steering rack gaitor / boot

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:15 pm

Hi

My TD just failed the MOT on FDV leak, indicator not working and offside steering rack gaitor split...

Got a new FDV so that shouldn't be a problem..
Haven't changed a rack boot before and looking through past posts it looks like the rubber ones are the ones to get as they're easier to fit...

anyone bought one of these from eBay and know if they're any good / easy to fit?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:09 pm

at least it failed on the easy one to do, unlike the N/S one which definetly requires a rubber gaitor, as it has to be streached over a spigot and the plastic one dont streach at all,

regards malcolm

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:03 pm

Ok, thanks.. so maybe I should get the genuine plastic one for the easy side for long life and deal with the otherside when it needs it..

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:25 pm

Bother. This job badly needs doing on the RD. There's not much gaiter left!

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 6:54 pm

Took a chance on the weather and did my MOT jobs yesterday -

Rack boot was pretty easy, apart from the main dealer supplying the wrong side! I'd bought the eBay pack just incase though.... I'm learning!

This is the way I did it for the offside (probably not too different for the otherside but you have to stretch the boot to fit and need to get the larger end on first, AFAIK)

1. Loosen wheel bolts, car on stands and wheel off.

2. Undo track rod end nut and knock out from hub.

3. Using 13mm and 19mm spanners hold inner joint and loosen locknut clockwise.

4. Mark / remember where the locknut was so your tracking's not too far out when you put it back together!

5. Remove track rod end and locknut.

6. Get under car and unclip the weird Citroen metal clip or cable tie on the inner end of the boot and pull boot off.

7. Put cable tie around new boot, not too tight but not loose enough to fall off and slide new boot on.

8. Tighten cable tie as tight as you can with pliers..

9. Check that the boot folds up neatly when moving the steering about and reassemble..

9. Good idea to use a new nylock on the track rod end to hub connection if you've got one.

10. Get tracking checked if you're not 100% you measure the locknut position on the track rod.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:26 pm

good to here you have done it, but i would do 3 before 2, or at least crack off the lock nut at 3,

then i make sure the lock nut staysas close to were it started as possible,
once the track rod is removed mesure from the outside face of the nut to the centre of the back/bottom of the swivle joint body,
this should make sure the tracking is near enough were it was before you started,

regards malcolm

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 3:05 am

FWIW when I did the nearside (yes, the ram spigot does give you cause to swear!) I did not need to disconnect the track rod from the rack and therefore interfere with tracking adjustment. Given that I used a rubber Xantia gaiter I just threaded the track rod through the gaiter from the uncoupled ball joint and then levered it on over the obstructions at the end of the rack.

Initial difficulties were encountered but when I developed the technique of first pre-stretching the gaiter on that plastic cone thing you use for stretchy CV boots the operation went well. The gaiter quickly reforms to its original size while fitting even if you leave it up the cone for hours to win more time.