavate your thread then that could possibly be the basis of the sticky - that is the problem - finding things which was the whole point of my suggestion.
Also, the reason that I suggested pictures was that not everyone knows the technical terms and words that are quite easily used by more experienced members.
When someone said 'subframe' when I first had my BX I had no idea what that was - we're not all experienced but want to learn.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:37 pm

Here's the thread Todd.

Jack be nimble

I think ideally it needs condensing down to be made a sticky so I will do that.
No one starts out in life with any knowledge, so hopefully things like this will be useful. I am embarrassed to think of jobs that I have done, not realising that a special tool (that I did not know existed) would make it so much easier.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:55 pm

Cheers Mat. Perhaps add the bit about the special Citroen tools i.e bits of trees! I too have used logs as there's quite a stack in the barn all cut and neatly stacked for the fire.
Maybe I will attempt the photo story in the classic repair manual style - freshly laundered clean overalls with spotless lillywhite hands. No one ever gets grubby working on cars!