door hinge panel finally rusted through..

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rmattila
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Post by rmattila »

Do you usually have three-phase mains available at home in the UK? If so, I would highly recommend obtaining a 3 phase MIG. Much easier to get a good and controllable arc than with a small 1 phase machine, especially if you have very limited experience.

As to the helmet, there's my ultimate solution:

http://www.rmattila.com/images/remontit ... mg021.jpeg
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electrokid
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Post by electrokid »

There are some very skinny cutting disks you can use in the Dremel - takes ages and you need to be accurate 100% of the time because they break very easily - so far I've been using B&D discs but these Silverline are probably similar...

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=cutt ... m270.l1313

You might need the universal collet kit for the Dremel.

You can be more accurate with the cut, it heats the job less than a grinding wheel, and it's not such a load on the Dremel - particularly if you have the battery model - but you'll need...

Goggles.
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

electrokid wrote:you'll need...

Goggles.
And avoid freshly charged batteries otherwise you'll end up deaf and rather jumpy for a while...

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electrokid
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Post by electrokid »

BOO !

:-# :wink:
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

WHAT?! :lol:
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electrokid
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Post by electrokid »

:lol: :lol:
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citsncycles
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Post by citsncycles »

I'm not sure whether I'll need to cut the whole panel the hinges are attached to or just the upper part.. Depends on the amount of rust and thickness of the steel I imagine.
I'm not sure of the best / easiest way to align the hinges if the whole panel has to be renewed.
Unless you are absolutely certain that you can get everything aligned properly I wouldn't recommend cutting both hinges out at once. Even if you need to replace it all I'd leave the bottom hinge in place so that you can use it to help locate the top hinge, using either the door or a jig made up of bits of steel before you start cutting. Once the top hinge is back in place then you can cut the bottom one out and rebuild if necessary.
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Post by rmattila »

citsncycles wrote:Unless you are absolutely certain that you can get everything aligned properly I wouldn't recommend cutting both hinges out at once. Even if you need to replace it all I'd leave the bottom hinge in place so that you can use it to help locate the top hinge, using either the door or a jig made up of bits of steel before you start cutting. Once the top hinge is back in place then you can cut the bottom one out and rebuild if necessary.
Hear the words of wisdom!

I'd say it's worthwhile to make a simple jig by taking the door off, putting two pieces of pipe (similar to the door-side hinge parts) into the hinges in the door frame and welding a steel bar between them. It's also possible to drill a 6 mm hole into this bar at a suitable location, put a M6 bolt through the hole and weld it (temporarily) to the door frame. With this bolt and the remaining hinge as two fixed points for the jig, it is (at least in theory) easier to align the jig correctly than just by using the one remaining hinge.
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Post by KevR »

rmattila wrote:Do you usually have three-phase mains available at home in the UK? If so, I would highly recommend obtaining a 3 phase MIG. Much easier to get a good and controllable arc than with a small 1 phase machine, especially if you have very limited experience.
Agreed about a 3-phase machine, but very few people have 3-phase at home in the UK. But it's worth getting an elderly pro-spec welder rather than a new one for the same price, in my experience. I used a Clarke turbo 150 for years, but the wirespeed n particular was always a bit hit and miss. Now got a 1970s BOC/Murex Transmig, which needs a hefty old power supply, but works a treat, and cost 75 euros...
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Post by mat_fenwick »

..that_
I've got the same Clarke, and whilst it was a damn sight better than the no-name brand that preceded it I have the same wire feed issues. This is more pronounced if there is a significant voltage drop, such as when the arc is struck whilst using a long extension lead. It's better since I put in a proper mains supply to the workshop, and hooked it up to its own dedicated supply, but somewhat of a pain if I need to go and weld something immobile for a mate... #-o
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I think I need some help now!

Post by themildbunch »

Well, we're still climbing in through the other door and I haven't managed to pin down my friend who was going to make the repair section and weld it for me...

I'm under pressure now to get this sorted by the end of the month when we go on a mammoth road trip to Shetland!

Anyone round this way willing to help? - food, beer, BX bits, web server space, even money available!
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Post by toddao »

I was just looking at the pretty picture again and I was wondering whether you've looked on the other side of the corrosion - the inner wing on the offending side? I reckon there could be a story there too - perhaps the cause of the visable problem? Or if you don't have the time to remove wing, have a look under the screen wash tank.
( Unfortunately this is my current hell-hole, having found two lovely rust colonies under said screen wash tanks. Thankfully almost dealt with now.)
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themildbunch
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Post by themildbunch »

Hi

Yes, I haven't taken the wing off yet - was going to get all ready for the cutting / welding day before I did that so I could have the means to tackle it then...

I've had a closer look behind the hinge though and it doens't look good - the other part of the a post looks very bad - looks like the water's drained from the roof and kind of stopped at this area to a degree and gradually eaten it away...

Would this now be a dash out job to repair?

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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

Can't really say without cutting back a bit more, but I've had success when welding close to delicate items (wiring/dashboards) by using a plumber's heat mat behind the area. You can dampen the mat slightly to increase the heat capacity it can absorb.
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Post by themildbunch »

Well - had a very long day on Friday and finally got this done and some other bits welded with the help of a local mobile welder who was great..

All of the top part just above the door cable grommet had to be cut out in addition to a section of the panel behind this but luckily nothing too near the dash so that could stay in place.

We cut and patched a small section on the inner wing too that had rotted by the plastic splash guard and covered everything I could with Bilt Hambers finest cavity wax and underseal - this ISN'T going to rust again!

Also managed to weld the pedal bracket in situ on the throttle side that had almost split up to the pivot... This wasn't too difficult if you're careful to pull back all the carpet and sound deadening.
Removing the whole bracket would have been a horrible job due to the lack of access on the Turbo Diesel and the horrible design on the clutch cable assembly...

More details and lots of photos to follow...
1988 BX 19 Gti 16v
1991 BX 17 TZD Estate
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