Bottom balljoint ( steering swivel)

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:05 pm

I started on the front arm bushes but on the way I have noticed there is excessive play in the bottom balljoint on one side.

Looking in The Haynes I see that they use three special tools to remove and refit the balljoint. Must I visit a garage then to get this done or are there any other solutions?

Also, are the bottom balljoints standard across the whole BX range?

Cheers

sdelasal · Post by **sdelasal** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:51 pm

like this one ...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:51 pm

A couple of ideas to consider:

http://www.rmattila.com/images/remontit ... allonivel/
http://www.rmattila.com/images/remontit ... totyokalu/

As far as I know, the balljoints are the same in all BX's, but there are significant quality differences between different brands. TRW used to be good, but I've recently had some disappointments with those too.

-Riku

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:10 pm

The tool sdelasal linked above is all you'll need (other than the 34mm? socket that fits it).

If you're lucky they'll come out easily but be prepared to use much heat (with the hub carrier off the car)!

TIP: when you tighten the nut up to lock the tool onto the balljoint don't overtighten it otherwise the tools teeth will bite into the hub carrier making it appear impossible to turn.

TIP2: If you do need to use heat be aware that a heated balljoint can become a LETHAL missile

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:19 pm

JayW wrote:The tool sdelasal linked above is all you'll need (other than the 34mm? socket that fits it).

That's true, if the joint is not very tight. If this happens to be the case, only the best of those tools will do, the not-so-good ones (such as mine) are at risk of breaking. I improvised the system of using a M30 nut with a 40 mm cavity machined to the other end for the extremely tight cases. In addition to providing a good grip, the heat from welding the nut to the joint will help in getting it moving.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:38 pm

Thanks for the replies. I can't imagine it will come out too easily! It looks as though it was fitted by Andre Citroen himself..

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:39 pm

If you can get a windy gun on the proper socket they\'re ALOT easier to remove!

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:53 pm

So far I've not met a joint that wouldn't have come out with this method. I usually start by trying with the socket, but if it feels too tight, I take the welding machine out and use the "nut method".

The holding tool is made from an old wheel rim.

Post by **Defender110** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:55 pm

All good stuff this thanks guys , and just to reiterate Jay W's 'tip 2' I once saw one explode on a Renault Master van my mate was heating up.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:09 pm

In terms of quality AEP list Lemforder ones which were the OEM for Citroen. Don't know if postage would be an issue though.

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:37 pm

mat_fenwick wrote:In terms of quality AEP list Lemforder ones which were the OEM for Citroën.

I must admit that I actually don't know anything about this, but however remember being told that today you can't be sure of the actual manufacturer of even parts with Lemförder logo in the packaging. In my experience, 10 years ago TRW ball joints were good for 4-5 years and 200 000 - 250 000 km. Now it seems that they need to be replaced annually or at least every 100 000 km. At MOT last week, they found excessive play at a TRW labeled ball joint I installed just six months ago.

On the upside, the parts come off easily if you replace them every year..

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:52 pm

Looking at the various ball joints for sale on the internet I saw a single TRW one for €48 - is that the going rate? At the other end of the scale there's 2 'no name' ones for sale inc. postage for €19. Those AEP ones are also very reasonable.
I bought some no-name brake pads two years ago that looked crap just from the cheesy cheapo packaging but they've been very good. I suppose these days, as you point out Riku, it's a bit of a lottery.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:10 pm

You're right, the name on the box is no indication of who actually made it but I would have thought that if they made the parts for Citroen, they would continue making them (not necessarily to the same quality...) for the aftermarket. When I worked for QH that is what we did, and only outsourced and re-boxed the low volume parts that it wasn't economical to tool up for. It was usually more profitable to manufacture in house rather than buy in.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:36 pm

i would not use too much heat as it can melt the grease in the wheel bearing, then that will be your next job,

regards malcolm

Post by **Defender110** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:48 pm

rmattila wrote:On the upside, the parts come off easily if you replace them every year..

always look on the bright side; love it