hydraulic pump

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bedebill
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hydraulic pump

Post by bedebill »

Hi everyone , this is my 1st post as i have only just got a bx 19 d [k reg ] . it is a mot failure front flexi hoses need changing [is this a easy job?], front brakes are inbalanced , one pad too thin , there is a advisory on noisy hydraulic pump , the pump pullly belt is loose and the pulley seems tough to turn by hand [if i need a new or 2nd hand pump where is good to go to please?], after running the engine the the pulley wheel was hot . when the engine is started
the rear rises ok but the front rises with judders in jumps . i need a new battery . it has been parked up for 18 months .
, any advice on the above would be welcome . thanks bill
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docchevron
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Post by docchevron »

Firstly, welcome aboard!

I'll assume being a 19D that the car doesn't have ABS, which will be good news for you since non ABS flexi's are still readily available, whereas ABS flexi's are getting a tad hard to get now.

Changing them is quite straitforward, a pair of mole grips (to remove the horseshoue clip securing the hose) an 8MM spanner for the pipe end and a 14mm spanner for the caliper end is pretty much all you require.
Make sure to replace or swop the seal over at the pipe end, dont go nuts tightening the hose into the caliper either.

Bleed with the engine running and pedle depressed. If they aint been touched for a while make sure the bleed nipples undo before commencing work.
Using a 6 sided socket (again 8mm) will avoid rounding the nipples off.

Changing the pads is very straightforward and well dopcumented in the Haynes.
Worth cleaning up and lubing the slides whilst the pads are out.

The hydraulic pump belt needs to be F tight, and I wouldn't have said there's neccessarily anything amiss when you say it seems stiff to turn, they are..
That said if it's noisey enough to get an advise (and I've never heard of an advise for a noisey pump before) then it may need replacement..
Although knowing the tick time of the pressure reg would give an idea about whether the pump is working too hard due to a flat accumulator sphere or the such..

Sticky struts are common, and is well documented on this site.
Lubing the strut or doing some "citrobics" should help here..
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
citronut
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Post by citronut »

i agree with Doc, but add if the garage you got the MOT done at dont know citroens, they could well be talking out of there rear ends as fare as a noisy pump goes,

regards malcolm
curent ride
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

After getting an MOT on my BX a few years ago, I had a slightly loose pump belt misdiagnosed as a noisy HP pump. Obviously the 'chirrup' every time the pump kicked in could *only* be the pump bearings couldn't it??? :?
I think the compensation culture is to blame for advisories like these - from the garage's point of view they see a vehicle that might have a HP pump problem on something that affects the brakes - if that car then has an accident they can cover themselves by saying they pointed out a possible problem at the time...
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citronut
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Post by citronut »

or maybe that you dont have to be a mechanic or mechanicly minded to become an MOT tester,

regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Dollywobbler
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Post by Dollywobbler »

Compensation culture I say. I got two pages of advisories when my BX was recently MoTd! Mainly on 'corrosion,' which is only surface and only looks bad because I've sprayed anti-corrosion was all over it.
bedebill
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hydraulic pump

Post by bedebill »

thanks very much for all that advise everyone esp docccheveron for all that detail much appreciated i am not much of a mechanic and have been
cowering under the possible misapprehension that BX 's are tricky as heart surgery on goldfish . thanks and i'll post here how it goes . cheers bill
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electrokid
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Post by electrokid »

Worth cleaning up and lubing the slides whilst the pads are out.
The caliper needs to 'float' because there is only a piston on one side - when it sticks in the slide you get one pad wearing much more than the other. That was an advisory on my current BX 4 years ago - lubricating with copper grease saw it through a further 2 MOTs without a problem with just slightly uneven pad wear.

I bought the recon calipers 4 years ago and only fitted them this year - mainly because I felt they would be better on the car rather than cluttering up the shelf in the garage :-)
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