octopod woes
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- BXpert
- Posts: 324
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 5:51 pm
- Location: somerset
- My Cars: 2 1992 BX TXD estates
- x 1
octopod woes
Well, here we are again. The MOT looms and the garage has advised me that any LHM leakage is a failure so I spent today trying to get at the octopus. Jeez what a waste of time. I couldn't get the driveshaft out as I couldn't separate the lower arm from the hub (following Haynes) as my joint splitter wouldn't fit into the incredibly tight space around theball joint. Tried everything including heat, bolsters and violence. Some people apparently do this job without removing the driveshaft - er, how??? Even with the use of ramps, two lights and reams of tissue I can't see anything much except a few pipes disappearing into a black mess. How do you experts do it - by feel? I was hoping to find the elusive animal, and either repair one leaking pipe (as suggested on several threads) or carefully mark up the various pipes, remove them and then fit a new octopussy. But I can't see anything! Is the thing bolted in? And if I undo the bolt, can it then be tugged out so that the pipes can be got at? I frankly can't see how to do the job with the pod in its present location. The thread which suggested relocating the little darling on the bulkhead sounds brilliant, but as beginner I would not want to just bypass the old octo without having handled it first to make sure I'd got the correct pipes going to the right places. Rain all tomorrow, so Thursday is the last chance to get something done. Over to you! (One day I'll look back on this and laugh).
- JayW
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Re the bottom balljoint...
I've NEVER used (nor needed) a splitter, wind the nut right off then twiddle it back on loosely with your fingers. Then (assuming the car is supported securely) put the suspension on the lowest setting which will suck the strut up putting massive "pulling" tension on the joint. Then one decent twat upward on the bottom nut with the side of a lump hammer and they seperate.
Jobbed.
I've NEVER used (nor needed) a splitter, wind the nut right off then twiddle it back on loosely with your fingers. Then (assuming the car is supported securely) put the suspension on the lowest setting which will suck the strut up putting massive "pulling" tension on the joint. Then one decent twat upward on the bottom nut with the side of a lump hammer and they seperate.
Jobbed.
I have zero patience for your tedium.
- rayfenwick
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Hopefully not thread-jacking, but I need to do an octopus next week on mine.. If anyone can give some more advice (or point me in the right direction) I'd be very grateful.
I've heard a little about relocation the octopus a la 4x4 - is this the same as the bulkhead repositioning, and if so what do I need to know.
As always, thanks in advance for any help.
I've heard a little about relocation the octopus a la 4x4 - is this the same as the bulkhead repositioning, and if so what do I need to know.
As always, thanks in advance for any help.
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
- Mike E (uk)
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- x 1
When I replaced my octopuss I did not remove the driveshaft.
I got a copy of the pipework (Japanese site) and marked up the old hoses so I knew which came from where.
Then I cut the legs off, one leg at a time and replaced it with the new pipe.
I extended the pipes that went to the rear of the car to make fitting easier.
I have a pit in the garage which helped, but it still was a horrid job.
Mike
I got a copy of the pipework (Japanese site) and marked up the old hoses so I knew which came from where.
Then I cut the legs off, one leg at a time and replaced it with the new pipe.
I extended the pipes that went to the rear of the car to make fitting easier.
I have a pit in the garage which helped, but it still was a horrid job.
Mike
la BX 16 soupapes: sachez apprecier avec moderation.
It might be clever now, but it won't be in the morning!
It might be clever now, but it won't be in the morning!
When I replaced this nightmare pipe set I did not remove the driveshaft either and using that japanese site with the well laid out pipe plan and doing as mikeE did it was not to bad a job. Even though I only had axle stands.
One pipe did cause me an issue and that was a front to rear pipe. By the time I got to it I found I did not have enough pipe to join. Luckly its just a clear pipe joining so a bit ingenuity was needed i.e longer pipe.
Yes lots of swearing and cursing involved, stiff neck and back by the end of the day but it was doable. First one I ever did and was erm easier than I thought...cough...
One pipe did cause me an issue and that was a front to rear pipe. By the time I got to it I found I did not have enough pipe to join. Luckly its just a clear pipe joining so a bit ingenuity was needed i.e longer pipe.
Yes lots of swearing and cursing involved, stiff neck and back by the end of the day but it was doable. First one I ever did and was erm easier than I thought...cough...
