A few little issues

[saintjamesy89]

I've just discovered a split CV gaitor (lots of grease all over my otherwise clean undercarraige lol) and two or three LHM leaks, two of them are the usual front strut return pipes that do the U bend, not sure where the other one is.

Could an average DIY mechanic do CV gaitors? They don't look difficult, just awkward.

And where could I get two pipes for the said LHM leaks? Or could fuel piping etc be used??

Thanks all
Tom.

[scarecrow]

The strut return pipes should be available still - it's been noted on here that the cheaper pattern ones don't last very long so best to get the genuine thing.

Never done a gaitor but I understand that they're not that easy. I think it's common to split them in order to replace them, then bring it back together with cable ties. Doesn't sound very satisfactory to me.

You might find more relevant information by trying a few searches for previous discussions.

Steve

[Gibbo2286]

If you're not competent to divide the CV joint one of these can be the answer, they do however need a fair bit of muscle to push them over the cone. Gibbo.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-C15-BOOTK ... arParts_SM

[Oscar]

I have a spare CV gaiter which you can have if you like.

Oscar

[KevR]

CV joint gaiters aren't difficult, just messy. I've always though those super-stretchy ones were more trouble than they were worth. OK, so you don't have to completely remove the driveshaft but it's only an extra minute or two's work to remove it properly and it's a lot easier to deal with on the bench.
Once you have the driveshaft out, you remove the outer joint by pressing (or hitting with something...) to pull the shaft from the joint - it's held on by a small spring clip which may fail as you remove it so you're best off getting a couple of spares in advance. In my experience it rarely takes much force to remove the outer joint. Then you get the old gaiter off, slide the new one on, pop the joint back on and then get horribly messy as you fill the joint with grease then try and get the large end of the gaiter in place. I've had some success in the past with assembling the joint more or less dry, then greasing it with a 'needle' type attachement on the end of a grease gun, slipped down between the small end of the gaiter and the shaft. Much less messy.
I usually hold the gaiter with long cable ties, but I've just finally bought myself some Ligarex pliers to be able to do the job properly. If you use cable ties they need to be strong but not too chunky as there's not much clearance for the 'heads' which stick up.
Often the hardest part of the job is getting the bottom ball joint undone without knackering it!

[scarecrow]

.... just to add to Kev's excellent description, you will need to refill the gearbox after you've taken out the drive shaft. I'm not sure if this only happens with the n/s one or the o/s as well.

[kiwi]

There are two options with CV boots and the easy DIY split option boot is the easiest.

The typical route gets a bit harder so it makes it easier just to get a mechanic to do the job for you

I just took option two of the mechanic to replace the TZS boot which I had been putting offf for the last year with its uncertain future. One thing is for sure with the BX that CV boots will never go out of stock, they are made universally so fit other makes of vehicle.

[KevR]

Good point Scarecrow! I can usually get away with (I think) the driver's side one without losing more than a small amount of oil, but the other one's a different matter - drip tray definitely needed!

[Discoil]

If you are doing the shortest drive shaft outer boot, prior to knocking off the cv, push in the whole shaft and then use vise grips or similar on the shaft,so trapping the grip's handles behind the linkrod.

You then can hold the cv joint in one hand whilst applying force (copper headed hammer or similar ) with the other hand.