suspension and brake confusion

Post by **Defender110** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:50 pm

Dickster665 wrote:With the method outlined by Philhod doesn't some of the antique fluid that has been sitting unchanged in rear brake dead legs end up in the fluid reservoir that you have recently refreshed with new LHM?

I suppose if you did a proper LHM change first getting rid of all the old LHM this would then be good practice as a periodic brake bleed to ensure no trapped nitrogen in the brake system from leaking spheres. In fact the more I think about it the more I like it.

Not sure about the 3x2 flag though. i'll opt for some bricks 2 at atime

Nat · Post by **Nat** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:06 pm

citronut wrote:
Nat wrote: Maybe I should have got round to welding up the jacking points earlier they got through last year so assumed they'd be ok again hahaha, oh well. just a little welding to do.
the answer to this would have bin never use factory jacking points to lift the car

or let micky moooouse tyre shops just blindly sling a jack under the car not knowing what they are jacking on

regards malcolm

so where do you jack from? I have to admit that I don't use the jacking points because there isn't much left to jack form anyway so I don't trust them any more (probably why they failed it...). but I am curious that its normal to avoid using them. it seems odd in my mind to avoid using the points designed for jacking... obviously it has caused the corrosion protection to crack and let in moisture etc but where would be better?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:58 pm

i never jack mine or a customers car on any part of the bodyshell,

i only jack on the sub frame's,

if i realy cant get a jack under the sub frames if the suspension is right down,

i use a geared sccisor jack with a block of wood on the strongest bit i can get at, just till i can get the trolley jack under,

regards malcolm

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:55 pm

Based on 8 years with the same BX, I haven't got any visible corrosion around the jacking points, but I've only ever used the factory jack on them. This does not seem to distort the lip at all, although after having a wheel changed once they used a trolley jack on the sill lip elsewhere, opening up the seam and bending the lip. (I now no longer let anyone else jack up the car, and repaired the seam by filling with Tigerseal, bending back to shape and undersealing).

If I'm using a trolley jack I use the rear of the front subframe, or the rear subframe just inboard of the rear end of the sills. Or a bottle jack under the rear axle tube.

Nat · Post by **Nat** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:02 pm

I'll keep that in mind for future then, seems sensible now you point it out, the sub frame is some what stronger.

citsncycles · Post by **citsncycles** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:58 pm

or let micky moooouse tyre shops just blindly sling a jack under the car not knowing what they are jacking on

I stopped using the one local place after they picked up my Wartburg by the sills on the lift, straining all the body to chassis mounting points! Luckily the the one I use now (Cam Tyres for those in the area) are very good, asking me where I want them to jack the car up, and using a torque wrench to do the wheel nuts up instead of a gun. They're also happy for me to supply tyres for them to fit if I manage to get them at a good price.