front disc removal

jim · Post by **jim** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:21 pm

Hi,

I am trying to remove the front discs on my 1988 bx.

These are proving to be amazingly stubborn.

I have now completely removed the hub on one side, and, having soaked everything relevant in plus-gas, have tried drifting the hub out of the disc, using a 10lb hammer and piece of scaffold tube, but with no success whatsoever.

I am going to apply heat this afternoon, and have another go, but I don't hold out any great hopes.

The only other things I can think of are to

a) take it to the local engineering co. and see if they can press it off, or

b) cut it off with my angle grinder.

Any ideas would be most welcome!

Regards Jim

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:32 pm

It's probably a stupid question but have you removed the securing screw? Perhaps it's covered in grease and you haven't noticed it? I've never had trouble removing one, in fact they're normally quite loose!

Discoil · Post by **Discoil** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:45 pm

Screws removed , pads out and job done

Unless yours is something special !

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:52 pm

I have known them be stuck on with rust, but a good clout with t'ammer shifts em

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:13 pm

I hve a large hub puller that works well for this.

But I was beaten once, on a Mondeo a few ago.

Couldn't shift the thing, though I had a big hammer.

Called my friend round (he is a real mechanic) and he had the disk off with a few well aimed heavy blows.

I haven't the skill or confidence to make such large hammer swings under a vehicle.

Mike

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:23 pm

I've come across one that couldn't be shifted by hammer blows (not on a BX). It needed a slot cutting in it with an angle grinder and then splitting in half with a chisel to remove it!

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 3:25 am

When I bought my present BX in 2004 it had only done about 45k miles and had its original discs. In 2006 I decided to change the discs and I had the same problem as Jim. Both sides were difficult, offside far more difficult than nearside.

I never took off the hub, I just kebt smashing at the disc with a big hammer. I cannot remember how long (it could have been 10 mins or an hour), it seemed a long time, but eventually it came off. I expected the disc to shatter, I was hitting it that hard.

tim · Post by **tim** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:43 pm

I am going to change the discs on my 92 TXD soon, and I just know that the securing screws are going to shear off. Can anyone let me know the thread pitch and size so I can buy an appropriate tap before I start.......

Post by **Defender110** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:21 pm

tim wrote:I am going to change the discs on my 92 TXD soon, and I just know that the securing screws are going to shear off. Can anyone let me know the thread pitch and size so I can buy an appropriate tap before I start.......

If they do I wouldnt bother replacing them, they are only a retainer whilst you put your wheel back on so can easily be managed without, it is the wheel bolts that hold it firm.

bx petrol auto saloon · Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:27 pm

Dear Jim.
To assist the screws to undo, just put a short metal drift, the size of the
screw head onto the head of the screw, and smack it with a metal 2lb
hammer hard, usually loosens them enough to get some penatrating oil
onto the threads to be able to undo them.
Solid discs should come off with a few good smacks with a lump
hammer, vented discs can be a bit more stubborn, because they flex
when being hit. tie a piece of strong nylon twine through the vents in the
disc to the front strut and smack it with a sledge hammer.
BUT ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GOOGLES TO AVOID A BIT OF SHATTERED
DISC HEADING TOWARDS YOUR EYES.
Hope this helps in the future too.
Vince.

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:54 pm

Or, (securely) jack the front of the car up off the floor with wheels removed. Start engine, engage 3rd gear, get hubs spinning, floor throttle until it's near it's max speed in that gear and jump on the brake pedal while still applying throttle.
I've never had one that hard to remove before though.

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:21 pm

Kitch wrote:Or, (securely) jack the front of the car up off the floor with wheels removed. Start engine, engage 3rd gear, get hubs spinning, floor throttle until it's near it's max speed in that gear and jump on the brake pedal while still applying throttle.
I've never had one that hard to remove before though.

sounds a good idea, wish I had thought of that when I changed mine

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:47 pm

bx petrol auto saloon wrote: tie a piece of strong nylon twine through the vents in the disc .

The only discs that are vented are 16V, of which type this is not...

jim · Post by **jim** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:34 pm

Ok, finally got it sorted.

Several severe blows from a 10lb club hammer, delivered to the protuding rim of the hub, finally did the job.

I had to completely remove the hubs from the car, and support the disc on my workmate while inflicting the grief.

The discs and hub had rusted together, just where the rim fits snugly around the disc.

I cleaned all the rust off, and applied some copper grease, which will hopefully prevent a repeat occurrence, although it is unlikely I will have the car in another twenty years time.

I was taught at school that rust has no tensile strength what so ever,
however the performance over getting these discs off would appear to give the lie that particular gem.

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:40 pm

jim wrote: I was taught at school that rust has no tensile strength what so ever,

That's technically correct, it's more about the expansion of the base metal creating interference in the fit of the components... or in laymans terms "swelling & gripping" oooh errrr

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