power steering question/query

[B-Hive]

Hi all

I tried to do a search on my issue but the search facility seems a little toothless..so apologies if this has already been covered.

I finally tired of the ever increasing suspension rattles. I decided to have a definative look under side of the TRS. All bushes and outer ball joints seemed fine. What was of concern was the play in the steering axial ball joints..the ones that connect to the tie rods. The play was way too much and they also made a nice knocking noise if you played with them..So I'm guessing this be the problem.

As these inner steering ball joint are integral to the steering rack, I figured it was time to do a steering assembly swap with a known good one from a 90 model,


One of the problems though is that the swapper had a dud plastic gaitor boot and I can not figure out how to remove the old one but more importantly, how to fit a new one. Its the passenger side gaitor and there is this additional mounting/location thread protuberance "thing" that wont let the old boot go and would be a pain in the rump to fit a new boot/gaitor.

So questions wise people ..

How is this steering gaitor replaced??

Also will a '90 steering rack actually fit and be compatible with an 85 mk1?

Are there any special tricks to look out for when doing the steering rack?..the Haynes is mildly helpful..but only just!!!

And lastly and perhaps more importantly..can and do these inner steering rack ball joints fail/pop out catastrophically.?

I'm holding off driving the car till I have confirmation.

Thanks..

BTW the GT is coming along nicely...I cannot believe how much more lively and revvy the engine is,, and its got a cat too!!

[JayW]

and its got a cat too!!

REALLY

What country you in? I'm fairly sure Cat's were a new and barely used thing back in the mid 80's and certainly wouldn't bode well with a Carb'd motor (as fuel adjustment isn't exactly real-time)...

Curious?

[Way2go]

By the sound of it, you are trying to replace a manual rack with a PAS one so you will need massive strength to turn corners without the power ram system that fits on this stub. A dangerous plan methinks!

[docchevron]

Is confused.
If it's a non PAS car it would be silly to fit a PAS rack as W2G said.
Equally, the axial joints are screwed to the rack, so can be changed without removing the rack, not that you can get new ones anymore..

The way to replace the NS gaitor on PAS cars (with the ram stub) is get a rubber gaitor that will just stretch over the stub, either a Firstline gaitor for BX, or get a Xantia gaitor, which is already rubber.

[B-Hive]

Both units are PAS.

I was originally just intending to "unscrew " the axial joints and replace them from the swapper, but on close investigations both ends didn't appear to be the friendliest things in the world to remove. The drivers side "appears" to be held on by some nasty looking blue metal spring with no apparent way to remove it. As for the other side the tight rubber boot isnt giving up any secrets and I didn't want to risk damaging it.

Can anyone please tell me how to remove the axial joints from both sides. I can practice on the swapper first if necessary.

ALSO SORRY FOR HARPING ON >> BUT DO THESE JOINTS FAIL??

[docchevron]

Never seen an axial joint part company, but if it was worn enough then obviousley it could.
That said, they are well made, and even if you did half a million miles a year the MoT man would fail the joint long long long before it was worn enough for the joint to pop.

How to remove?
Easy. Get yourself a pair of Stilsons, and undo the joint.
Anti clockwise to undo, clockwise to do up.

They are tight, but it's a fine thread, and once you've got them moving the spring washer lets go and they undo by hand.

They are no longer available though. although I suspect there is an axial joint somewhere that will do the job.

The NS rack gaitor (being plastic) will have to be cut off.
The new one (again, make sure it's rubber) WILL slide over the PAS ram stub, but make sure you lube th inside of the gaitor well before attempting said.
I usually use CV grease.

[B-Hive]

Never seen an axial joint part company, but if it was worn enough then obviousley it could.
That said, they are well made, and even if you did half a million miles a year the MoT man would fail the joint long long long before it was worn enough for the joint to pop.
.

Thanks Doc for that info.... very handy..

We are actually "fortunate" enough here (Australia A.C.T) that we dont' have to pass an annual inspection. The vehicle has only to be "Road Worthied" when you go to sell, and only then if vehicle is registered.

When I bought the car 3 years ago I was fully expecting these to fail the "road worthy" inspection. But they got through, only because it doesnt seem to be a test they perform for the inspection.!!!

The play in them is enough to be of concern..About 5mm of lateral play when you grab the front wheel and give it a left to right wobble.

I don"t need to worry about sourcing some good axials, cos the ones on the swapper seem good. As I said I'll practice the axial removal method on the swapper rack/unit before attempting it on the car.

Half an hour later...they're both free from the steering

...quite easy as you said ..I think it helped that these axials must have been a recent fit to the donor rack as there were tell tale grip marks. Hoping that the ones in the car are just as easy. Could be, as the car had a brand new PAS rack put in just prior to me buying it.. Strange how they didnt bother to do the axials at the same time.

Does your technique work just as well for removing the bits whilst still in situ on the rack in the car??

Cant imagine there being sufficient room for one stilson let alone two.. let alone being able to grab them both hard??

Would you recommend removing the rack first??

[docchevron]

5MM's is rather a lot yes!
Wouldn't really want to be driving that very far!
Access is a bit of a ball ache when the racks in the car, but it can be done if you have a small enough pair of stilsons, but it can be near impossible if they are really tight, although a bit of heat can help here.
Last pair I did with the rack fitted using a speed wrench that was just big enough to go round the joint, and small enough to squeeze in.
Dropping the rear end of the subframe down a bit makes life much easier but since you have to disconnect the steering coupling to do that then it's just as easy to undo the rack and either remove completely or just move it across the subframe in either direction to do the offending side.