suspension

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sub777w
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suspension

Post by sub777w »

hi fitted new front spheres new ones from euro p sus still rock hrd an y idears :(
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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY »

Do they have any date stamps on them?

They may be brand new, but may have been sat on the shelf for years, in which case they may be as flat as pancakes. Have you tried opening up the bonnet & pushing down on the front crossmember to see if it's just the front struts that are sticking?

If you think its the spheres, just take them back & get some replacements that have been made recently.

When i replaced my front spheres this year, i rang gsf to see if they had any in stock, they said yes, i asked them to check the date stamps, one was about 6yrs old, the other 3. I said i wasn't happy to purchase those one's, could they order some new one's in. Once they'd got them, they rang me to let me know they were approx a couple of months old, so i bought them & haven't had any issues.

Whereabouts are you, i may have some spare spheres which are fine depending upon what model of car you have for a fraction of the price of new rubbish one's.
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

If it's not the spheres, it has to be the struts. :(
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Tim Leech
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Post by Tim Leech »

Had the same trouble with my 16TRS, changed the spheres and it was still very stiff, get the car on its highest position, jack it up and take the wheels of each side, slide the plastic strut gaitor up and clean the shiny telescopic bit with WD40 and a cloth and then coat it with lubricant and see if that cures it, it did for me.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
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Post by Linegeist »

What he ^^^^^ said! Works every time! :wink:
sub777w
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Post by sub777w »

MULLEY wrote:Do they have any date stamps on them?

They may be brand new, but may have been sat on the shelf for years, in which case they may be as flat as pancakes. Have you tried opening up the bonnet & pushing down on the front crossmember to see if it's just the front struts that are sticking?

If you think its the spheres, just take them back & get some replacements that have been made recently.

When i replaced my front spheres this year, i rang gsf to see if they had any in stock, they said yes, i asked them to check the date stamps, one was about 6yrs old, the other 3. I said i wasn't happy to purchase those one's, could they order some new one's in. Once they'd got them, they rang me to let me know they were approx a couple of months old, so i bought them & haven't had any issues.

Whereabouts are you, i may have some spare spheres which are fine depending upon what model of car you have for a fraction of the price of new rubbish one's.
dates are a couple of months old im in newcastle euro p arts give me some replacement ones still the same going to try and lube me struts with wd40.
sub777w
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Post by sub777w »

Linegeist wrote:What he ^^^^^ said! Works every time! :wink:
cheers will let you no wot happened :lol:
sub777w
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Post by sub777w »

Roverman wrote:Had the same trouble with my 16TRS, changed the spheres and it was still very stiff, get the car on its highest position, jack it up and take the wheels of each side, slide the plastic strut gaitor up and clean the shiny telescopic bit with WD40 and a cloth and then coat it with lubricant and see if that cures it, it did for me.
thanks for that :lol:
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Post by Linegeist »

sub777w wrote: ........ going to try and lube me struts with wd40.
No no no! :shock:

CLEAN 'em with the WD40, THEN lube them with proper lubricant.

I wiped mine with Hypoid gear oil, some folks prefer grease ... but WD40 isn't a lubricant. It's a water dispersant. :wink:
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MULLEY
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1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - SORN
1992 TZD Turbo Estate - SORN
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired - SORN
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN
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Post by MULLEY »

or use 3in1 oil
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
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Post by Defender110 »

Linegeist wrote:
sub777w wrote: ........ going to try and lube me struts with wd40.
No no no! :shock:

CLEAN 'em with the WD40, THEN lube them with proper lubricant.

I wiped mine with Hypoid gear oil, some folks prefer grease ... but WD40 isn't a lubricant. It's a water dispersant. :wink:

Need to disagree with you there Bob, WD40 is a lubricant (as below) It is a fine lubricant rather than a thick lubricant but still a lubricant. I personally often prefer lubricating with WD as it is not as sticky and isn't as big a dirt / grit trap that thicker lubricants are .You may have to lubricate more often with WD than you would a thick coating of Hypoid but personally on strutts I think I would prefer a regular prescision dose of WD to excessive sticky lubricants. (just a personal observation you understand)

Known as "the can with thousands of uses," WD-40® protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates just about anything. WD-40 is also great when it comes to cleaning grease, grime, and other marks from most surfaces.

THE FIVE BASIC FUNCTIONS:
LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts.

CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess bonding material.

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
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Post by Linegeist »

I take your point - but you could argue Kev, that water is a lubricant - it's used to suspend certain types of bearings and forms the basis of cutting fluids in engineering. However, I wouldn't bung it on my BX's struts.......

Put it this way, my other main hobby is shooting. One of the problems with going outdoors with a gun in the UK, is that they usually get dirty and wet. Guns that get dirty and wet have to be cleaned fairly quickly, otherwise the polished blueing on the action and barrel starts showing rust patches. What we usually do is wipe them down with an oily rag before we go out, then wipe them again when finished until such time as we can strip them down and clean/dry them properly.

On that basis, you'd think that WD40 would be in every shooter's Barbour pocket, right? Not so! Unless you spray half a pint all over the gun, WD40 is, in fact, so utterly useless at preventing rust damage to gun blueing, as well as being pretty useless for preventing metal to metal contact in breech locking mechanisms (some years ago, one of my rifles locked shut with a liuve round chambered, all because of 'stiction' caused by WD40) that we don't use the damned stuff at all - well, not if we value our rifles at any rate! :shock: It's why we use gun oil. :wink:

So, technically you're right. WD40 IS a lubricant - but then I suggest only on the same basis that clingfilm is a condom. :wink: :lol:
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2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - SORN
1992 TZD Turbo Estate - SORN
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired - SORN
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN
x 8

Post by MULLEY »

I personally can't see a problem in using wd40 if the struts are stuck fast. I would however once they've been freed off, wipe off as much of the wd40 as i could & then use a thicker oil. What you don't want to do is get wd40 into the lhm system, as that won't surely be doing it much good?
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
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Post by Defender110 »

Linegeist wrote:
Put it this way, my other main hobby is shooting. :lol:
Difference of oppinion over....Bob's right!
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Post by Mothman »

WD 40 is excellent bit of kit to spray on your bait whilst sea fishing too. Used it on many a conger bait and they seem to love it. Even tried it for Blue shark and caught them too.

Andy
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