[/url]CLutch adjustment.
CLutch adjustment.
The 1.9D car has, apparently, had a new clutch but there is some judder and the pedal is uncomfortably high. Does this clutch actuator/adjustment mechanism look kosher? To me, it does not look like the most elegant design - more like a diy bodge. I assumed that the long rod was bolted thru the arm on the right - but it drops right out when I release the cable and yank it!. The rod is ~60mm long - can anyone tell me if this is a standard setup and if so, does that rod look the right length? As it stands, there is no adjustment to be had so I'm thinking I need to loose some length in that rod. Steve
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[/url]the only home made bit is the threaded rod, as it it usualy a straight length of roc with domed ends,
it dose look a little longer than it should be,
the bolt at the left of that rod is the adjuster and the nut is usualy on the tail end of the adjuster bolt, this bolt has a dished head and there is a corisponding dish in the clutch fork which the rod just sits between, with only the load of the cable to hold it in place not at the kneck, so you could do wth unscrewing it from the actuator arm, remove the nut, re/fit the bolt then refit the nut on the other side of the arm to were it is in the picy, then lop off a cm or two from the rod,
when all set corectly and with a clutch in good condition the line through the adjuster bolt and rod should be quite straight,
regards malcolm
it dose look a little longer than it should be,
the bolt at the left of that rod is the adjuster and the nut is usualy on the tail end of the adjuster bolt, this bolt has a dished head and there is a corisponding dish in the clutch fork which the rod just sits between, with only the load of the cable to hold it in place not at the kneck, so you could do wth unscrewing it from the actuator arm, remove the nut, re/fit the bolt then refit the nut on the other side of the arm to were it is in the picy, then lop off a cm or two from the rod,
when all set corectly and with a clutch in good condition the line through the adjuster bolt and rod should be quite straight,
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Thanks - so the lock nut should be on the left of the rust coloured arm. I don't think the adjuster bolt is long enough to pass thru the arm. As it is in the photo, the adjuster does not protrude thru the arm.
So if what you say is correct, I need a longer adjuster bolt and a shorter rod between the cap of the adjuster and the clutch arm!
Anyone got a known good but spare adjuster bolt & intermediate rod?
Steve
So if what you say is correct, I need a longer adjuster bolt and a shorter rod between the cap of the adjuster and the clutch arm!
Anyone got a known good but spare adjuster bolt & intermediate rod?
Steve
i have got some adjuster bolts still attached to arms, and somewhere the rod as well, if i find the rod i will mesure it, then you can mod the threaded rod you have or make a new one out of a piece of rod and dome both ends,
as you say that adjuster bolt you have dose look a bit short, if you have the means of dishing a standerd 13mm bolt head, you can make one of those as well,
were abouts are you im in St Leonards on sea
East Sussex
regards malcolm
as you say that adjuster bolt you have dose look a bit short, if you have the means of dishing a standerd 13mm bolt head, you can make one of those as well,
were abouts are you im in St Leonards on sea
East Sussex
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
-
Turboalternator
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:22 pm
Clutch connecting pin and adjustment
Hallo Steve!
Refering to your photo -- On my car, as Malcolm says, the threaded stud is not threaded at all but a plain shaft with domed ends. One end of the shaft fits in the cup of the bolthead, (as your threaded one does), and the other end fits into a dimple in the clutch fork plate.
It looks to me that someone has improvised a "bodge" and replaced the plain shaft with a threaded stud that, in any case, appears to be too long, as stated by Malcolm.
The plain shaft is only held in place by tension and the fit in the fork dimple and bolt cup.
The part number for the plain shaft is 95 567 189 (10 Pk)
and
The part number for the bolt with the domed head is 2118.10 (5 Pk)
I think that Citroen still have some. However, be warned that they come in packs of 5 or 10 see above. I do have a spare one of each but they are brand new and I don't know how much I paid for them .. then there is the Postage.
Check that they are the same part numbers for your car.
If that helps you let me know. You can find out what the prices are, (with VAT), from a Citroen dealer and do the Maths.
Regards,
Refering to your photo -- On my car, as Malcolm says, the threaded stud is not threaded at all but a plain shaft with domed ends. One end of the shaft fits in the cup of the bolthead, (as your threaded one does), and the other end fits into a dimple in the clutch fork plate.
It looks to me that someone has improvised a "bodge" and replaced the plain shaft with a threaded stud that, in any case, appears to be too long, as stated by Malcolm.
The plain shaft is only held in place by tension and the fit in the fork dimple and bolt cup.
The part number for the plain shaft is 95 567 189 (10 Pk)
and
The part number for the bolt with the domed head is 2118.10 (5 Pk)
I think that Citroen still have some. However, be warned that they come in packs of 5 or 10 see above. I do have a spare one of each but they are brand new and I don't know how much I paid for them .. then there is the Postage.
Check that they are the same part numbers for your car.
If that helps you let me know. You can find out what the prices are, (with VAT), from a Citroen dealer and do the Maths.
Regards,
19 TRS Estate
In the past: 2CV, Dyane 4, GSA
Be faithful to your BX and she'll be faithful back
In the past: 2CV, Dyane 4, GSA
Be faithful to your BX and she'll be faithful back
-
Turboalternator
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:22 pm
there is never any spring in the area of rthat photo, but there is a spring usualy from the hole at the end of the clutch actuating arm, to the bracket the outter cable sits in,
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
-
Turboalternator
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:22 pm
The mysterious spring!
Hallo Malcolm!
