New GTi progress report!

[maxgreenwood]

So after buying my new GTi, (pics in the gallery) I'm enjoying it , but a couple more issues to sort, namely it needing at least one new rear arm bearing and a bit of fettling on the engine running side of things. I have it booked in with Mark Lightfoot nr Nottingham on Tuesday for the rear arm bearing(s). I've had it looked over by a Cit garage in Dublin, very good car they say, little or no rust. They looked at the ecu and repaired the MAP sensor, which has improved things a little, but it still has jerkiness in engine running when around zero to light throttle.
I've done a bit of research on this engine and will look at functioning of the air flow meter, throttle switch sensor and engine temp sensor where I can check resistances with a multi-meter.
The fault is intermittent. Today for a while it was fine.
My uncle ex cit mechanic had a drive and said it felt like an air inlet/vacuum issue so it would be good to check all that- I've heard of smoke tests, seeing if any hoses are sucking in air where they shouldn't be.
It also displays symptoms of lights / dash illumination flickering unevenly, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was electrical. I guess that calls for a methodical check for any bad/corroded connections.
The garage changed the plugs and I fitted Magnecore HT leads which do make a difference to the performance.
The engine also reads quite hot, 95 on the move and above 110 in traffic. The seller told me he'd heard this is common on this engine but I'd like to be sure. Might be worth fitting a fan switch which kicks in earlier especially for summer.
So I'm hopeful I may be able to sort these things with a little patience but all in all I am enjoying it. It is the most relaxing Bx I've owned to drive with good low down power.

[Philip Chidlow]

Re: Temperature... 95 seems too high. 110 is.
Could be sensor, thermostat, poor coolant circulation or indeed gauge, but please get it checked. Didn't take long to cook my GTi in heavy traffic a few months ago .

[bx petrol auto saloon]

Dear Max.
Try spraying carburetter cleaner onto the inlet manifold gasket and it,s
bolt heads, when the engine is running at tickover, if the inlet manifold
gasket has gone, the engine rev,s will speed up as you are spraying it,
if it is leaking good too to do the same around any of the inlet
parts on the engine like the hoses too.
It is a good place to start at.
All the best Max
Vince.

[maxgreenwood]

Thanks Vince the carb cleaner is a good tip i'll try that.

Phil, i wasn't fully aware of that happening to your GTi, although now you mention it it does ring a bell. Was it in France or something? Was it fixable?

I might get the garage on Tuesday then to check some stuff, maybe backflush the rad, although it does look newish. Can the waterpump become weak? Is there a safe system flush to do?

The cambelt was done 14k ago around 2004. I was figuring it should be ok for a while. I can't really afford to get all that done as well. I'll get them to have a look at it's condition.

[MULLEY]

Erm, i'd get the cambelt done asap, its 8years old Regardless of mileage & how it looks, its not worth taking the risk, if it snaps the engine will cost a lot to get fixed & certainly a lot more than a cambelt costs.

[Tim Leech]

Erm, i'd get the cambelt done asap, its 8years old Regardless of mileage & how it looks, its not worth taking the risk, if it snaps the engine will cost a lot to get fixed & certainly a lot more than a cambelt costs.

Seconded!

[Dollywobbler]

I'm not really a gambling man, but as long as there's no oil leaking onto the belt, I'd chance it for a little longer. It would be on my to do list, but not on the immediate list. If the car had been owned by someone who thrashed it around all the time, I'd get on it, but it doesn't look like that sort of a car.

I absolve myself of all responsibility if it does snap though...

[Mothman]

Every new BX ive had ive sorted the cambelt, even Sophie, just in case.

Andy

[maxgreenwood]

It's definitely on my to do list but it might just be too painful at the moment shelling out even more money on a new purchase. I'll see how much Mark Lightfoot wants for the job on Tuesday, and depending whether it's 1 or 2 rear arm bearings... Cam belt prob priority really.

[Philip Chidlow]

Hi Max. In response to your earlier comment: It wasn't fixable and it was tipped over the edge after two and half hours stuck in a slow moving traffic jam on the M25.

I would get the cam belt done. Not too tricky a job with the 8v.

