Hub carrier in process

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rmattila
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Hub carrier in process

Post by rmattila »

Can't wait till morning to see what comes out..

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-17 C outside, but the water is almost scalding with 20 amps going through.
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rmattila
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Post by rmattila »

After process:

Image

Next step: painting & installation of new bearings.
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Post by Kitch »

Interesting! Can't help thinking sand blasting it would have worked better though?
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Post by rmattila »

I don't think it would be possible to obtain a much better result by any method: all rust was boiled off, and all that was left was a gentle brushing to remove the loose deposits of de-rusted iron and the chips of paint that had had rust under it. In addition, the warm water helps to remove all other impurities such as dirt and grease. And all this while you just wait..
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Post by Defender110 »

rmattila wrote:I don't think it would be possible to obtain a much better result by any method: all rust was boiled off, and all that was left was a gentle brushing to remove the loose deposits of de-rusted iron and the chips of paint that had had rust under it. In addition, the warm water helps to remove all other impurities such as dirt and grease. And all this while you just wait..
I don't think you can argue against that! Obviously a job to be done overnight whilst sleeping to stop you hovering over the pot like an expectant father :lol:
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Post by MULLEY »

I'm surprised that you havent built yourself an ultrasonic cleaner, that would do an even better job, but i still like your homemade way of cleaning, improvisation at its best :D
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Post by mat_fenwick »

An ultrasonic cleaner wouldn't remove the rust though, apart from loose flakes. I'm assuming this is reverse electrolysis using a weak alkali solution?

Wish I had a bucket large enough for an entire car!
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Post by rmattila »

I do have an ultrasonic cleaner (the blue object vaguely visible in the background of the "before pic"):

Image

which is OK for post-processing smaller parts after electrolysis, but it doesn't do good job as removing rust/dirt without the electrolysis first. And for larger parts, brushing after the 'lysis is not too much work.

Just a couple of handfuls of washing soda is enough to turn a bucket of water into a good electrolyte, and depending on the batch size, either the 24 V start booster or the welding inverter will make a good DC source. Due to the heavy hydrogen buildup the process must be done outdoors, but it's not a problem, since with 20 - 100 amps the water keeps hot even in winter (it's -23 C now and I've got another batch bubbling overnight).
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1992 TZD Turbo Estate - SORN
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired - SORN
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1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
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Post by MULLEY »

You learn something new every day, i've had some reasonable results with an ultrasonic cleaner just using some washing up liquid in tap water, it managed to clean up quite a bit of rust on some bolts that appeared on the face of it to be totally knackered. Perhaps like you say, they work better on smaller parts rather than the larger ones? I'm going to buy some seaclean which apparently can clean rust, so will report back with some findings.
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1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

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Post by Kitch »

rmattila wrote:I don't think it would be possible to obtain a much better result by any method: all rust was boiled off, and all that was left was a gentle brushing to remove the loose deposits of de-rusted iron and the chips of paint that had had rust under it. In addition, the warm water helps to remove all other impurities such as dirt and grease. And all this while you just wait..
I've sandblasted a couple of uprights recently at work - they came out silver for a start. Completely removes everything!

The idea of being able to set it up and then fuck off is hugely appealing though :lol:
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