As you know I've got issues with my clutch, (other post), and will probably need to replace my cable.
Thanks for pointing out its location and I'll look out for the spring as I did not notice any spring before.
What is the purpose of the spring?
Regards,
As you know I've got issues with my clutch, (other post), and will probably need to replace my cable.
Thanks for pointing out its location and I'll look out for the spring as I did not notice any spring before.
What is the purpose of the spring?
Regards,
19 TRS Estate
In the past: 2CV, Dyane 4, GSA
Be faithful to your BX and she'll be faithful back
In the past: 2CV, Dyane 4, GSA
Be faithful to your BX and she'll be faithful back
mind you get the correct cable, as i fitted a new one the one of my customers cars recently, on orddering it from my local factors they sent one for a TU engined BX 1.4,
when i questioned them as it looked wrong before fitting it they confirmed there caltalouge stated it was the corect one for make and modle of BX 1.6 TRI i needed it for,
even though i was sure it would not fit i tried to fit it and sure enough it was to short (inner and outter),
after haveing another dig in my new old stock i found i already had the right one,
the spring is only light duty and i think to stop the actuatting arm rattleing,
regards malcolm
when i questioned them as it looked wrong before fitting it they confirmed there caltalouge stated it was the corect one for make and modle of BX 1.6 TRI i needed it for,
even though i was sure it would not fit i tried to fit it and sure enough it was to short (inner and outter),
after haveing another dig in my new old stock i found i already had the right one,
the spring is only light duty and i think to stop the actuatting arm rattleing,
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Well I managed to get a replacement lever arm - the item with the screw adjuster in it in the photo which pivots around a bolt into the gearbox casing. Comparing the replacement with the one on my car, it is clear that my original has been welded up incorrectly & that is what causes the angles to be all wrong in the photo.
As citronut said, "when all set correctly and with a clutch in good condition the line through the adjuster bolt and rod should be quite straight, " and with the new adjuster mine are now. As to what's this all worth - well with the new lever i've lost most of the clutch judder on pull-away. Can't explain why but a nice result. So if you're reading this and have the same problem it's something to check. Steve
As citronut said, "when all set correctly and with a clutch in good condition the line through the adjuster bolt and rod should be quite straight, " and with the new adjuster mine are now. As to what's this all worth - well with the new lever i've lost most of the clutch judder on pull-away. Can't explain why but a nice result. So if you're reading this and have the same problem it's something to check. Steve
The light duty spring is fitted so that the clutch lever arm is in constant contact with the domed rod end and the gearbox crank/lever arm adjuster cup with the opposite end of the domed end rod (Which would reduce vibration/rattling).citronut wrote:.......................the spring is only light duty and i think to stop the actuating arm rattling,
regards malcolm
But if your unfortunate to have a clutch cable break on you whilst on the go this 'Domed end rod' should still be present as the light duty spring should keep the rod in situ, rather than it being released wherever the clutch cable failed (if this spring is not fitted) !
I hope thats cleared that up.
Also note that on the early (Diesel models) the crank lever arms tended to seize up and possibly bend/tear on the central pivot bush too, the later/modified ones had better bushing and a reinforcing rod welded between the main lever crank arm and the adjusting cup/arm.
RxBX
did you replace the rod at the same time as the arm,
as it is more likely this is what bought it all back into line,
the rod in your photo is fare to long,
RxBx wrote
"But if your unfortunate to have a clutch cable break on you whilst on the go this 'Domed end rod' should still be present as the light duty spring should keep the rod in situ, rather than it being released wherever the clutch cable failed (if this spring is not fitted) ! "
of coures i had forgoten that point,
regards malcolm
as it is more likely this is what bought it all back into line,
the rod in your photo is fare to long,
RxBx wrote
"But if your unfortunate to have a clutch cable break on you whilst on the go this 'Domed end rod' should still be present as the light duty spring should keep the rod in situ, rather than it being released wherever the clutch cable failed (if this spring is not fitted) ! "
of coures i had forgoten that point,
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Well it turned out that the judder although reduced was still annoying so i dug deeper and found this...
It's a knackered right hand engine mount from next to the timing belt.- see how the bottom stud has broken away. Looks like the bottom of the mount has simply disintegrated. Now previously, I had rocked the engine and convinced myself that this was okay. I'd even added a large shim behind one of the rubber buffers which I thought improved things too - but a new mount has transformed the car ! A tenner from GSF well spent.
So if your car is suffering from a harsh clutch and judder as you pull away - check the engine mount and for the time it takes, it's a five minute job to stick a trolley jack under the engine support the engine and whip off the alloy top to the mount to check it. Of course, if your suspension goes down as you are dojng this check then who knows what may break as you engine will be suspended on the trolley jack. So perhaps don't leave it in that state overnight and you should be okay. Steve
It's a knackered right hand engine mount from next to the timing belt.- see how the bottom stud has broken away. Looks like the bottom of the mount has simply disintegrated. Now previously, I had rocked the engine and convinced myself that this was okay. I'd even added a large shim behind one of the rubber buffers which I thought improved things too - but a new mount has transformed the car ! A tenner from GSF well spent.
So if your car is suffering from a harsh clutch and judder as you pull away - check the engine mount and for the time it takes, it's a five minute job to stick a trolley jack under the engine support the engine and whip off the alloy top to the mount to check it. Of course, if your suspension goes down as you are dojng this check then who knows what may break as you engine will be suspended on the trolley jack. So perhaps don't leave it in that state overnight and you should be okay. Steve