Leaky sump plug!

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ed4ferrets
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Leaky sump plug!

Post by ed4ferrets » Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:06 pm

Not exactly a technical problem perhaps but annoying all the same :x
No matter how I tightened the plug it still dripped oil, I replaced copper washer with new one from gsf and the damn thing still drips! The sump has had a jack under it at some stage and is somewhat dented, could this have any influence? I had assumed it was due to the old washer being well and truly squished and that a new one would cure it :cry: .
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Post by Mr B » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:53 pm

Get some PTFE tape and wrap it around the thead, it does sound like the sump is distorted.

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Jaba
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Post by Jaba » Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:01 pm

I would follow up mr b's idea and suggest unscrewing the plug half way or a bit more and wrapping the tape on counter clockwise and then tightening up. Messy job though.

RU sure the leak is not higher up and just dripping off the drain plug ?
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Post by jeremy » Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:59 pm

If you're prepared you can actually remove the plug and change the washer without loosing that much oil. I had to do it on my Renault 21 and lost less than 1/2 pint. However as you'll be using your thumb as a bung you will need an assistant if you're going to wind PTFE tape!

I've never had the sump off but on both the BX and ZX it feels as though the thread is a captive nut as its slightly loose so sealing the thread may not be effective as oil will run under the nut and out as before.

I agree that a lump of PTFE tape under the head may work.

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold » Wed Dec 28, 2005 12:38 am

Are you sure they've given you the correct washer, a sort of hollow curled washer and not just a flat copper one.
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Post by ed4ferrets » Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:03 am

Leak is at the plug, not from above & the washer is hollow curled copper 16mm inside diameter. Welding it may make next oilchange difficult :shock:
Marty said: "Take some small comfort from the fact that the driver of the other car, having failed the breath test will even now be in a little cell, with luck they will double him up with some mean bastard who will be tattooing a fandango on his arse"

'94 XM 2.1TD Break
'99 Xantia 1.9TD Break (almost there)
'63 Renault Caravelle

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Post by Vanny » Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:34 am

not difficult, just MORE FUN

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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford » Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:02 pm

The sump for this engine is about £0.02 from a breakers yard, and a new gasket is not a lot over a quid. Dead easy to change, takes about half an hour. How fast does it drip? if it's live-able with, I'd leave it until the next oil change, and have the sump off. You'll be amazed at the amount of sludge in the bottom of the sump too, so it's well worth doing.
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Post by ed4ferrets » Wed Dec 28, 2005 9:43 pm

Sump idea sounds good to me, anyone else feel the same? Judging from the sludge which came out with first oil change there's probably still loads of muck in there.
Another thing bugging me is the extaordinary length of time it takes for the oil light to go off :?. Will cleaning the oilpump filter whilst sump is off be of any benefit?
Marty said: "Take some small comfort from the fact that the driver of the other car, having failed the breath test will even now be in a little cell, with luck they will double him up with some mean bastard who will be tattooing a fandango on his arse"

'94 XM 2.1TD Break
'99 Xantia 1.9TD Break (almost there)
'63 Renault Caravelle

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Post by ken newbold » Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:00 pm

Yes Ed, the filter pan could be gunged up, I'd allow a bit more than half an hour though as you may have to move aside two hydraulic pipes and maybe accumalator sphere depending on model, it's a while since I did mine. Also take note of the length of the bolts, some (4 I think) are longer than the rest and must be put back in the same place.
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Post by DavidRutherford » Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:55 pm

Apologies.... yes, With the hydraulic pipes out of the way, it should then take about half an hour. No doubt longer all-told. I've only done this on a 405 so far, and without the associated issues of hydraulics, didn't take very long.

The sludge in it had to be removed with a pressure-washer... and this on a oil-change-every-5k engine......
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Post by jeremy » Thu Dec 29, 2005 7:11 pm

On out 2 XUD's the oil lights go out instantly, probably while the starter is operating. Its possible that if the sump is dented that there is insuficient clearance between the oil pick-up and the sump - in which case it should be dealt with ASAP. (this apparently is a common problem with re-built Jaguar engines with steel sumps that have been standing on the sump.)

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny » Thu Dec 29, 2005 10:21 pm

since the hydraulic pipes are anchored into the gearbox, and right down one end, surely they dont cause too much agro? I'd have thought at worst the bolts to the box might have to be undone to move the pipes to get to the bolts??


I probably should have done this with the new engine (cleaned the sump out that is!), gonna run it 500 miles ish then maybe change the oil back out!

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Post by (CZ)enda » Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:55 pm

If PTFE tape fails, red (oil-resistant, high-temperature) silicone all over the thing is a good idea.