Building oil pressure prior to starting the engine
Building oil pressure prior to starting the engine
Has anybody ever thought of fitting a 12 v oil pump at a suitable location so that it could be switched on, allowed to build the sufficient pressure and establish a good circulation, and only then start the engine?
I get this thought every winter, but have so far not gotten any further with it.
I get this thought every winter, but have so far not gotten any further with it.
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At -35 deg C, even quality oils tend to be somewhat suboptimal. And anyway, in an older engine it may take 20 - 30 s even in warm conditions to get the circulation going.JayW wrote:As it would need to be connected to the oil pickup it sounds quite impractical. I'd just go for quality oil instead
A penetration to the sump as the suction line, then the pump, and the outlet into a suitable place such as the oil pressure sensor hole doesn't sound excessively impractical to me.
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- mat_fenwick
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Well, I personally think it's a 'feel good' car so it would fit pretty well then?mat_fenwick wrote:I think you'd have to weigh up what the benefits would be, the XUD isn't particularly know for oil pressure related problems and can do massive mileages as standard. I personally think it'd be more of a 'feel good' modification rather than offering a useful improvement.
The problem is, the block heater does a good job heating the waterways, but as the oil in the sump is cold, it takes quite long for the circulation to start. In a recent test, I think the best 0W oils found their way to the camshaft in 30 s or so. If this 30 s pain per start could be eliminated, there might be some possibilitied to further extend the already remarkable life span of the XUD.
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- mat_fenwick
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How about a cheap and cheerful mod then - fit a kettle element in the sump. If you could make the connections waterproof, and fit a detachable connector somewhere accessible then that should heat the oil reasonably quickly. A timer should stop it from overheating.
The only danger is that with no stirring, the oil make get very hot close to the element and break down chemically.
The only danger is that with no stirring, the oil make get very hot close to the element and break down chemically.
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Why not just fit a kenlow hot start and have the engine up to working temp before starting + you can set it to turn your heater fan on to pre- warm the cabin. I know it doesn't wam the oil but will help reduce cold engine wear considerably.
I have one in my garage that I used to have on my Land Rover 90, fantastic bit of kit for winter.
I have one in my garage that I used to have on my Land Rover 90, fantastic bit of kit for winter.
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I think trying to fix a problem that isn't there is a bit of a waste of time. Even high performance engines don't have anything like that, and the XUD is about as far removed from a high performance engine as is possible without getting into plants buildings.
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- mat_fenwick
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They used to sell pressure accumulators to the oil pressure switch union, with a solenoid valve to store the 0,5 l or so of oil in correct pressure for the next start, but I have not seem them for a while. Even though running 30 s without oil won`t do much damage to the engine in the short run, I would still like the idea of first building the pressure and only then putting the steel to move..
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..but on the other hand, low-performance naval diesels that are designed for long-lasting service, do..Kitch wrote:I think trying to fix a problem that isn't there is a bit of a waste of time. Even high performance engines don't have anything like that, and the XUD is about as far removed from a high performance engine as is possible without getting into plants buildings.
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The easiest way to get a little oil pressure before the engine starts is to crank it for a few seconds without waiting for the heater plugs, I had a Diesel fitter mate who did not like the way my BX used to start straight off, he liked the idea of pumping a little oil around before it fired.
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Interesting topic.
I always check the one way valve in the oil filter before fitting.
I blow and suck gently into the centre threaded hole to test.
"No comments"
I have known filters to fail this test on occasions.
If the valve is slightly leaky, then the oil will run back into the sump overnight.
Try the test again with a new filter after testing the valve.
I always check the one way valve in the oil filter before fitting.
I blow and suck gently into the centre threaded hole to test.
"No comments"
I have known filters to fail this test on occasions.
If the valve is slightly leaky, then the oil will run back into the sump overnight.
Try the test again with a new filter after testing the valve.