If the light comes on...

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Philip Chidlow
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If the light comes on...

Post by Philip Chidlow »

OK. This was the situation. Our BX TXD had just been driven 340 miles - mostly at around 65-75 mph with the outside temp at 29 degrees or so most of the way. Worked fine. All was well.

Arrived at Eurotunnel and had to sit in the queues of cars, creeping along through passport control for over an hour and a half before we were able to board. Temp still around the 27 degree mark. I didn't leave the engine running all the time, and it was all a bit stop-start. Finally we got moving and as I am boarding the train the orange light on the temp indicator comes on. I have no choice but to drive on into the train and I guess it was nearly a minute before I could turn the engine off.

Once the train was moving the bonnet was opened to aid cooling and after a few mins I checked, and the light didn't come on. I am worried that on reflection, the electric fan didn't come on promptly enough. (Which is why I need it checked and a manual override switch fitted for peace of mind).

Having driven the car 100 miles after the crossing with no apparent ill-effects have I been lucky? How do I tell if any lasting damage has been caused. It's just had an oil/filter change with Mobil 1 synthetic, so hopefully the oil's still OK?
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

You can check for excessive pressurisation in the cooling system by loosening the filler cap say 30 seconds after a cold start. There *should* be no hiss.

It's a bit late now, but you kind of already have a manual override switch - turn turn the air con on!
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Post by Way2go »

mat_fenwick wrote: It's a bit late now, but you kind of already have a manual override switch - turn turn the air con on!
I do that too when in long queues as I can see by the temp gauge that the engine can get hotter than the standard 90 degrees with the lower water flow and before the fans cut in. (temperature switch is at the bottom of the rad) Turning air-con on reduces it below the 90 with immediate effect. :D
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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Sadly the air con, when switched on had developed a disturbing rattle just prior to the queuing... so I avoided turniung it on! :cry:

That'll get checked and fixed along with the fan switch if that needs looking at.
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

Way2go wrote:temp gauge
Rub it in why don't you! But I'd suggest it's a worthwhile and easy mod if you can obtain one.
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electrokid
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Post by electrokid »

IMHO the connections at the temp switch at the bottom of the rad and the in-line connector behind the NS headlamp to the fan itself should be checked and cleaned once a year - pre-MOT being a convenient time. When replacing the in-line connector try to get it behind the plastic shield below the headlamp and therefore protected from rain.

I'd guess the best time to check it is the start of warm weather - my earlier thought about pre-MOT is probably because that coincides in my case with warmer weather anyway.
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Post by kiwi »

Same things happened to me Phil with that yellow light on the TRS and so far no noticable ill effects. Other than the heater matrix leaks because this all happened around the time I changed the antifreeze.
In my case was the result of faulty Fuses! Not blown just old and Faulty, it took 3 fuse replacements to get the fan working.

Slight thread hijack but does anyone else with Aircon notice and increase, should say loss of coolant usage?
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Post by mat_fenwick »

I have no detectable coolant usage, and I can't see why air con would affect it. :?
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Post by mds141 »

Phil turn the heater control to max hot it will divert heat from the cooling system into the passenger cabin.
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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Hi, did that turning the heater on bit, (of course without a temp gauge it's hard to see how helpful it was in that minute) and as yet it seems there have been absolutely no ill effects. Fingers crossed :)

I did burn some oil on the trip - about 300ml in the end. but I guess given how it was running at sustained high-ish revs for some time I shouldn't be surprised. The car seems to have loosened up a bit now and the gearbox/change is very smooth now (after the fluid change and treatment with Activ8).

On thing I need to check is the air con rattle. My guess is the belt is making contact with something like some old plastic tape or has slipped a tad towards the outside? No visible damage to the belt. Either that or it's a fault with the compressor... The belt squeals a bit when cold so hopefully it's all belt-related (I have two spares).
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Post by Way2go »

Philip Chidlow wrote: On thing I need to check is the air con rattle. My guess is the belt is making contact with something like some old plastic tape or has slipped a tad towards the outside? No visible damage to the belt. Either that or it's a fault with the compressor...
Was the oil changed in the compressor when the system was re-charged and changed from R12? If the change was made to R132a then the old oil is incompatable. If R132a has been used you should also see a fitting kit on the old pipes underneath for recharging of the refrigerant.
I expect things are correct but it may be as well to check.

Incidentally, I hear there is an alternative now which is compatible with the original R12 and that is R409A which is also compatible with the original oil so it doesn't need to be cleared out. It would be interesting to hear whether any of our members have experience of this.
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

The air con was professionally retro-fitted a few years back using R413a and I had the system checked by an air con specialist towards the end of May. He said it was working perfectly and didn't need to regas - which was good :)

I'm sure it's nothing that can't be fixed. Fortunate really that the weather's changed and I don't need it for the time being :lol:
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Post by Way2go »

I seem to remember that R413a was more expensive per charge than R134a after conversion as it is a blended HFC. What prices were you quoted for a vac & recharge. (I intend to do mine in the not too distant.....).

Incidentally R413a now seems to have been directly replaced by R437a according to DuPont (which also replaces the before mentioned R409A)........see info quote:
DuPont™ ISCEON® MO49 (R413A)

ISCEON® MO49 (R413A) is an easy to use, non-ozone depleting HFC retrofit refrigerant blend of R134a, R218 and R600a. Please note that this product has been replaced with ISCEON® MO49PlusTM (R437A).

ISCEON® MO49 has replaced R12 in automotive, stationary air conditioning and direct expansion medium temperature stationary refrigeration systems.

ISCEON® MO49 provides equal or better cooling capacity and comparable energy efficiency to R12 but with lower discharge temperatures.

ISCEON® MO49 provides a quick, easy and cost effective retrofit and in most cases no change of oil is required as it is compatible with traditional and new lubricants. This product can be topped up during service without removing the entire refrigerant charge.

As ISCEON® MO49 is a blend it should always be removed from the cylinder as a liquid when charging the system.

DuPont™ ISCEON® MO49Plus™ (R437A)

ISCEON® MO49PlusTM (R437A) is an easy to use, non-ozone depleting HFC retrofit refrigerant blend of R134a, R125, R600 and R601.

ISCEON® MO49PlusTM is suitable to replace refrigerants that replaced R12 in automotive, stationary air conditioning and direct expansion medium temperature stationary refrigeration systems.

It is an ideal replacement for HCFC containing blends R401A/B and R409A/B.

ISCEON® MO49PlusTM provides better cooling capacity and comparable energy efficiency to R12 but with lower discharge temperatures.

ISCEON® MO49PlusTM provides a quick, easy and cost effective retrofit and in most cases no change of oil is required as it is compatible with traditional and new lubricants. This product can be topped up during service without removing the entire refrigerant charge.

As ISCEON® MO49PlusTM is a blend it should always be removed from the cylinder as a liquid when charging the system.
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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

I was told it would be around £50-70 for a recharge. In the end it wasn't necessary. An inherited system, so I don't have the choice but it seems to work OK.
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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Well it seems to me that the rattle is coming from the compressor and it is quite loud, so something's gone bang (although I did run it for a few seconds and the air con does still work - not that I'm using it anymore).
Mark said a replacement (assuming he's got one) is £30. So next time it's up on a ramp we'll have a proper look.
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