- Stinkwheel
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I posted pics of the return piping from the Citroen manual on this thread, you'll nee to scroll down a fair bit. Gibbo.
http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic ... ht=#135697
http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic ... ht=#135697
- Stinkwheel
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- JayW
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- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 6:40 pm
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- x 13
I did remove the driveshaft which made it a much easier proposition than the one I was faced with with it in situ (which didn't look like fun)! I think you'll find the half hour spent removing it well worthwhile!
I also extended the rear pipes, however, I did it by supergluing short pieces of the hard plastic pipe into the respective joints on the octopus (on the bench) then using a short piece of the old rubber hose to connect that to the existing plastic pipe further back on the subframe thus making the joint accessible and preventing the pipes from popping out of the octopus (where you can't get to them for love nor money).
I also rerouted the returns behind the doseur and the strut back to the tank instead of through the plastic sheathbetween the engine & the wing.
Pull one pipe down, post one back up, it's quite easy once you've got the plan of where the pipes go...
I also extended the rear pipes, however, I did it by supergluing short pieces of the hard plastic pipe into the respective joints on the octopus (on the bench) then using a short piece of the old rubber hose to connect that to the existing plastic pipe further back on the subframe thus making the joint accessible and preventing the pipes from popping out of the octopus (where you can't get to them for love nor money).
I also rerouted the returns behind the doseur and the strut back to the tank instead of through the plastic sheathbetween the engine & the wing.
Pull one pipe down, post one back up, it's quite easy once you've got the plan of where the pipes go...
I have zero patience for your tedium.
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- BXpert
- Posts: 324
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 5:51 pm
- Location: somerset
- My Cars: 2 1992 BX TXD estates
- x 1
pods
Thanks for all of that - a new pod is in the post as we write.My main query was the best way to actually get my hands on the octopod so I could actually visually check and note which pipes went where before dicing and splicing. Like I say, is it bolted in or does it just sit there? Thanks for the tip on busting the balljoint seal, I'll try it tomorrow.It may sound like I'm plodding a bit but I've never dealt with a hydraulic system like this before and I'd rather do it step by step than screw up! The only reason I'm trying to remove the driveshaft is that I'm hoping to then get actual sight of the octo if I can get me head in far enough!
Can anyone suggest a current supplier of hydraulic hose suitable for relocating the puss, also where hydraflush can be found - my local motor factor couldn't locate any.
Can anyone suggest a current supplier of hydraulic hose suitable for relocating the puss, also where hydraflush can be found - my local motor factor couldn't locate any.
- rayfenwick
- 1K Away
- Posts: 1718
- Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:16 am
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Re: pods
My thoughts exactly.tim wrote:....I've never dealt with a hydraulic system like this before and I'd rather do it step by step than screw up!
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
- JayW
- 1K Away
- Posts: 1590
- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 6:40 pm
- Location: Now listen here you mullet...
- x 13
It's just held in place by cable ties (in my case).
Even with the driveshaft removed, the best access is from underneath in front of the rear of the subframe so try and get the front nice and high in the air (i sat the chassis rails on wheel ramps). With the shaft out access is actually pretty good underneath (just pray it's not raining)...
When you resecure the new one in place bear in mind the steering gaiter passes really closely so ensure nothing chaffes or gets caught up.
Edit: As for relocation, you should quite easily be able to reuse the old hose once inspected, mine hadn't deteriorated, just one split (the shortest one!) You'll need some 3mm-4mm poly pipe to connect it all. Though TBH i couldn't see any real point to relocating it as the last one had lasted 20 years i'll be amazed if I suvive another 20 let alone the car!!!
Even with the driveshaft removed, the best access is from underneath in front of the rear of the subframe so try and get the front nice and high in the air (i sat the chassis rails on wheel ramps). With the shaft out access is actually pretty good underneath (just pray it's not raining)...
When you resecure the new one in place bear in mind the steering gaiter passes really closely so ensure nothing chaffes or gets caught up.
Edit: As for relocation, you should quite easily be able to reuse the old hose once inspected, mine hadn't deteriorated, just one split (the shortest one!) You'll need some 3mm-4mm poly pipe to connect it all. Though TBH i couldn't see any real point to relocating it as the last one had lasted 20 years i'll be amazed if I suvive another 20 let alone the car!!!
I have zero patience for your tedium.