[MULLEY]

No point in doing the other work if the belt snaps, then its all been for nothing. Your car & its upto you, just our advice. Still interested in how you get on with getting your car sorted though, even if its in a different order to our suggestions.

[maxgreenwood]

It sounds like the main previous owner - the last only had it a few months - was a careful driver doing very few local journeys.

And i just found today the very car features on the orginal BXClub home page in the gallery - John's Aggetts's old car - click on 'John'.. http://www.bxclub.co.uk/cars/
If anyone knows him it would be great to drop him a line. Apparently he traded it in at a Mitsubishi garage a few months ago for £600 AFAIK.

It would be great if i could get the cambelt done while in the UK as well as it's a damn sight cheaper than Ire. I just don't think i've got the money at the moment. I'll definitely get it done within 3-4 months if not.

Phil, i've tried the heater funnelling some engine heat out the driver's window when stuck in traffic which seems to help. When i say '95' and '110' it's pretty difficult to tell whats what on that guage. It's not reaching the red zone, which by my estimation seems to be 115. If the beginning of the red zone is 110 then the maximum i'm getting in traffic would be 105 i guess which is better, But yes, hotter than i think is healthy.

[mat_fenwick]

Out of interest what would the price be for a cambelt change over there? It's a less work than an engine swap if you get my drift...

I would suggest that any significant variation in temperature means that something isn't right with the cooling system - if you think about it the system (when new) must have enough cooling capacity to keep the engine from overheating when fully laden, crawling along on a hot summer's day. So most of the time the thermostat will not be fully open but be restricting flow to keep the engine at optimum temperature.

For what it's worth my (diesel) BX gauge needle sits in the vertical position at all times, whatever temperature that corresponds to, but the few petrol BXs I've driven with gauges sit slightly to the right of that.

Does the fan kick in at all when in traffic? I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the switching temperature can increase as the switch gets older, but have never come across this in practice - they've either seemed to work OK or not at all. If the heater trick seems to reduce the temperature that would suggest that circulation (pump) is OK, but that the heat isn't being removed efficiently by the radiator for whatever reason (blockage, fan not running or coming on too late).

Think I have a spare AFM somewhere, taken off a sweet running engine if the problem does prove to be that.

[maxgreenwood]

Well, the news is, i had to get both rear arm bearings replaced.

But what a difference! It has transformed the car. I mean i knew it would, but it is nice now i have the solidity of a well cared for low mileage one with the magic carpet working as it should. It is now by far the best BX i've had. Running on 16 spheres, it's floating along.

Wierdly the odd occasional misfire thing has become increasingly intermittent - in the right direction, which is good. Mark Lightfoot in Ilkeston who did the rear arm bearings said he didn't notice it on the test drive, but i think that's 'cos the engine must have been cold and it doesn't happen then. Just while warming up , settles down when up to temp. But i plan to look into that further, not bothering me too much at the moment.

Mark said the car is in remarkably good condition - like a 4-5 year old car. Happy days.

The cambelt will have to wait, might tackle it myself or with help. I know it should be done. Knowing the details Mark said not to lose too much sleep over it, but i understand it is a risk. I think they should be done every 5 years, so ASAP.

Mat,

Does the fan kick in at all when in traffic?

Yes it does , i'd say the cooling system is just a bit sluggish to respond, so a coolant change and rad backflush / new thermo are probably in order definitely before spring. Mark said the GTi's were prone to rads clogging. He reckoned i could fit a 2nd fan as well as it only has one, and that should be a pretty easy mod.

Out of interest what would the price be for a cambelt change over there?

The 16TZS Cambelt and waterpump cost me €380
I know i know, and Ireland prices sound crazy to you guys, but it's an exchange thing, a eurozone thing, but mainly cos everything in Ireland is inflated. Wages match, but not by quite the same amount. Anyway i'm happy jobs are cheaper in the UK and i can avail of them when i can.

On the ferry back to Ireland tomorrow, hopefully we'll make it safe and sound and not be beaten by galeforce winds or any nasty mechanical surprises.

[Jayboy]

€380 for cambelt and pump on a 16? Jeez....

My guy would charge me about £100.