How do they do it?????????

BX Tech talk
AlanS
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[b]UPDATE!![/b]

Post by AlanS » Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:09 pm

Had a poke around and found the Valeo relay. Started car which acted normally, disconnected; made no difference.
Found a dodgy connection under the dash and fixed it. Went for a drive of around 40 klms and all went well until I (once again) braked at an intersection and on came the waling willys. :shock: :oops:
Got to a friends place, disconnected same relay and again made no difference; this time it was eeaawing whereas previously it was OK but in neither instance did it make a difference but in both cases it started as soon as I hit the brakes and came almost to a stop.
I'm beginning to think it may be a dodgy earth or an earth that has been disturbed or almost broken off.
After driving about 40+ klms with that bloody thing waling in my earhole, I'm off to bed. Betcha I have nightmares about this bloody noise!! :twisted: :twisted: :shock: :shock:


Any more suggestions????


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.

AlanS
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Post by AlanS » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:22 pm

Still no joy; have posted this on a list today but will post here as well to see if we can pool some knowledge on these blooooooody auto boxes. :evil: :evil: :evil:


Alan S
Thanks again Bob.
Before I received your message, I removed, cleaned up the earth on the
inner guard as well as cleaned refitted and tightened the earth
terminal on the battery. Took the car for a run into town to collect a
Telly for a mate and after about 2 miles as I was driving down a
suburban street, without warning, it all started again.
Had suspected in the past that the auto tended to get a bit silly when
this "eeaaawing" starts, but on this trip, very noticeable. Hanging on
in gears, stalling at traffic lights in the same manner as a manual
would if you forget to declutch, idle speed seemed to drop by around
150 rpm, gear changes both up and down became noticeable, changing to
N when slowing down caused a massive thump (felt like the engine was
doing about 3000rpm when slipped back into drive even though it was
idling) and generally being a pig to drive.
Came home (complete with warning siren still waling) and disconnected
the relay that controls the bloody noisy thing; lights stayed on.
Had a cuppa and collected a bit of gear, started car, lights went out.
Drove off and gearbox seemed a bit iffy at first but then seemed to
settle down well. Drove to the far side of Maryborough (about 42 - 45
klms away) and as we got almost to our destination, lights came on.
Delivered the TV (say 45 minutes) got back to car, started engine,
lights stayed on and again, auto felt piggy what bit it was used.
I originally was of the opinion it was brakes that had some bearing on
this due to them always being in the picture when it failed, but as
the auto changes down as the car slows and based on this playing up it
now does when the warning lights are on, could it be associated with
the electrics in the auto and if so.............where are they and
where do we start??


Alan
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.

Geoffrey Gould
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Auto box etc.

Post by Geoffrey Gould » Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:58 am

Hello Alan the weak point on the box seems to be the brake band they do have a reputation for wearing and busting, they do have an external adjustment. Large locknut with "allen" headed bolt in centre, near top of box on rear face near to the bell housing end, hope this makes sence. Mark position , undo lock nut and torque "allen" to 71/2 (seven and a half ) lbs / ft. wind back 2 turns and lock.
The other thing is that the filter could be blocked especially if your favourite and mine has been used, Dexron 3. Depending on how bad things are then band and filter would be worth doing.
As regards your noise, knowing ( I think ) how thorough you are, the common factor seems to be that you get this happening when you have braked is a fluid level warning happening whether in fact or a fault. Probably not likely. Is your sump dented?
Cheers and all the best.
Geoff.

AlanS
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Post by AlanS » Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:40 pm

So you guys don't get the sound of 'fornicating felines' when something goes amiss?
I had already tried the battery to gearbox earth strap but haven't as yet looked at the one near the steering column.
Numbnut started belting the crap out of the dash after the noise started, so I would be a bit sceptical that it is that one, I still reckon I'll find something external that he's fiddled with.
Are there any solenoids or relays involved with the gearbox on these? I took it for a short run yesterday and just as I was almost home, on came the lights and sure enough, away went the gearchanges again. I'm not ruling out the possibility that perhaps the lights come on when the system hits a certain temperature and this may be why things go haywire at the same time as the lights come on so is more mechanically related than electrical. I can't accept it as coincidental as it happens so often.
I'm a bit slow getting this sorted as I am now involved in a head off an Mi16 plus power steering dramas and with the weather here at present, grass is growing almost while you look at it. I cut it 2 days ago and I kid you not, it's already grown at least 4 inches.
I also have the Xantia to service as I'm off for a few days in a week or so and will have around 3,000 klms to cover, so want that to be all checked before the event.
Thanks so far for the comments, I'll check tham all as I get time. Keep 'em coming.


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.

Geoffrey Gould
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Auto box.

Post by Geoffrey Gould » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:24 pm

Hello Alan there are no electrical gubbins connected to the box apart from the switch that controls the reversing lights and the P/N starter inhibitor.
Do you have a accurate engine temp indication ie. gauge as I was wondering if this was firing off a warning, also the gearbox has a ATF cooler in line with the engine oil cooler (almost the same thing, if you see what I mean.) so you can see where Im going, Im not sure of the effect overheating of the ATF would be, wouldnt be a problem here of course. The operating temp of the box is 100 degrees. the hoses can collapse inside and restrict the coolant. The coolers can also leak coolant into the engine/box internals. Im sorry if it seems as if I am teaching you to suck eggs but thought it would be worth a mention.
Just had a thought, had a problem with the wiring from the reversing light switch which caused a completely random fuse blowing, not dependent on seemingly anything, this would overheat and finally blow fuse No. 1 which amongst other things stopped the cooling fans.(engine). The problem was in the wiring under the battery.
This has probably nowt to do with your probs more the idiot trying to destroy your car.
Best wishes.
Geoff.

AlanS
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Post by AlanS » Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:01 am

Geoff,

The random way it happens means the temp can vary.
A few days ago I went 40 klms and it played up. Then I went 45 klms and it did the same thing. In between times, I went about 3 klms and got the same result.
I've got an Mi16 engine in bits at present and two other cars to drive, so I may put this one on the backburner and meditate on it and keep consiidering any and all suggestions; she's a weirdo this one though. :roll:
Thanks again for the suggestions.


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.

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DLM
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Post by DLM » Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:55 pm

ALAN - you have my sympathy.

I think the BX would have become distinctly unpopular in the UK if the "stop" light switch triggered a warning every time it lit up - and especially given the treatment handed out to some BXs here.
Relying on two wheels and musclepower since the last BX (or any car) had to go.