alloy/steel wheel bolts, cautionary tale

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KevR
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alloy/steel wheel bolts, cautionary tale

Post by KevR »

Trolling along yesterday at about 60mph, big bang, catastrophic blowout of left front tyre (turns out my wife had clogged it on a sharp kerb a couple of weeks ago, must have weakened the carcass - I put the vibes down to a driveshaft needing changing, which it does).
No problem, pulled over to side, spare wheel out of cradle (anyone got a good fix for a seized cradle hanger thingy...), then realise that I've got alloy wheels and appropriate wheel bolts, and the spare is a standard steel one. I have four of the right bolts for that, handily in the tool box, which is at home... :oops:
Sod it, stick the steel wheel on, and keep winding the bolts in 'til they nip up - I'm sure I've done this before. Wheel on, go to pull away, big clang and no movement. Seems at the front, the bolts are long enough to go through the other side of the hub and foul the main casting. :oops: :oops: :oops:
Eventually got brain in gear, remembered the front wheels are alloy, but the rears are steel. Remove two bolts from each rear wheel and replace with alloy-specific ones (no problem with hub clearance at the rear), use the four liberated steel ones on the spare, and bob's your uncle.

Note to self: keep the damn toolbox in the car, or at least keep a spare set of bolts under the seat or something...
Who knows, once day I might get round to having a matching set of wheels on the car, if I can ever manage to wear out the damn Mich Energy tyres on the rear wheels (I think they must be made of teflon - last forever but no grip at all).
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B-Hive
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good heads up

Post by B-Hive »

Thanks for that cos i have alloys too and steel spare. If i blew a front tyre i would most likely have gone through the same issue but not actually had any shorter bolts to use..I will go put a set in the bits box in the boot right now..
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KevR
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Post by KevR »

The 'proper' steel spare for alloy-wheeled cars has bosses welded on so you can use the same bolts. I've got one of those but in the various swaps of wheels between cars forgot all obout the difference. The other way round it is to use washers, but I don't think that's very good, as the standard steel wheels are 'centred' by the taper on the proper bolts, which wouldn't be the case using alloy wheel bolts and washers.
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!
Mothman

Post by Mothman »

Thanks for this info bud,

I too have a steel spare. ile now go sort some of the correct bolts.
Great forum, such a fantastic source of info, honoured to be a member.

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Post by Vanny »

Strangely this is exactly how ive been locking the hub to remove drive shafts for year, simply wind a few alloy wheel bolts (nearly) all the way through so they lock on the hub. I might add i have two mullered alloy wheel bolts for the purpose!
KevR
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Post by KevR »

Excellent idea!
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!
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