cambelt- job done.

tim · Post by **tim** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:00 pm

Thought I'd let you know that the 19 TXD is off and running with a new belt and waterpump. Between the FAQs and Haynes it's all there but I thought I'd add a few thoughts, might be helpful to others. Tools - I didn't need a long-reach 16mm socket as the standard Kamasa fitted fine, though with no room to spare. The 3/8 extension for the tensioner is vital, and although I managed to borrow one from a neighbour it would've been 5 mins work to knock a tool up from a steel rod and an angle grinder. There is no room for the ratchet head so I clamped molegrips on the extension and it worked fine. I also had a hydraulic jack which I found invaluable for raising and lowering the engine; I wouldn't fancy doing this job without it although an old bottle jack would probably do as well.
As regards locking up the pulleys, Haynes doesn't make it clear that the casings are threaded for 8mm bolts (stocked by any ironmonger) and this is the ONLY way to go, dowels can move and fall out; you want neither to happen. I had a broken bolt stub in one hole left by a previous idiot but I managed to shift it. Taking off the starter motor is a good idea as you can clearly see the alignment hole. I found a hacksaw end too sloppy and used an old stud. You'll know when it has gone in as it will push right through the flywheel, feels like a good inch. I also took the pulley off; it took all of 90 seconds and gave me a clear view of both pulley and water pump. I couldn't see why you needed to prat about turning the motor by wrestling with a filthy wheel. a socket and T-bar on the cam wheel worked fine, and I could watch the locking holes coming round to the right place.
I didn't want to leave anything to chance (especially after reading of cock-ups in the FAQs) so I put a paint line on each of the three pulleys and the belt edge, removed the belt, counted teeth (memory says 28T between marks on the top run and 40T between pump and crank). I then put marks on the new belt so once I'd offered up the new belt I could check on all three pulleys that the belt was where it was supposed to be. After that it was just a question of putting the bits back on. Turn the key and off we go......
I reckon I saved about £300 by doing it myself,(the parts being probably half garage prices) and given the time it took to shift the old gasket off the pump mating face, I'm glad I did it myself as I doubt the other bugger would have done it properly. I've probably forgotten several things but a pint of Broadside calleth - hope the above helps.

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 10:55 am

I need to do the belt and pump on one of mine imminently, so it's nice to have a reminder that it's not as hard as it looks!
Thanks!

tim · Post by **tim** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 7:04 pm

Glad to see this thread is working - I wondered why no-one replied! Saw Andy this a.m., he tried to reply but couldn't get the thread to let him in.... odd. I haven't thought of anything to add to what I said; it did take a
while to do, but practice makes perfect.

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:26 pm

Well done on a big money saver.. guess what's leaking now on my tzd?

I'm planning on doing mine next week when the weather's forecasted to get a bit warmer..
How did you find the bleeding process? My older Hayes doesn't go into much detail for the A8a engine. Was the writeup on the static section of this site enough to get it bled ok?
My BX is a 91 model.

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:42 pm

Haven't had a problem with bleeding it - even the procedure in Haynes is adequate!

tim · Post by **tim** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 6:01 pm

Sorry - lost me on that one, what needs bleeding?? I assume you mean the cooling system. I just did it the usual way, as per Haynes. loosening the rad top screw and hose valve in turn. Now I do know about the header tank thing - old lemonade bottle taped to the rad mouth to provide a decent coolant head so I did that as well. I KNOW I saw a thread somewhere about this and thought it was in FAQs but I can't find the thing. Where'm be, chaps? I'd just like to check up I've done it right. Andy showed me back in summer how to do it but you don't want to go too mad when you are pissing antifreeze all over the place. Pricey stuff! Something this forum should be good at - what's the highest price you've seen for a gallon of antifreeze?? Just for a larf.

Mothman · Post by **Mothman** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:04 pm

Propper job Tim,

done a very good job too, hope the beer's ok.

Andy