Tie-rods

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:50 pm

Are these interchangeable left and right? I've seen a parts place offering L/H and R/H versions though interestingly Citroen only has availability for L/H ones which has led me to believe that perhaps they are the same?

Many other parts factors only offer one type. Can anyone explain?

Cheers!

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:27 pm

Inner ends are interchangeable, outer ends are not. Part #:s 95 496 044 (left), 95 496 045 (right). (I presume the parts are the same for right/left hand driven models.)

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:34 pm

What's the difference then Riku? And I wonder why only the L/H one is available from Citroen - maybe all the R/H ones wore out quicker?

So this is the inner part. Does this require a special tool to remove/ fit? And if the outer link balljoints are kaputt is it likely this will be too?

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:46 pm

The location of outer end ball joint does not coincide with the inner end's axis:

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:47 pm

Ah, thanks for the pic. I just added an edit to my previous post. This is all new to me..

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:52 pm

toddao wrote:So this is the inner part. Does this require a special tool to remove/ fit? And if the outer link balljoints are kaput is it likely this will be too?

No special tools are needed, just a good plumber's wrench or similar. In my experience (80 000 km per year on our family's BX:s, partly on quite bad roads), the outer ends wear at least twice as quickly as the inner ends.

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:04 pm

And another comment: it makes life a lot easier if you change the tie rods one side at a time, and adjust the wheel alignment in between. If you don't have proper wheel alignment measuring tools at hand, just choose a long straight strip of road, and check the steering wheel alignment prior to the change; then, after changing the tie rods on each side adjust the amount of exposed thread so that the car travels straight with the steering wheel in the same position.

Since there probably was some play prior to the change, you won't get perfect angles with this method, but it's better than nothing until you can properly measure the toe (should be toe-out 0 to 3 mm). And checking the toe separately after each side also helps to ensure that the track rod will not move from its centre position due to the adjustment operations.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:07 pm

Once I've removed the tie-rod 'ends' I should then be able to feel the condition of the inner axial joints hopefully? If I have to renew all of it, how do I get the adjustment correct with the amount of thread or do I just measure it off from how it is now?

I'm having to replace every bearing and balljoint in the front end of my break as they've all been neglected by previous cowboy(s) owners so I suppose the inner one will be cactus too!

Thanks for the info Riku..

Edit: I see you just posted while I was writing back

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:15 pm

toddao wrote:Once I've removed the tie-rod 'ends' I should then be able to feel the condition of the inner axial joints hopefully?

I suppose that would be easier to do after undoing the outer end ball joints, but prior to detaching them from the inner ends. Easier to get a good grip of the outer end shaft than the tiny thread which makes the inner end.