Pipe question

BX Tech talk
citronut
Over 2k
Posts: 2781
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:55 am
Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
x 1

Post by citronut »

i always lower the rear sub frame whilst fitting new fron to rears, then you can make sure they go back exactly were they should in the mountings over the S/F,

conect the pipe to there points at the front and rea then gently lift the S/F back into place attatching the pipes into there clips as they reach,

otherwise you might be replaceing one or more in the very near future when they have shaffed/rubbed through on bits like the trailing arms at there pivot,

it also makes fitting the rear brake pipes easyer whilst your in there,


regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
User avatar
toddao
BXpat
Posts: 2833
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: The Hegau

Post by toddao »

Ok Malcolm sounds like a good idea. I hadn't considered this was the way to proceed, I was contorting my hands round corners. I'm ever grateful for the advice here!

Cheers
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
User avatar
docchevron
The Immoderate half of the admin team
Posts: 7524
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: A Bucket of Fish
x 7
Contact:

Post by docchevron »

yeah, dropping the subframe a few inches makes life very much easier, and since over here rubbing pipes can be an MoT fail then worth the little time it takes to drop the frame to make sure it's done properly.

That said I've donr a few without dropping the frame, but always with home made kunifer pipes which are somewhat easier to bend to the shape you want!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
User avatar
mat_fenwick
Moderator
Posts: 7326
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:08 pm
Location: North Wales
x 19

Post by mat_fenwick »

And you have a brand new subframe anyway, so it looks like decision made!
Image

1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad
User avatar
toddao
BXpat
Posts: 2833
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: The Hegau

Post by toddao »

I wasn't thinking clearly last night ( nothing to do with the beer or baby & infant induced sleepless nights!) but the 'rear subframe' is the axle assembly - yes?
That is where I've got my axle stands! I can understand dropping the subframe if you've got a four point lift but how else would I support the car?
Anyway, I have removed the rear exhaust box and spare wheel frame and access to the pipework is pretty good.

Yes, I've got a shiny new rear subframe - I did consider just doing a straight swap and also saving myself the hassle of the arm bearings ( coming next) but again ,back to the jacking problem. Also, this is probably going in the 16v.

A related thought re the spare wheel which of course is rusted to F. Has anyone improvised a cover for their spare? I noticed in the Accessories catalogue of 1986 that a cover was available from Citroen ( probably after they realised the error of their ways!)
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
Linegeist
BXpert
Posts: 788
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 6:35 pm
Location: Anglesey - out near the nuke power station!

Post by Linegeist »

toddao wrote: A related thought re the spare wheel which of course is rusted to F. Has anyone improvised a cover for their spare? I noticed in the Accessories catalogue of 1986 that a cover was available from Citroën ( probably after they realised the error of their ways!)
I kind've assumed everyone put their underslung spare in a bin liner, along with the tools .............
User avatar
toddao
BXpat
Posts: 2833
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: The Hegau

Post by toddao »

a bin liner

that's not Germanic engineering Bob! No form fitted Kevlar housing able to withstand extremes of temperature and climate? :D
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
User avatar
toddao
BXpat
Posts: 2833
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: The Hegau

Post by toddao »

Well it goes forward, slowly. The bolts for the brackets that were holding the rear brake lines sheared off and the plastic clips disintegrated under slight pressure - they've only lasted since 1985! The new brake lines are in though.
I looked on Service Citroen and the dizzying array of pipe clips was simplified by the fact that only about two are still available - probably €50 a piece!

