rust treatment

Nat · Post by **Nat** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:40 pm

what do people do to treat and protect from rust?

I'm in the process of treating the re-sub frame for rust but wasn't sure how much time I need to spend sanding down the rust to get it back to metal before applying some sort of protective coating, and what coating I should use...

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:57 pm

Depends how bad it is.

I've only ever used a mix of old gearbox oil with a splash of diesel to keep the dreaded tin worm at bay.

Post by **Tim Leech** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:09 pm

I use kurust and find it to be quite good, if a bit runny/messy

Post by **Defender110** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 5:29 pm

Roverman wrote:I use kurust and find it to be quite good, if a bit runny/messy

I use Kurust too and it is an excellent rust converter but does need overcoating which I usually do with brush zinc primer before a coat of black or clear waxoil depending wear I've used it. The rust will then remain at bay.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 6:43 pm

For cavities, I use Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 wax. Comes in a HUGE aerosol complete with a plastic tube to get into tricky areas. Great for doing things like the A posts and any box sections.

Bilt Hamber also do a rust converter, though I've had success with Kurust too. Have never found an underseal I'm happy with though, so welcome any suggestions!

Post by **Defender110** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:05 pm

Yes I've used Bilt Hamber products which are excellent as is Dinitrol but not readily available from my local factors.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:40 pm

Whats rust?

Seriously not an issue for me unless we were living with an ocean view. And before anyone thinks you must live in a drive enviroment then well not at all it actualy has a heavier rainfall where I am than it does in the UK.

I guess the fact we do not salt our roads helps!

On saying that the UK import TXD I have now has spent 16 years in this country and yes does show more rust signs than its comades from Auckalnd (where it lived) and Christchurch where the other hailed from. South Island cars are reportedly the less rusty for some reason.

Trouble is the traditional rust remerdy or prevention I was used to with waxoyl and alike are not avialable here.

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:55 pm

Vactan. It's used by a lot 'in the trade'.

http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan.html

Paul296 · Post by **Paul296** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:37 pm

Defender110 wrote:
Roverman wrote:I use kurust and find it to be quite good, if a bit runny/messy
I use Kurust too and it is an excellent rust converter but does need overcoating which I usually do with brush zinc primer before a coat of black or clear waxoil depending wear I've used it. The rust will then remain at bay.

Snap! I've never tried anything else as that combination works so well. The only problem with Kurust is that it glues its own lid on so I always transfer the contents of a new bottle to a jam jar.

mds141 · Post by **mds141** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 4:23 pm

Re-use old engine oil with a pared down paint brush. Works wonders at keeping rust at bay. Bit messy though.

citsncycles · Post by **citsncycles** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:17 pm

For rust prevention, I usually find that for the front of the car, the engine does it quite well on its own. For the rest, a light coat of underseal annually on the bits I can see unless it's wheelarches, where I use stonechip, with well heated waxoil in the bits I can't.

For cure, powered wire brush followed by either Kurust (or similar), rust preventative primer, top coat, when as above, unless it ends up thin or holed, when the whole corroded area get cur out and nice new metal welded in, painted etc.

scooters · Post by **scooters** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:22 pm

Philip Chidlow wrote:Vactan. It's used by a lot 'in the trade'.

http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan.html

Vactan is the stuff - best rust killer I have come across at the price - it's supplied by the folk who make Kurust and some other branded products - the difference being that it is about 5 times stronger - it also primes the surface for painting - you can order it on ebay.

I use dinitrol for rust proofing wax and Car Plan underseal for protection although only when all the rust has been killed