BX Service Schedule
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BX Service Schedule
Howdy folks
As we prepare for a house move, I've conveniently packed my handbook, and therefore am not sure what needs doing to my BX. It's covered 8000 miles since the last service (oops) and I'm wondering what it now needs.
It'll definitely get new oil and filter, but do I need to do any other filters at this stage?
Ta
As we prepare for a house move, I've conveniently packed my handbook, and therefore am not sure what needs doing to my BX. It's covered 8000 miles since the last service (oops) and I'm wondering what it now needs.
It'll definitely get new oil and filter, but do I need to do any other filters at this stage?
Ta
- mat_fenwick
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What he said ^
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
From the good book on service intervals
Every 6,000 miles (10,000km) Renew Engine Oil and Filter
Every 12,000 miles (20,000km) Renew Spark Plugs
Every 18,000 miles (30,000km) Renew air cleaner, clean hydraulic system filters
etc etc etc
One thing though in the Aussie/kiw service intervals it says to change oil every 5,000kms...this I tend not to follow because thats a throw back to the days before they tarsealed roads here and not really applicable unless you on a dirt road all the time.
Every 6,000 miles (10,000km) Renew Engine Oil and Filter
Every 12,000 miles (20,000km) Renew Spark Plugs
Every 18,000 miles (30,000km) Renew air cleaner, clean hydraulic system filters
etc etc etc
One thing though in the Aussie/kiw service intervals it says to change oil every 5,000kms...this I tend not to follow because thats a throw back to the days before they tarsealed roads here and not really applicable unless you on a dirt road all the time.
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Thanks. Does get confusing. The later 306 with the same XUD engine sometimes gets quoted as having 10k intervals! Mind you, the 2CV went from 3000 to 6000 mile intervals with no change to the engine...(pressure from marketing I guess!)
I'll just do oil and filter this time, all other filters next time (though I will have a look at the air filter). Annoyingly, I didn't look at the sump plug until I went to drop the oil - I've not got anything to fit a stupid square plug! Gah! Will be borrowing one but probably not until tomorrow. Very frustrating.
I'll just do oil and filter this time, all other filters next time (though I will have a look at the air filter). Annoyingly, I didn't look at the sump plug until I went to drop the oil - I've not got anything to fit a stupid square plug! Gah! Will be borrowing one but probably not until tomorrow. Very frustrating.
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I seem to remember (from when I was 'contracted' to do the servicing on my Dad's BX) that the service intervals on the diesels were every 5k miles, and major services every 15k. Hence force of habit for me doing it as I do.
I reckon the intervals were chosen from what would give an acceptably low level of failures under warranty with average type of driving, based on the lubrication technology at the time. As time goes by they probably found that on average, things weren't wearing out till well after the warranty period - and so extended the intervals! Obviously oils have improved as well over that time.
If you're clocking up the miles like you are, you won't be doing as many cold starts for a given distance as the 'norm', therefore I think you won't be hurting your engine too much...
I reckon the intervals were chosen from what would give an acceptably low level of failures under warranty with average type of driving, based on the lubrication technology at the time. As time goes by they probably found that on average, things weren't wearing out till well after the warranty period - and so extended the intervals! Obviously oils have improved as well over that time.
If you're clocking up the miles like you are, you won't be doing as many cold starts for a given distance as the 'norm', therefore I think you won't be hurting your engine too much...
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- mat_fenwick
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From the 1984 brochure...
I knew I hadn't dreamt it! (My dreams are usually marginally more exciting than BX service schedules).
I still wouldn't lose sleep over it, you're using a modern oil, it's a non turbo so stressing the oil less, and they have extended the interval for later built cars.
If you don't change the fuel filter I'd be inclined to at least drain any water from the filter housing before winter, not a difficult job. You'll soon wonder why you took it to a garage at all!
I knew I hadn't dreamt it! (My dreams are usually marginally more exciting than BX service schedules).
I still wouldn't lose sleep over it, you're using a modern oil, it's a non turbo so stressing the oil less, and they have extended the interval for later built cars.
If you don't change the fuel filter I'd be inclined to at least drain any water from the filter housing before winter, not a difficult job. You'll soon wonder why you took it to a garage at all!
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Well, oil and filter now replaced. Is it just psychology that makes me think she sounds better now? Also had a fiddle with the clutch mechanism, and I accidentally pulled the cable off the end of the fork. In cobbling it all back together again, the clutch now disengages properly and gearchanges are improved! S'pose that's a result, though I don't understand how I did it.
Below is the fuel filter. Advice appreciated on water draining.
Incidentally, the engine is covered in oil, with a large amount around the base of the oil filler and behind it. Guess I'm going to have to trace the leak at some point, though she doesn't often need a top-up.
Below is the fuel filter. Advice appreciated on water draining.
Incidentally, the engine is covered in oil, with a large amount around the base of the oil filler and behind it. Guess I'm going to have to trace the leak at some point, though she doesn't often need a top-up.
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You should find a plastic screw on the bottom of the fuel filter - loosen that and water/diesel should run out. If you collect it in a container you will be able to see the water and diesel as separate layers. You may need to prime the filter with the rubber button on the top afterwards...
The amount of water seems to vary considerably, I guess depending on temperature (condensing on the tank walls at the petrol station?) and the quality of the fuel. At least you have the earlier filter housing, that is better for trapping any water that may be in there...
The amount of water seems to vary considerably, I guess depending on temperature (condensing on the tank walls at the petrol station?) and the quality of the fuel. At least you have the earlier filter housing, that is better for trapping any water that may be in there...