Rear suspension units

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 2:36 pm

as rmattila says No. 3 is only a support for the tail end of the cylinder,

it odd though that the left and right ones are handed on estates but not saloons, as it should be the same fitting appart from a diferent sized centre form the fatter suspension unit,

regards malcolm

Discoil · Post by **Discoil** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:45 pm

citronut wrote: it odd though that the left and right ones are handed on estates but not saloons, as it should be the same fitting appart from a diferent sized centre form the fatter suspension unit,regards malcolm

From memory , It is where the rubber boot is fitted. Undo the wire clip, turn the boot to the required location and refit.

This is a 15 year old memory that I'm working with

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 4:17 pm

There's a pair I salvaged from a 1990 Van (which started its life as a Break) that was going to the scrappers:

Apart from the deformation caused by the need to use force in the dismantling process, they look quite identical to me. The only thing that comes to my mind is, if you look at the drawing on the previous page, there seems to be only one hole drawn for the hydraulic pipe in part 3, not two as in my photo. This would make the part handed, as the supply pipe leaves the housing in a different direction on starboard and port side strut (towards the wheel on each side - see pic).

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:53 pm

I presume that i just need No5? to succesfully remove the rear strut & fit a nice shiny new one?

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:07 pm

MULLEY wrote:I presume that i just need No5? to succesfully remove the rear strut & fit a nice shiny new one?

That's right, although it rarely breaks in the process and can thus be re-used. Sometimes that pin is really tight, and you need a suitable punch to drive it out. Sometimes it comes off just like that. (And sometimes the rod sits tight even after removing the pin..)

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:10 pm

Riku, you clearly don't know my car very well, if something can be re-used, i'll guarantee it'll break on mine

I'll order one just incase

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:29 pm

MULLEY wrote:I'll order one just incase

Of course it's prudent to use an original part whenever possible - however, concerning this specific pin, I would be tempted to use whatever strip of sufficiently strong wire I could get my hands on that will fit through the hole at the end of the push rod. Just twist it so that it will not slip out and for all practical purposes it's as good as the original.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:30 pm

MULLEY wrote:Riku, you clearly don't know my car very well, if something can be re-used, i'll guarantee it'll break on mine

If you suspect things of being tight, rusted-in or likely to burr or break then the application of WD40 followed by 3-in-one penetrating spray works wonders. If you use the sprays a few hours before or the day before the job it is even more effective.

Linegeist · Post by **Linegeist** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:35 am

I've found ordinary diesel to be hugely effective at freeing up seized steel components. The stuff'll penetrate anything - given time - and chucking a rusty sub-assembly into a bath of diesel (or a bin liner for large stuff - after a liberal spraying of DERV) yields almost magical results after a week or so.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:14 pm

i agree with Bob and certainly dont go anywere near the W stuff, as it dont do what it says on the can,

it causes you to need more,

Discoil
i was not refering to the strut gaitor's being handed,
it is the support plat as in the picy's we a talking about

regards malcolm

Discoil · Post by **Discoil** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:38 pm

citronut wrote:Discoil
i was not refering to the strut gaitor's being handed,
it is the support plat as in the picy's we a talking about
regards malcolm

I would put it down to an elderly moment by not reading ALL the posts on the relevant subject before putting in a reply

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:33 pm

your not alone Discoil

and i have been working on citroens many more tham 15 years

regards malcolm

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:18 pm

citronut wrote:i agree with Bob and certainly dont go anywere near the W stuff, as it dont do what it says on the can,

it causes you to need more

I would have agreed with you once on the W as I had abandoned it and migrated to the 3-in-1 Penetrating.

However although the 3-in-1 was better it became magically better when combined with the W as posted.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:12 am

i still think plussgas or diesel fuel is better, but then again i have never tried the W and 3in1 mix, and probably never will

regards malcolm

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:29 am

I was just looking at the picture above of the retaining plates.

It did not seem to to register as correct in my memory, so i dug out the two that I have and took a picture.

They are definitely handed, and the pressings are different.

They came off a 1986 BX 17RD