I think I've sussed the pipe query that started this thread - the R/H drive front to rear brake pipe travels a little bit further to connect with the doseur behind the brake pedal over the right side thus the L/H drive version is shorter as the pipes come up that side of the car.
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
citronut
Over 2k
Posts: 2781
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:55 am
Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
x 1

Post by citronut »

the main point the pipes are hard to get to/see is as they go up over the sub frame just after the run up the side of the fuel tank, as the lay over a tin support guide with plastic clips to hold them in place,

place you axle stands under the re/enforced jacking points on the edge of the sill lip,

also now you have the exhaust off there aint much more to dropping the sub frame,

i use a length of timber on the jack and under the sub frame from one side member to the other, and on re/instaling it get the sub frame well balanced on the jack, as the 6 mountting stud's have got to enter the holes in the body all at the same time and together (square) to make life easyer

dont be scarred its not that dificult at all,


regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
User avatar
docchevron
The Immoderate half of the admin team
Posts: 7524
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: A Bucket of Fish
x 7
Contact:

Post by docchevron »

toddao wrote: Yes, I've got a shiny new rear subframe - I did consider just doing a straight swap and also saving myself the hassle of the arm bearings ( coming next) but again ,back to the jacking problem. Also, this is probably going in the 16v.
The jacks would go under the jacking points on the arse end of the sills, outboard of the subframe mounts.

Bear in mind 16V's have different ARB's, so if the new subframe has an ARB and it isn't from a 16V then you'll need to change it, also, I assume the new subframe has arms? Bear in mind further non ABS arms are different to ABS arms.. Just FYI.
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
User avatar
toddao
BXpat
Posts: 2833
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: The Hegau

Post by toddao »

Thanks for replies. I don't trust those rear jacking points at all so I would never crawl under a BX jacked on them - I've seen them bend on jacks.
I'm managing so far without removing the subframe - just see whether I can do it. Unfortunately a cold ( not caused by lying under BXs in winter!) has slowed me up. I've been re-upholstering a sofa in the warmth of the house these last couple of days - no oil under my fingernails!

Chris, I had a feeling that the subframe wouldn't fit the 16v but thanks for clarifying. It came off a GT that was written off within days of leaving the showroom. Er.. what's ARB? Arm rear bearings?
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
citronut
Over 2k
Posts: 2781
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:55 am
Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
x 1

Post by citronut »

ARB= anti roll bar as the GTI will have a thicker ARB, as far as im aware all the rear sub frames are the same apart from the 4X4's,

also i find the strengthend section of the door sill (jacking point) is perfectly stong enough to hold the weight of the car,

otherwise if you have some very tall axle stands and a length of scafold tube, you can slide the tube through the large hols in the rear towing brackets and sit it onto the stands,

regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
User avatar
toddao
BXpat
Posts: 2833
Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: The Hegau

Post by toddao »

I know you're right about the rear jacking points Malcolm. Perhaps it is a bit irrational but the axle stands sit so much more convincingly under the axle sections rather than those 'tabs' of metal. When I was undoing the rear spheres last week I had to apply so much pressure that the car rocked on the stands. I wasn't under it though but to the side!
The scaffold pole through the rear towing brackets is also a good one.
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
sdelasal
BXpert
Posts: 511
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 8:45 am
Location: Chelmsford, Essex

Post by sdelasal »

in my saga of replacing the four front to rear pipes, i've so far removed three pipe connectors - two to the rear height corrector and one to the safety valve. In each case the pipe seal has not come out & I can't see how to get it out without shoving a sharp screwdriver in and digging it out - and in doing so introduce a lot of small rubber debris particles into the hydraulic system which is sensitive to debris!. Another option is to remove the HC and safety valve and be able to see what i'm doing. There must be a knack that i'm missing here. Plan B will be to simply re-use the old seals and hope for the best! Steve
User avatar
ken newbold
Over 2k
Posts: 4408
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 10:53 pm
x 5

Post by ken newbold »

I use a woodscrew of about 4mm thickness. Screw it into the rubber in place of the pipe, just so it's a nice snug fit.
Then attempt to withdraw the rubber by turning the screw in an anti-clockwise direction, thus bringing the rubber out.

OK it don't work everytime and you may have to mess about and repeat this a few times, but try different size scews and you'll get the hang of it. :)
Post Reply