Fast tick time (was Changing hydraulic pump)

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:14 pm

Changed the accumulator sphere at Mat's last night, but general consensus is that the pump is knackered. I'm getting the STOP light on at tickover sometimes, and the pump is running near continuously.

Happily, we were heading to a BX parts place, so I got a replacement pump for a tenner. Question is, what is the trick to replacing it without getting LHM everywhere? Does the system need de-pressurising for this?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:15 am

are you sure its the pump and not the regulator bleed valve ball bearing just needs re/seating,

regards malcolm

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:20 am

I have to admit, I don't know how you would tell the difference, and I was the one who suggested the pump might be at fault. Apparently the steering doesn't feel notchy, and the assistance is always present. If it is the pump, then take care with the main LHM feed from the tank, as the pipe may be a little weak after all this time (although perhaps better to find any likely failure points now rather than on a journey?) It may be better to remove the belt and high pressure outlet pipes first (6.35mm seal needed), remove the pump and lift it higher than the LHM tank before removing the feed pipe, to minimise spillage of fluid.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:33 am

Nor do I. Car is slow to rise (very slow if I don't raise the revs) though the steering does feel consistent.

Post by **Tim Leech** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:47 am

I would depressurise to be safe, thankfully access is quite easy on the earlier 1.9D so shoudl be too difficult. May be worth changing the LHM at the same time and maybe a new belt?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:13 pm

i would think if the steering is good/ok it is not the pump at fault,

if the pump was slow/lazy the steering would suffer,

it might be easier to remove the bleed valve from the regulator with tray under to catch the ball bearing,

then i understad people (as i have not tried this as yet )place the bearing back in the regulator and give it a sharp blow useing a copper drift and hammer,

then re/fit the bleed valve bolt,

regards malcolm

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:40 pm

Hmmm. I've not really done anything with the regulator at all. Is any of this in the Book of Lies?

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:38 am

No it's not in Haynes but on this Forum. Do a search on Jeremy's posts, I seem to remember him posting this on a fair few occasions.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:02 pm

Hmmm. Full marks to Citronut for this one. We changed the pump as I had a spare. A very slight improvement in that the tick every couple of seconds is much shorter now! Guess the next plan is to try and locate a suitable drift to give the ball bearing a smack. How much of a smack does it need?

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:51 am

a sharp tap with a small hammer, not a big whack with a sledge hammer is all it needs. Do make sure the punch you use is brass or copper though (or any soft metal) since you really don't want to put a flat spot on the bearing..

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:27 am

Just one tap is important though, any more will cause leaks through multiple seating.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:39 am

Thanks chaps. I've got lots of copper pipe sitting around after we decommissioned our heating system. Wonder if I can make a drift...

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:42 pm

Just as an aside, have you checked the lhm? It might be one of the issues that is causing the higher than normal clicking sound if its really old as the viscocity disappears with age, so it'll be much thinner & therefore the pump has to work harder to ensure the pressures are what they are supposed to be.

It probably is what has already been suggested, but i'd always do a proper lhm change for hydraflush, has been known to cure groany struts, tired steering & make the brakes razor sharp again & give the suspension a smoother ride as it cleans out all the crap in the system thats been clogging up the important bits.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:21 pm

I haven't changed the fluid yet. The existing fluid is nicely bright green, but then I've probably put at least 2 litres of fresh fluid in it since I got it.

The exact symptoms are quick tick rate (constant on tickover) and slow to rise unless revs are raised. I do wonder if the tickover is a bit low. Hasn't got a rev counter but it feels a touch low.

Post by **Defender110** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:44 pm

MULLEY wrote: It probably is what has already been suggested, but i'd always do a proper lhm change for hydraflush, has been known to cure groany struts, tired steering & make the brakes razor sharp again & give the suspension a smoother ride as it cleans out all the crap in the system thats been clogging up the important bits.

Matthew is hydraflush really this magic? Could many of the improvements be down to lack of leaked gas in the system?