Removing broken/rusted stud

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:00 pm

Not on a BX but my Merc bus.

The alternator on the Merc is suspended on a bracket which is fixed with two studs directly onto the engine block. While removing this bracket one of the nuts sheared off and left half a stud and it's not moving.

So far I've only tried heat and a good pair of vice-grips. I don't have the space or the angle to get a drill on it so it looks as though I'll have to try to weld a nut on it or something.

I'm sure this is a problem common on all old cars so any ideas appreciated.

Thankyou

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:35 pm

Welding a nut on is probably the best bet - the heat will help loosen its grip. Also tapping with a hammer can sometimes help as you are applying a turning force (like an impact driver).

Reminds me of the fun afternoon I spent drilling out one of the crank pulley bolts on the van (what is it about old German tin?) - it was too recessed to weld to it and the only way to drill it without removing the engine was to use a right angled drill adaptor!

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:45 pm

Thanks Mat. Right-angled drill adaptor? Sounds as though that could be useful..

I just looked on Youtube and there's a couple of products available for broken/recessed bolts in America of course - 'Easy-Out' ( yeah sure!) which involves a left cutting drill bit and a special bit which grips on the bolt once it's been drilled.

Then there's these sort of tapered sockets which you bash onto the bolt remains. The demo vid has particularly nasty 90s techno cheese soundtrack.

Anyone tried any of these? Are they available outside of The Land of The Free(ks)?

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:04 pm

There are proper stud extractors, but if it's really stuck in position, it still won't come out. As I well know. The one I was trying to get out just snapped further down and needed drilling out...

Presume the block's iron though? That helps. If you haven't left it soaking in penetrating oil, I'd nip out and do so right now. Belting with a hammer might help but when it comes to heat, I guess you really need to heat the block rather than the stud.

sdelasal · Post by **sdelasal** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:06 pm

and I think if you break off one of the stud removers you end up with a bigger problem on your hands as you can''t then drill out the hardened steel thats broken off in there

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:07 pm

toddao wrote:Right-angled drill adaptor?

toddao wrote:a special bit which grips on the bolt once it's been drilled.

Or in reality, a special bit that snaps off flush in the hole you've drilled and is harder than any drill bits known to man so cannot be drilled out.

EDIT - looks like we posted at the same time Steve.

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:54 am

If there's any room, I would weld a spacer to the stud instead of a nut, and then use a suitable pipe wrench or similar to turn the spacer. It's usually easier to get a good weld with a spacer than with a nut.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:01 am

That's a good idea, as if the stud is very short the hole in the nut can fill up with weld before it welds to the stud.

If the stud is long enough for 2 nuts to be screwed onto it you can tighten them together and use the innermost one to unscrew it but chances are if it's that stuck it will shear off again!

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:10 pm

I've yet to find a person satisfied with the "stud extractor tools" - the problem is: if it's stuck, it's not much use to drill it even weaker and then use a tool that will in one way or another expand it further.

The welding method is good. If the stud is broken such that the end is still visible, just weld the spacer and get a good grip with the added benefit of the welding heat to crack it loose. If the break is inside the thread, first put a thin bush of the correct outer dimension to protect the thread and then use a special Certanium welding electrode to "grow" the stud out from the hole. And then proceed with the spacer.

Generally no big deal.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:37 pm

Thanks for the ideas. Makes it sound easy! I'm going to weld onto it and try my luck on Saturday when the weather is supposed to break.

I thought this would have been worth a try but it's not available in Europe. It seems though Sears does offer a mail order service to the rest of the world.

Thankyou to one of our members currently 'stateside' who sent me the link and offered to pick it up for me!

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:49 pm

I sorted the pesky broken stud out this arvo. This was the solution, I found it on line for €15 - 'BGS' Stud extractor - waited four days for it to arrive and today applied it. It's really a good thing, I thought the stud had broken again but it had turned once this thing gripped. Good for broken studs/bolts from 6mm-18mm. Merc is now back on the road..