hydraulic regulator overhaul - advice needed

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tim
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hydraulic regulator overhaul - advice needed

Post by tim »

The wife's white BX has had a small leak from somewhere around the regulator base for a long time now, locating it not having been helped by previous weeps from the bottom pipe etc. All now sorted, and I got underneath today to find the drip once and for all. It confirms what I thought last year - I'm convinced the leak is from the plastic base on the bottom of the regulator; I assume there is either a gasket or a rubber seal between it and the body. it only seems to get going when the system is 'working', when the motor is simply running in neutral you can get neckache waiting for a little green drop to appear. Question - if I remove the unit, what do I need and what can I do to overhaul it? I don't want to dismantle it until I can refit it quickly as the car is used every day. I tried to find threads on the forum leading to overhaul info but no joy - maybe my lack of computer skill.....any advice appreciated. Also info as to anyone selling overhaul seals kits if this is what's needed.
Just to forestall the obvious, With the car on ramps and a good light you can see where it is'nt coming from - the sphere is nearly new and tight, and clearly not leaking. And the hose off is tightly clipped on and in good nick ( the previous edition having split and caused th ol' red light syndrome in the outside lane of the M4 in rush hour...sheeit, move over yer basstards, the hard shoulder calls). And the steel pipe union is tight and clean.
As Andy posted recently, three BX diesel estates in convoy down the High St last week - must be a rare sight!
Mothman

Post by Mothman »

Cant help you with any detail Tim but would it be an idea to replace it with one off the scrapper?

Andy
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Post by Defender110 »

This leak is usually a weap from one or more of the 4 small end caps on the valve above ( they look like small inverted core plugs 2 either side of the valve)
As you say they only weap when active and it is not a high pressure weap. I cured mine by simply cleaning both sides by spraying them with brake cleaner and once evaporated I smeared sides of the valve covering these end caps with one pack polyurethane filler adhesive (available from all body shop / auto paint suppliers) Once set a couple of hours later it forms a perfect tuff but flexible seal.
I did this on both my cars and they have remained bone dry.
Kevan
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tim
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Post by tim »

Well, as we are lucky enough to have a source of spares it's certainly an option especially as the regulator has done over 270,000 miles and is I suspect getting a bit tired as the tick time is quite high compared to mine. But I would still want to strip down the leaker and fix it! Certainly. gluing the bugger up solid would sound practical but I still hope someone will read this and say that I need O-ring or gasket so-and-so. The base seemed to me to be held on with small allen screws so it looks like it's easily removed, but experience has taught me not to try to remove something like that without having the appropriate parts to hand, as there's a chance that the obviously degrading seal will come to bits.
Mothman

Post by Mothman »

But then a simple fix Tim will save you a lot of bother.
Remember, you did that with the throttle cable and its still in situ and working.

Andy
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Post by MULLEY »

Those allen key bolts on mine look a bit rusty & i was worried that they would snap off if i tried to undo them, i've got the exact same leak i think.
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
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