BX rear discs...

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:03 am

...why did they bother...? They clearly don't do anything much. Just changed my rears because they'd pretty much rusted away to nothing. The pads were still nearly as thick as when new, and I know for a fact that they haven't been touched in the 55,000 miles I've had the car, and probably not in the previous 100,000 either...

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon May 09, 2011 12:35 pm

Sounds like you need to start braking much harder

Or, leave some heavy paving slabs in the boot, apparently that helps the rear pads come in contact with the discs. I presume that your rear calipers are working correctly?

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Mon May 09, 2011 12:42 pm

Yep, calipers are working perfectly, and the car's regularly loaded to the gunwales with building materials and/or towing a big trailer. And I'm not shy of giving it some welly on the brakes either – ex-racing driver...

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon May 09, 2011 12:45 pm

Perhaps softer brake pads in the rear might help with biting into the disc a bit more seeing as they hardly appear to get used?

What did you use to race in?

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Mon May 09, 2011 1:00 pm

Used to race 2CVs - 24hr mostly. Oh, and lots of motorbikes. And bicycles (still do that). Even did some JCB racing once!.

I'm not buying any more rear pads - I've just fitted a NOS genuine Cit set to the TZD, and I've got another set on the shelf, plus a couple of hardly worn sets of used ones - should be enough to last me 'til I'm about 90! Not sure if anyone makes any softer ones anyway.

rayfenwick · Post by **rayfenwick** » Mon May 09, 2011 1:29 pm

When I took my CX 22TRS to the MOT last week, it failed on rear brake effort. The front discs and pads were replaced in December (about 400 miles ago I think) but the rears look a bit naff.

So I've just bought some Brembo discs and pads for it (not much more expensive than no-name stuff on ebay) and will fit those for the retest, which should improve the braking effort from the rear.

Given the weight distribution of the CX I reckon they should last a very long time...

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Mon May 09, 2011 1:44 pm

the disc's usualy go all rusty either by there being air in the rear braking circuit, or the pads were not copper slipped on fitting so they are/were stuck in the calliper body,

especialy if you regularly carry lots of wheight in the back,

regards malcolm

rayfenwick · Post by **rayfenwick** » Mon May 09, 2011 2:50 pm

The air thing is worth a try, as the front end does bob up and down sometimes by itself - Neil CGAT reckoned it was air, and I'm inclined to agree. More Citrobics it is, then.

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Mon May 09, 2011 2:55 pm

citronut wrote:the disc's usualy go all rusty either by there being air in the rear braking circuit, or the pads were not copper slipped on fitting so they are/were stuck in the calliper body,

especialy if you regularly carry lots of wheight in the back,

regards malcolm

Good call - I've been meaning to give this car a good flush/bleed out at some point anyway so that's a good excuse.

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Mon May 09, 2011 3:04 pm

does anyone know why those metal panel things are behind the discs, I've taken mine off, doesn't stop the rust though. Also my Honda Accord has them on the rear AND on the front, but not taken them off.

MOT tester doesn't care whether those panels are there, but it helps him to see the condition of the discs and pads with them off, and he says that rust is not an issue as long as the discs are not structurally compromised and the braking on the rolling road is even and reaches the required effort.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Mon May 09, 2011 7:33 pm

Citrobic's wont get the air out of any of the brake circuit's as they are all 4 dead ends, so the only way to do this is bleed the brakes via the kniples

,

also i have seen hydraulic citroens sale throughthe brake roller test with completly knackerd brakes, as they have far more power than the usualy brakes,

the brake bake plates are not to stop rust but grit and crap ingrese,

regards malcolm

rayfenwick · Post by **rayfenwick** » Mon May 09, 2011 8:39 pm

I see. Ok, I can bleed the brakes, but is the suspension self-bleeding? Could it be something other than air, for example crap in the height corrector?

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:04 pm

rayfenwick wrote: crap in the height corrector?

How often do you need to do that...?

rayfenwick · Post by **rayfenwick** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:07 pm

It'd take one hell of an aim...

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:10 am

rayfenwick wrote:It'd take one hell of an aim...

use a funnle

yes Ray the up and down part of the system is self bleeding more or less,

citroen used to state after working on the hydraulic system to let the car sit idleling with the regulator bleed valve open for a couple of minuites,

regards malcolm