Wooscary wrote:
The estates don't have the wider rear arches that (most of) the saloons have, so you're right, there'll be less clearance with wider tyres.
the part of the body the tyres will touch/rub is the inner wing, and i belive this is the same on all BX's,
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
citronut wrote:the part of the body the tyres will touch/rub is the inner wing
I have to disagree I'm afraid, at least based on my own limited experience.
Several years ago now, I swapped the standard 165 width tyres on steel wheels for a set of 195s on 16v Speedlines. They did not catch on the inner wing but rubbed slightly on the outer wing. This was cured by teasing the wing outwards with a claw hammer, using a strip of wood to spread the load and protect the paint.
Interestingly, after changing to a different brand of tyres (nominally same width) I found they were noticeably wider, and had to partially fold the wing lip up and out of the way to prevent rubbing.
mat_fenwick wrote:
Several years ago now, I swapped the standard 165 width tyres on steel wheels for a set of 195s on 16v Speedlines. They did not catch on the inner wing but rubbed slightly on the outer wing. .
Same here - I cured it by taking them off and putting the originals back on!
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!
Well, anyway, the pulling out slightly of the the outer arch seems to have solved the issue for now.
So, back to the turbo/noise issue. Is there a way to disengage the turbo and run the engine to see if the noise is still there?
Also, does anyone have a turbo they'd sell me? How much am I looking at?
The Citroen garage I go to said it would take about 5 hours to fit a turbo, so £150ish. Does this sound reasonable?
I need to either solve the problem, or buy another interim car by the end of July as the girlfriend will actually kill me if we drive to Spain with this noise. I promised to have it sorted by the time we drove to Berlin at new year, so this time it could be curtains.
My Cars: 1999 Xsara LX 2.0HDI (90) Hatch - Fern 2002 C5 2.0 HDI (110) Estate - Jasmine - SORN 2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD 2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement 1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - SORN 1992 TZD Turbo Estate - SORN 1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired - SORN 1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped 2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car 1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014 1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN 1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN
That's £30p/h, absolute bargain in my book, even my cheap garage is now close to £40p/h. No idea if its a 5hr job though, the more learned can advise.
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN
Well, if it's any guidance I wouldn't want to commit to doing it in 5 hours if it hadn't been off for a while. If everything undoes perfectly (ha!) I'd say it's doable in less time, but on balance sounds like a fair price.
Any turbo thoughts? I'm happy(!?) to pay for a new turbo and to have it fitted if that is indeed the problem, but is there a way to pin point the noise to the turbo? I don't know if it's a stupid idea as I don't know how it works, but can I in some way disengage the turbo and run the engine without it to see if the noise it still there.
If they've diagnosed the problem with the turbo (as it seem from what you've said), then you shouldn't have to pay if that diagnosis is incorrect. You're paying them to fix the noise, not to replace a turbo.
I have an old Pioneer head unit, which developed the habit of cutting out after a period of time. I found a company who have me a quote for repairing it, but the problem came back the same day after re-fitting it. I didn't think it unreasonable to get them to repair the fault at no extra charge to me, as I had paid them a reasonable amount to diagnose and repair it.
If they make it clear to you that it's just a guess as to the cause of the noise, I'm not sure where you would stand with that if it didn't fix the problem though.
That's the problem, we drove it around for quite a while (well he did, think he was reminiscing about his long gone TZD), and he said that was what it sounded like and could be. Now, I don't know how hard/expensive it is going to be to get hold of a known good turbo, and I'd happily pay it, but if I then supply it to them to fit and it doesn't solve the problem, well. Anyway, I'm procrastinating on issues which aren't really solvable.
I think I'll book it in and let them have a proper look without me cracking jokes at them every two seconds.
Other than the obvious pipes for the air/turbo/intercooler on top of the engine, are there any others further down which could be loose and creating a noise, as to me (and admittedly the mechanic) it could still potentially sound like a loose hose somewhere?
Argh, apologies for the diatribe, I'm just not able to conjure up what SHE is going to do to me on the way to Spain if it's still doing it.
