Locking the flywheel TDC when changing belts. hacksaw?
Locking the flywheel TDC when changing belts. hacksaw?
started work today on changing the head gasket. I was lucky as the thermostat housing went off smoothly, even though one of the screws was badly rusted.
However, I'm again having trouble locking the flywheel. Last time I changed the cambelt, I just left it unlocked after failing to place the junior hacksaw. But for example Todd seems to have broken his camshaft even as he used a hacksaw.
But how else are you locking it? An 8mm drill it's supposed to be, but how on earth am I going to fit it in there? Do I need to remove the starter motor?
However, I'm again having trouble locking the flywheel. Last time I changed the cambelt, I just left it unlocked after failing to place the junior hacksaw. But for example Todd seems to have broken his camshaft even as he used a hacksaw.
But how else are you locking it? An 8mm drill it's supposed to be, but how on earth am I going to fit it in there? Do I need to remove the starter motor?
Carl
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
- themildbunch
- BXpert
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Hi
When I changed my water pump recently, I was sooooo careful after reading the posts and problems with locking and the hacksaw isn't easy or a definite fit down there so I took the starter off that makes it really easy to put an 8mm drill bit in the hole..
You might want to wrap some tape around the drill bit as it's a little bigger than 8mm if I remember...
I also remember removing the starter was a pain on my TZD unless you make yourself lots of room by removing all the trunking first...
Adrian
When I changed my water pump recently, I was sooooo careful after reading the posts and problems with locking and the hacksaw isn't easy or a definite fit down there so I took the starter off that makes it really easy to put an 8mm drill bit in the hole..
You might want to wrap some tape around the drill bit as it's a little bigger than 8mm if I remember...
I also remember removing the starter was a pain on my TZD unless you make yourself lots of room by removing all the trunking first...
Adrian
1988 BX 19 Gti 16v
1991 BX 17 TZD Estate
1991 BX 17 TZD Estate
1991 BX 17 TZD Estate
1991 BX 17 TZD Estate
- mat_fenwick
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I've got a feeling the aluminium sump is a slightly different shape to the normal steel sump - as I've done a number of XUDs using a hacksaw and had no problem getting it in. But when I've changed the belt on my BX after changing sumps, I too couldn't see how to get the hacksaw frame in!
I take the starter off now, even on a steel sump engine - maybe I'm getting less dextrous with age?
I take the starter off now, even on a steel sump engine - maybe I'm getting less dextrous with age?
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- BXpert
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I did my cambelt for the first time back in December and wrote it up so have a look back - about p5 I think. I found the hacksaw thing didn't work and was too sloppy, I simply found a stud of the right size in the bolt box. Yes, I did take the starter motor off, five minutes work and you can then see what you are doing, plus you can clean up the motor contacts while you are there.
- ken newbold
- Over 2k
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i use a longish length of 3/16th kunifer brake pipe which i dangle down behind the startter,
the good thing with this is firstly you can bend it to a shape to fit how/were you require, secondly if you forget to remove it before cranking the engine over you can still yank it out, even if it get all bent up , ,
also i cant see how a diferent sump can cause probs fitting this pin, as it goes into the crank case,
regards malcolm
the good thing with this is firstly you can bend it to a shape to fit how/were you require, secondly if you forget to remove it before cranking the engine over you can still yank it out, even if it get all bent up , ,
also i cant see how a diferent sump can cause probs fitting this pin, as it goes into the crank case,
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Well thanks guys, I just removed the starter motor. It really was easy after I removed the air inlet hose. Then I just used an L shaped piece of metal I had lying around wrapped with a little bit of tape for a snug fit.
Making good progress, continuing tomorrow...
Making good progress, continuing tomorrow...
Carl
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
-
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Is this the 16v? You align the crank at the pulley end on those?
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
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- Over 2k
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Oh this is the diesel? Wasn't sure, everyone seemed to be talking jibberish
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
- docchevron
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