Hi all,
possibly a silly question as there already is a thread on heater fans but it isnt quite clear to me.
I have a diesel L reg Estate but the heater fan dosnt work. The control unit just goes round and round and dosnt turn it on. I have a donor motor and i have managed to carefully remove all the fascia and vents and extract the white thing, whatever its called, has all the knob mounts on it. Just now need to remove the fan. This does work as i tested it the other day.
My question is, do i have to drain all the coolant to go any further and is it difficult to get the fan out? Haynes aint too good here as a reference other than it should come out by the passenger side.
Any help in laymans terms would be gratefully received. It isnt very nice trying to do this in this heat though.
Andy
Problems with heater fan
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Vanny
- Merseyside resident
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- My Cars: BX 16v Ph2 - Jazz
BX 16v Ph2 - XPO - x 82
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The fan us under the bonnet, at the bottom of the window. It is no way connected to the coolant system so there is no way to drain it down.
You say the knob spins and spins, are you sure it isn't just the knob that has split, they tend to do this and then appear to spin and spin but the arm on the variable resistor/pot doesn't move.
If this is the case, tightly wrap a piece of electrical tape around the outside of the knobs shaft. Hmmm, i can't make it clear and not smutty, sorry.
You say the knob spins and spins, are you sure it isn't just the knob that has split, they tend to do this and then appear to spin and spin but the arm on the variable resistor/pot doesn't move.
If this is the case, tightly wrap a piece of electrical tape around the outside of the knobs shaft. Hmmm, i can't make it clear and not smutty, sorry.
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electrokid
- 1K Away
- Posts: 1764
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 2:14 pm
- Location: Woking
Your problem is most likely to be the small metal 'wiper' that should be in the white knob - make sure it's in the right place and springy enough to make contact with the tracks on the PCB.
Connectors under the grille suffer from corrosion because it all gets wet so check that connectors don't just need cleaning first - 'fiddle' with the connector to the fan motor and the connector to the control transistor (behind the fan unit as you are working on it).
IF you really need to change the heater fan...
You will need...
A big spanner or adjustable for the large plastic nut between the grille and the windscreen wiper spindle.
A very short 'stubby' crosspoint screwdriver.
A 10mm socket on at least a 6" extension - 1/4" drive will be easier.
A spanner to undo the windscreen wiper.
Don't bother starting the job unless you have these to hand.
Before opening the bonnet remove the windscreen wiper and the large plastic nut on the wiper spindle.
Open the bonnet...
Ease out the plastic pins at each end of the grille and carefully lift the grille clear of the wiper spindle. Lift the grille out of the way on the nearside - no need to remove it entirely.
Pull off and remove the domed filter behind the fan motor.
With the stubby crosspoint screwdriver remove the metal angle bracket. Pull out the connector to the control transistor while you are in that area.
Locate the 2 nuts and one bolt that hold the fan housing- they are along the forward edge of the fan unit. Using the 10mm socket undo all 3 and remove nuts / bolt. Remove the fan motor connector while you are in that area.
The fan unit can now be removed from the car with a bit of jiggling.
If you have a complete unit to fit that can be done now and refit is the reverse of removal. If you just have the motor proceed as follows.
Locate and remove all the spring clips holding the 2 halves of the fan unit together then split the fan unit into its 2 halves.
Remove the motor's electrical connector.
Carefully pull the motor out of the housing.
Don't remove the fan blades from the motor shaft unless absolutely neccessary but if possible spray lubricate the motor front bearing by inserting a tube between the back of the fan and the motor.
Smear a small amount of grease over the rear end of the motor around the shaft (NOT in the commutator area). If you have a spray switch cleaner suitable for commutators clean the commutator with it while spinning the fan - DON'T DROP IT - it will break.
Refit is the reverse of removal. When the 2 halves of the fan unit are back together replace the foam seal using impact adhesive such as cow gum.
Connectors under the grille suffer from corrosion because it all gets wet so check that connectors don't just need cleaning first - 'fiddle' with the connector to the fan motor and the connector to the control transistor (behind the fan unit as you are working on it).
IF you really need to change the heater fan...
You will need...
A big spanner or adjustable for the large plastic nut between the grille and the windscreen wiper spindle.
A very short 'stubby' crosspoint screwdriver.
A 10mm socket on at least a 6" extension - 1/4" drive will be easier.
A spanner to undo the windscreen wiper.
Don't bother starting the job unless you have these to hand.
Before opening the bonnet remove the windscreen wiper and the large plastic nut on the wiper spindle.
Open the bonnet...
Ease out the plastic pins at each end of the grille and carefully lift the grille clear of the wiper spindle. Lift the grille out of the way on the nearside - no need to remove it entirely.
Pull off and remove the domed filter behind the fan motor.
With the stubby crosspoint screwdriver remove the metal angle bracket. Pull out the connector to the control transistor while you are in that area.
Locate the 2 nuts and one bolt that hold the fan housing- they are along the forward edge of the fan unit. Using the 10mm socket undo all 3 and remove nuts / bolt. Remove the fan motor connector while you are in that area.
The fan unit can now be removed from the car with a bit of jiggling.
If you have a complete unit to fit that can be done now and refit is the reverse of removal. If you just have the motor proceed as follows.
Locate and remove all the spring clips holding the 2 halves of the fan unit together then split the fan unit into its 2 halves.
Remove the motor's electrical connector.
Carefully pull the motor out of the housing.
Don't remove the fan blades from the motor shaft unless absolutely neccessary but if possible spray lubricate the motor front bearing by inserting a tube between the back of the fan and the motor.
Smear a small amount of grease over the rear end of the motor around the shaft (NOT in the commutator area). If you have a spray switch cleaner suitable for commutators clean the commutator with it while spinning the fan - DON'T DROP IT - it will break.
Refit is the reverse of removal. When the 2 halves of the fan unit are back together replace the foam seal using impact adhesive such as cow gum.
1992 BX19 TGD estate 228K Rusty - SORNed
2002 C5 HDi SX estate
2002 C5 HDi SX estate
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Vanny
- Merseyside resident
- Posts: 3583
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 11:48 pm
- Location: BXProject
- My Cars: BX 16v Ph2 - Jazz
BX 16v Ph2 - XPO - x 82
- Contact:
I would advise that you don't remove the fan from the motor, at all. They are not designed to be removed despite appearances.
Also, your work will be doubled if you have air con, there are two fans, but the process is much the same. Take the suplementary one off first (left hand side looking towards the car from the bonnet).
Also, your work will be doubled if you have air con, there are two fans, but the process is much the same. Take the suplementary one off first (left hand side looking towards the car from the bonnet).
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Mothman
Thanks guys,
you have all been a great help. i do have a complete unit, just got to get it out of the donor motor.
However, i will have a much more detailed look at the one in my motor first, could be that the thread/ spindle has been damaged and maybe i can fix that.
I will be completely dismantling the donor vehicle in the next few months anyway, not looking forward to doing the windscreen and other glass.
Thanks once again.
Andy
you have all been a great help. i do have a complete unit, just got to get it out of the donor motor.
However, i will have a much more detailed look at the one in my motor first, could be that the thread/ spindle has been damaged and maybe i can fix that.
I will be completely dismantling the donor vehicle in the next few months anyway, not looking forward to doing the windscreen and other glass.
Thanks once again.
Andy